SoundDaTrumpet
Member
In my opinion it is reasonable for what was done. Gathering supplies, truck roll, and labor. 6 hours of labor. $108/hr. Reasonable, no?
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Getting two NEMA 14-50 estimates on Tuesday
- Thread starter pkalhan
- Start date
chronopc
Active Member
It was actually 2 hours of labor since there was only 2 of them. I believe that the parts used cost $100 total. So essentially I paid $275 an hour for labor. I was fine paying it since I do not want to risk getting electrocuted or blowing my fuse box. But I'm pretty sure if I got literally any other type of plug and they didn't think it was for an EV the cost would have been half as much.
SoundDaTrumpet
Member
Definitely rates in SF are higher, I would think it be in the mid-hundreds range, but it sounds like you liked the workmanship of the contractors, and to me that is a big factor. These small jobs seem to have a lot of overhead associated with them. I wouldn't insomuch as say "half" as much. I did get a quote for $300 once, but as jovial was the person over the phone, he never called back even though he lowered it below $300.
chronopc
Active Member
I think you might be right. At the end of the day I'm happy with what I got. I will also chalk it up to supply and demand. The demand for these for the 14-50 has skyrocketed so increase prices makes sense. In the long run I'll be saving a lot on gas so a few extra hundred dollars won't make any difference.
MacGreiner
5YJ
For a small job like this, it's best if you have other stuff you can add to the job to make it worth the time to walk a permit. Someone has to go to the city hall and wait for the permit to be issued. For a tiny job like this, the electricians recommending no permit were just being thoughtful of their customer's costs (IMO).
To those saying that un-permitted work is a liability. For a kitchen/bath remodel? Sure. For a single frigggin' run of 6/3 to an outlet it's a non-issue! Walking the permit easily doubles or triples the labor time.
To those saying that un-permitted work is a liability. For a kitchen/bath remodel? Sure. For a single frigggin' run of 6/3 to an outlet it's a non-issue! Walking the permit easily doubles or triples the labor time.
SoundDaTrumpet
Member
Agree with the thoughtfulness aspect.
Regarding remodels, permits are not necessarily required for those... as long as it's a 1:1 replacement where the remodel doesn't add receptacles, move walls, and change window dimensions. Added circuits always require permits. Just simply stating what city and national code books state. What bothers me is that I found out my landscape contractor routed 110VAC and low-voltage inside the same conduit. It is never an issue until it's found out to be wrong.
Fusion
Member
Home owners are allowed to pull their own permits. If you have the time. Pull your own permits. You basically tell them what you are doing and you pay the fee for just the permit vs letting the electrician do it. The electrician will charge you "time" + permit fees. Usually it's roughly $50-250 for the permit dependent on your location. The electricians will normally charge you an additional $100-300 on top.
Many places have moved to an online permit system. It look me <5 minutes to create an account and apply for the permit. Total cost for the permit and inspection was $160.
Hell yeah! I learned how to ski watching Youtube!
Electrical work however...I'll leave that to the professionals.
eprosenx
Active Member
This is a very interesting thread. Lots of thoughts and feedback all across the board.
I just got done installing a HPWC outside my house on a 60a breaker by myself along with a NEMA 14-50 on a 50a breaker inside my garage as a backup / alternative. I also at the same time installed a generator transfer panel with an outdoor inlet plug along with a "sense" energy monitor.
I am a pretty technically adept homeowner, but I still had to think through a lot of things in detail to get all the right conduit parts for the runs (I ran it in EMT piping that I bent myself - learned by watching YouTube videos). It rains a LOT here in Oregon and so making sure my installation was raintight was very important.
I did get it inspected (Washington County Oregon) for several reasons:
I was kind of annoyed though at how fast the inspector wanted to bail once he got to my house. He took one look at my EMT bending skills and was ready to sign it off. I peppered him with questions which made him stay a bit longer. Had I not, I suspect he would have been out of there in seconds. I wanted him to at least look at the work I did in the panel but he declined. Since he gave me no notice before showing up at my door on the day of the scheduled inspection I did not have any covers off for him to look at things and even though I offered he did not have me open anything up.
So I could have used the wrong gauge wire, hooked things to the wrong places, not tightened down wires, etc... and it still would have gotten signed off. Let's just say it did not inspire confidence in the inspection system.
But hey, it was $141.12 to cover my ass. <shrug>
I just got done installing a HPWC outside my house on a 60a breaker by myself along with a NEMA 14-50 on a 50a breaker inside my garage as a backup / alternative. I also at the same time installed a generator transfer panel with an outdoor inlet plug along with a "sense" energy monitor.
