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Gen 3 Wall Connector
- Thread starter SpiceWare
- Start date
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
Gen 2 HPWC (High Power Wall Connector) is 80A continuous when connected to a 100A breaker and proper wiring to support that much juice. You may be confusing the HPWC with the 2nd generation charger (device installed in cars to convert AC to DC) installed in the cars which are capable of a max of 72A from a single unit. The Gen 1 chargers used 40A units which could be doubled up for 80A of power delivery to maximize charging speeds when a connector capable of over 40A is used. This is a separate conversation from the HPWC going on here though.
I'd pull the WC off the wall and inspect the wire underneath the terminals. These particular terminals do a great job of spreading the wires when torqued down and only clamping on a few of the individual conductors in a braid, which leads to heat, which leads to thermal expansion and oxidiation, which leads to more heat. Should always use ferrules on the cable ends. Heat generated by copper flowing through the cable is almost never the problem - it's somewhere at a connection.
Thanks for the idea. It seems like a design flaw that they wouldn't have engineered this in such a way that a certified electrician would be able to troubleshoot, nonetheless Tesla's own support team? That said, I feel a lot safer with just going to the Gen2. Can you see any downsides of that model?
Aside from being a little bit more difficult to install and no wifi load sharing (eventually, geez!), there's no issue. I'd still recommend ferrules (as does tesla), but i've never seen an electrician use them. The 3rd gen models are actually easier to see the connection after install, the 2nd gen ones are pretty hidden, but I think the 2nd gen are overall a bit more robust.
here’s what you want to see- all the copper underneath the terminal screw and spreading as little as possible. These were hand crimped ferrules on #6/#10 copper (best I could do without spending hundreds of $$ for a bigger crimper) but they held the wire together a ton better than without when torquing to spec
Yeah I've been shocked (hehe) at how much harder i've been torquing things down (to the correct spec) after getting a torque screwdriver. May want to get or borrow an IR thermometer if you can. Or just swap it out for a 2nd gen
If my breaker box was done by a typical electrician, I can see why people have problems.
Terminals not tightened down. Broken strands in multi-strand wire. Strands loose. Wires not fully under set screw. Overspray in box.
I think the reality is for most cases it doesn’t matter. Power usage is typically pretty low and not for long durations.
Terminals not tightened down. Broken strands in multi-strand wire. Strands loose. Wires not fully under set screw. Overspray in box.
I think the reality is for most cases it doesn’t matter. Power usage is typically pretty low and not for long durations.
My first post on TMC so please forgive any ignorance on my part.
We are new Model X owners and have a V3 Wall Connector installed on a 60 amp circuit. We received the vehicle from telsa in late June and had no issues for several days. On Day 4 of home charging we started getting "charging stopped" notifications and I assumed we had an issue with the car. I played with the settings and discovered I could get the car to charge at 20-25 amps all night without interruption. After many new grey hairs and pages of text messages, I now know that the issue is with the wall connector and overheating. They remotely pushed a firmware update and now it won't even charge at 20amps. The wall connector support team let us know that this is an ongoing issue with the V3 and that they were working on more firmware patches to fix it. Very irritating that we seem to be the R&D team on this. They suggested we use the 110 travel charger while they were sorting it out, I nearly died .
Does anyone have any more info on this issue or are we SOL with our new $$$$ paperweight? Luckily we have a NEMA outlet in another garage but it's very inconvenient AND I had to go buy the adapter.
We are new Model X owners and have a V3 Wall Connector installed on a 60 amp circuit. We received the vehicle from telsa in late June and had no issues for several days. On Day 4 of home charging we started getting "charging stopped" notifications and I assumed we had an issue with the car. I played with the settings and discovered I could get the car to charge at 20-25 amps all night without interruption. After many new grey hairs and pages of text messages, I now know that the issue is with the wall connector and overheating. They remotely pushed a firmware update and now it won't even charge at 20amps. The wall connector support team let us know that this is an ongoing issue with the V3 and that they were working on more firmware patches to fix it. Very irritating that we seem to be the R&D team on this. They suggested we use the 110 travel charger while they were sorting it out, I nearly died .
Does anyone have any more info on this issue or are we SOL with our new $$$$ paperweight? Luckily we have a NEMA outlet in another garage but it's very inconvenient AND I had to go buy the adapter.
Still showing in stock.
Gloss Black Wall Connector - Gen 2
Last time I check Tesla still sells the Gen2 station. It is a mature design and has been generally reliable. See if they will exchange you, or refund your money so you can buy the Gen 2. Make sure it's in stock first.
There are plenty of other options out there too as you can just use the J1772 adapter.
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Couldn't agree more, I have two in my garage as a backup in case my primary stations are offline for some reason.
They also allow me to support two more guests at 40 amps each bringing me up to 6x40A average cars without spending big bucks on six hard wired stations, but that is just because I am a firm believer in overkill!
In my opinion there is less incentive to modify a Gen 3 station. There are plenty of reasonably priced 48 amp J1772 stations on the market and until the Gen 3 feature set catches up with the most advanced there isn't a technical reason to do that either.
The Gen 2 station is an 80 amp capable station for $475 which is a pretty shocking deal and I can see the motive for swapping them over.
As far as moving a Gen 2 cable to a Gen 3 station I would guess that your challenge will at least be strain relief, as the Gen 2 cable is much larger in diameter, and then continue as you work to get the larger gauge wires into the new terminations.
This is a new install. We have two EVs atm, one Tesla and one Honda. So ideally, I want one Tesla connector and one J1772, ideally with intelligent load sharing. Will likely do a 100A subpanel in the Garage, and put the Tesla charger in the garage and the J1772 outside/in the driveway.
Then gen3 WiFi feature set is unimpressive now, but like most things Tesla I expect them to improve dramatically with time... could go with a chargepoint or clipper creek, but they’re pricier and don’t give me a Tesla connector...
Most manufacturers offer a 125 amp breaker option, some even go higher. I have 150 amp breakers going to my garage subpanels.
In your situation it probably makes sense to put in a 125A circuit to the sub instead of 100, and then you can put two 60A breakers in, one per car and not worry about load sharing. That allows you to run the Gen 3 station and a https://evcharging.enelx.com/store/residential/juicebox-48, 48A OpenEVSE or any other number of 48A stations.
That should give you max flexibility for two vehicles over the long haul.
Just need to make sure your main panel stabs are rated for the 125A or 150A breaker, since many aren't.
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