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Gen 3 Wall Connector
- Thread starter SpiceWare
- Start date
On the torque screwdriver question, this is the one i got for this install and it is awesome. The terminals on the Gen 3 are hex (allen) bits, and the Gen 3 comes with the proper bit, which fits directly into this screwdriver. FWIW, 50 inch-lbs is WAY tighter than i could get to with a regular screwdriver, even cranking down on it. With the T-handle, 50 in-lbs is no problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VK2RHTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VK2RHTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There was a thread on Thursday where people bought them before they went out of stock that afternoon.
Sign up for the notifications and check your email each day mid morning West Coast time.
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TT97
Active Member
Also, if you use Chrome, download the "Page Monitor" extension. You can have the extension monitor the page and will alert you if the page changes. I have used this method to get several items off their shop page as many times the item is out of stock again by the time you get the notification email. (I also used this to get notification I could order my 3 before getting the email I was up).
willow_hiller
Well-Known Member
For those who disliked the Gen 3 Wall Connector for any number of reasons, the Gen 2 is back in stock in the Tesla shop in limited quantities: Gloss Black Wall Connector - Gen 2
Greg - the only reason to load share in this scenario would be to limit max load on your main panel. Is that your intent? I'd assume that if you have a 100A subpanel that you have a 200A main. Load sharing is typically done for multiple chargers on a 100A subpanel, since you're already over the 80A continuous limit with two connectors. Do you know your max load on your main panel aside from the chargers? Mine at peak was under 50A (8 tons of AC - you can get your max from your power company). If your max plus 96A is less than 80% of your main panel rating, set both chargers for 60A breaker/48A continuous, and let them both run wide open at 48A (no load sharing between the two).
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To anyone interested, my installation of 2 gen3 WCs included splitting out to a 100A subpanel, since main was full, then 60A of those 100A was wired to a 2nd subpanel into garage with ~100ft conduit, then each WC was put on its own breaker.
Since load sharing is not yet on, the electrician added a temp metal "switch thingy", which mechanically turns off one of the breakers if you turn on the other one.
This is so that you don't put 120A (96A continuos) load on the 60A line while the load sharing is off. Passed city inspection.
Pic of garage subpanel:
Btw, anyone contemplating additional/bigger circuits for extra juice - I don't believe you'll ever need it. Was in the same boat once.
I've been charging my model 3 on 40A (32A) for 1.5 years and this was more then enough. Always charges fully overnight and never ran out of juice during the day.
Even with multiple cars, you'll never discharge all of them to 0 juice at the same time. Family trip will use one car, otherwise you just need to top up for daily commute, this is not much demand and for me 60A will be an overkill for 2 cars, I'm sure.
Since load sharing is not yet on, the electrician added a temp metal "switch thingy", which mechanically turns off one of the breakers if you turn on the other one.
This is so that you don't put 120A (96A continuos) load on the 60A line while the load sharing is off. Passed city inspection.
Pic of garage subpanel:
Btw, anyone contemplating additional/bigger circuits for extra juice - I don't believe you'll ever need it. Was in the same boat once.
I've been charging my model 3 on 40A (32A) for 1.5 years and this was more then enough. Always charges fully overnight and never ran out of juice during the day.
Even with multiple cars, you'll never discharge all of them to 0 juice at the same time. Family trip will use one car, otherwise you just need to top up for daily commute, this is not much demand and for me 60A will be an overkill for 2 cars, I'm sure.
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So we are replacing three worn out Gen 2 units with three new Gen 3 units at a destination charging setup I help manage. The current arraignment is nice and clean, each unit was on their own 100amp breakers/circuits, & set to 80amp output. No load sharing.
Obviously the new V3 HPWC are limited to 60/48amp, so my question is: do I need to downgrade the circuit breakers? The wiring is still clearly fine for the new lower loads but the breakers are still 100amp in the panel. I'd prefer to just pull the old HPWC off the posts and swap in the new ones and call it a day.
Obviously the new V3 HPWC are limited to 60/48amp, so my question is: do I need to downgrade the circuit breakers? The wiring is still clearly fine for the new lower loads but the breakers are still 100amp in the panel. I'd prefer to just pull the old HPWC off the posts and swap in the new ones and call it a day.
Since your wire is setup for 100amps, you should not have to. If for some reason the Gen 3 draws more than 48amps its internal breaker will Disconnect.
Mokuzai
Member
It's my understanding that you do want to change those breakers to 60amps. You can oversize wire but not your breaker.
Incorrect, the 60amp or 100amp is to protect your home or the 200-400amp service, not to protect the equipment. The wall connector has its own protection.
Think it of this way. You have 120 outlet with 20A breaker. You can plug an iPhone or a portable heater. It doesn’t matter what they draw.
1amp or 18amp, you would not swap breaker if you dedicated that outlet to a iPhone.
1amp or 18amp, you would not swap breaker if you dedicated that outlet to a iPhone.
You can't put a 30a breaker on the circuit with a 20a outlet even if the wire supports it. The gen3 units are essentially a 60a outlet.
The breaker size is irrelevant, as long as it can support the 48amp equipment. 60 or 100 amp doesn’t matter. Is a overkill, but is already installed, so no need to downgrade.
here another way to look at it.
old v2 wall connector had the option to do 80 amp, if a dual charger model S or X. Now let’s say you have a second vehicle, model 3 it only going to use 48amp. So you would not change the amp breaker very time you charge a model 3, then go back to model S.
here another way to look at it.
old v2 wall connector had the option to do 80 amp, if a dual charger model S or X. Now let’s say you have a second vehicle, model 3 it only going to use 48amp. So you would not change the amp breaker very time you charge a model 3, then go back to model S.
You need to swap out the breakers according to code. The 60A breaker is sized to protect the conductors (you're fine here) and according to the listing for the equipment (wall connector). The WC installation instructions make no mention of OCPD, only GFCI. You may also have trouble getting the #3 wire into the new WCs, which have a max wire size of #4 (according to spec). Be wary of analogies to 15/20A receptacles when talking about direct-wire equipment - normal plugs in a house are generally the exception to the rule in the rest of the NEC.
NEC 210.20: Overcurrent Protection. Branch-circuit conductors and equipment shall be protected by overcurrent protective devices that have a rating or setting that complies with 210.20(A) through (D).
(C) Equipment. The rating or setting of the overcurrent protective device shall not exceed that specified in the applicable articles referenced in Table 240.3 for equipment.
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This is nonsense. Look at the code reference above. OCPDs are to protect the conductors AND the equipment. Please stop dispensing advice on electrical wiring unless you can cite code references to back it up. This is no-bullshit stuff, getting it wrong can burn down houses/buildings and kill people.
As I said above, 15/20A branch circuits for plugs in residential setting are generally the exception to the rule. Many exceptions are made to the general rules for these plugs, because they're not intended for continuous use.
Yeah, but the 2nd gen WC is rated up to 80A continuous. The terminals, the internal wiring, everything is rated for 80A.
Again, to the original question, the 100A breakers *must* be switched to 60A breakers. The terminals, spade connectors, internal wiring isn't rated above 48A/60A, and the 60A breaker is for protection of everything inside the WC.
To further drive the point home, here's a standard spec sheet for an A/C condensor (one of the most common direct-wire pieces of equipment in a home). Note the minimum circuit ampacity and max overcurrent protection.
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