I am a pretty technically adept homeowner, but I still had to think through a lot of things in detail to get all the right conduit parts for the runs (I ran it in EMT piping that I bent myself - learned by watching YouTube videos). It rains a LOT here in Oregon and so making sure my installation was raintight was very important.
I did get it inspected (Washington County Oregon) for several reasons:
- I wanted someone else to look over my work - even though I am very fastidious, this is not my profession
- If there was ever an issue, I don't want my insurance company to ever have an "out" to blame me for not having it inspected
- When selling a house in Oregon I believe you are required to disclose any un-permitted work. Not worth my hassle or liability.
I was kind of annoyed though at how fast the inspector wanted to bail once he got to my house. He took one look at my EMT bending skills and was ready to sign it off. I peppered him with questions which made him stay a bit longer. Had I not, I suspect he would have been out of there in seconds. I wanted him to at least look at the work I did in the panel but he declined. Since he gave me no notice before showing up at my door on the day of the scheduled inspection I did not have any covers off for him to look at things and even though I offered he did not have me open anything up.
So I could have used the wrong gauge wire, hooked things to the wrong places, not tightened down wires, etc... and it still would have gotten signed off. Let's just say it did not inspire confidence in the inspection system.
But hey, it was $141.12 to cover my ass. <shrug>
talkingevs
GO AVS! 2022 CHAMPS!
I don't mean to hijack this topic but if we have a dedicated outlet already installed in our garage for car charging, can we just plug the Tesla into that or will we need wiring,etc? Is there a way to just plug direct from car to outlet? It is one of those outlets like a dryer outlet.
Just wanted to updated everyone on this. The first electrician was able to provide me an estimate for the work I want done and it came in at $540.81 which includes inspection. I am waiting on the estimate from the other electrician who I got from Tesla's website. I do not think it would cost too much more or less. Both electricians did say that for adding a 240V outlet does not require any permits but they also said they can both do that and get the work inspected.
I liked both guys, but the one who provided me the estimate worried me a little bit because I had to show him a picture of what the outlet looked like because he was asking me if I was looking for a twist lock plug/outlet (or something like that)? They both said it would take about two to three hours to complete and that I have plenty of room on my panel. I was liking the first electrician a bit more (Tesla's website) and am eager to see their estimate.
I liked both guys, but the one who provided me the estimate worried me a little bit because I had to show him a picture of what the outlet looked like because he was asking me if I was looking for a twist lock plug/outlet (or something like that)? They both said it would take about two to three hours to complete and that I have plenty of room on my panel. I was liking the first electrician a bit more (Tesla's website) and am eager to see their estimate.
The mobile connector comes with a pigtail adapter for plugging into a NEMA 5-15 (standard 120V outlet) and a NEMA 14-50 (standard "dryer" plug). You can buy additional adapters from Tesla for pretty much any outlet type here: Model S/X/3 Gen 2 NEMA Adapters
Here's good information for identifying what type of outlet you have: NEMA connector - Wikipedia
You need to determine what outlet type you have, and what size circuit breaker it's connected to. That will enable you to determine how fast you can charge and if that rate will be sufficient for your usage.
Suggest starting a new thread and including a photo of the outlet and the breaker if possible. @Runt8 answer is right on target.
talkingevs
GO AVS! 2022 CHAMPS!
Yea I'm sorry again. It's just something that I thought of when I was reading this one.
Tesla has a whole section on its web site about home charging options. Please review and come back to post any specific questions you have.
Home Charging Installation
The NEMA 14-50 is not a dryer plug. It is typically associated as the RV outlet or electric range outlet. A dryer plug is the 14-30. The 14-30 is 30 Amps and has a L shaped neutral.
Absolutely correct, but most people don't know the difference and call them all "dryer" plugs.
That’s why we need to be more precise in our terminology. Otherwise we get the issues of people having the wrong adapter, thinking their 14-50 adapter will plug into their dryer outlet, or not understanding why they aren’t charging at the amps they thought they would get (or the miles/hr rate), etc. It’s more than confusing to call the 14-50 a “standard dryer plug”. It’s completely incorrect. 240V outlet and “dryer plug” are not synonymous. As long as we’re answering questions here, let’s try to educate new and prospective owners about the different 240V outlets and call them by their names— NEMA 14-30 and NEMA 14-50, and explain the difference.
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