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Which mono block forged wheel size, color and style would you like?


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I think people are being a bit conservative with the offsets as it stands because there is so little data about what fits.

Please buy a set of +20 offset and let us know how it goes. I predict rubbing on hard corners with a bump at minimum.

Buying a set of performance forged rims based primarily on the look isn't my approach. Whether they have 15mm more "Dish" or not isn't as important to me as it might be to others.
 
I think people are being a bit conservative with the offsets as it stands because there is so little data about what fits.

Please buy a set of +20 offset and let us know how it goes. I predict rubbing on hard corners with a bump at minimum.

Buying a set of performance forged rims based primarily on the look isn't my approach. Whether they have 15mm more "Dish" or not isn't as important to me as it might be to others.
Go to the “other” forum model3ownersgroup where Get Your Wheels has done tons of sets, shown examples, and is milling out backsides of wheels to fit P3+ cars. You have MPP who is running theirs at the track and not having issues. You can have the Performance AND look together. I’m not talking about poke and stretch.

If the figments currently offered are what the masses want, them that’s great. At the least, people need to be aware of what this design and factory specs is like. While it is buyer beware, some might be buying thinking it willlook like one thing and turn out to be another.

None of Titan 7’s other car figments are OEM mild like these, so it strikes me a bit strange that we even got this far with these fitments. I’m grateful for the OP starting all of this. I’d never even heard of Titan 7 before this, and I’d love for one of the fitments to work for me.
 
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I measured the distance from my 18" 8.5 aeros outer rim edge to the widest part of the fender and its only 10mm in. I did this by putting a straight edge touching the entire outer face of the rim and extending it to the top of the fender then measuring the inset from the top. This means if the wheel went out more than 10mm from stock it would stick out wider than the fender even at it widest spot which is the top.

If the wheels where to be replaced with a 9" +35 with this tire config, Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets The rims edge would stick out 11mm farther, so that would be 1mm out past flush. I would argue that's almost flush perfection. Any smaller offset would give you poke. I have nothing against poke and love the concavity but if flush is what people want then 9" +35 seems to make sense. If you want 11mm poke past top part of fender than +25 might be your thing and then you'll also have room for 9.5" in the front.
 
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I measured the distance from my 18" 8.5 aeros outer rim edge to the widest part of the fender and its only 10mm in. I did this by putting a straight edge touching the entire outer face of the rim and extending it to the top if the fender. This means if the wheel went out more than 10mm from stock it would stick out wider than the fender even at it widest spot which is the top.
If the wheels where to be replaced with a 9" +35 with this tire config, Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets The rims edge would stick out 11mm farther, so that would be 1mm out past flush. I would argue that's about as flush as possible. Any smaller offset would give you poke. I have nothing against poke and love the concavity but if flush is what people want then 9" +35 seems to make sense.
Are you using stock springs? If so, then lowering will give a slightly more negative camber as I have the UP moderate springs and my measurement is 12mm front and 22mm rear, measuring the same way you did and checking using the same calculator. I figure 19x9.0 +35 front and 19x10.0 +40 is a good staggered setup and will fit more flush and still under the fender with no rubbing, also keeping scrub radius nearly the same as stock.
 
I would love to see some pics and hear the stories of people using a +20 offset. If it works it works. I guess linking to a thread in the other forum isnt allowed from here? Mind sending me a pm with a link?

All info is good info, and I appreciate those who are really paying attention and pushing right to the edges of whats possible and reasonable.
 
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@Vines @nalang I'll concede that I could be thinking too extreme. As for 9" +20 on a P+, it's only 2mm further out than MPP's 9" +25 and 1mm less than their 10" +35. So yeah, I think it could be done. It might be riding the edge of sensibility though and only on a P+.

Guest could be right that a compromise of 9" +30 could be best as that extends 16mm from stock. There is enough information showing that the stock wheels can handle a 15mm front spacer and 25mm rear to get flush. For those still paying attention, that's 18/28mm for P+. The 8.5's could be +30 and 9" +28 (like the Evo). That would at least give improvement on 8.5" wheel over stock while not pushing it to extreme at all and make the 9" just a bit more so while accommodating 245-265 all around. I just know that the flat +40 is not a good look especially when you put it on the rears, and am afraid there's going to be a slew of unhappy buyers if kept that way. Good looks on the first run creates more buyers afterwards.
 
@Vines @nalang I'll concede that I could be thinking too extreme. As for 9" +20 on a P+, it's only 2mm further out than MPP's 9" +25 and 1mm less than their 10" +35. So yeah, I think it could be done. It might be riding the edge of sensibility though and only on a P+.

Guest could be right that a compromise of 9" +30 could be best as that extends 16mm from stock. There is enough information showing that the stock wheels can handle a 15mm front spacer and 25mm rear to get flush. For those still paying attention, that's 18/28mm for P+. The 8.5's could be +30 and 9" +28 (like the Evo). That would at least give improvement on 8.5" wheel over stock while not pushing it to extreme at all and make the 9" just a bit more so while accommodating 245-265 all around. I just know that the flat +40 is not a good look especially when you put it on the rears, and am afraid there's going to be a slew of unhappy buyers if kept that way. Good looks on the first run creates more buyers afterwards.

could you please educate me on why you use different offset number for P+? I know there is a 3mm lip but since it is getting machined into the wheel, the offset is the same right? Or does the wheel hub of P+ sit 3mm further out compare to the none + wheel hub?
 
could you please educate me on why you use different offset number for P+? I know there is a 3mm lip but since it is getting machined into the wheel, the offset is the same right? Or does the wheel hub of P+ sit 3mm further out compare to the none + wheel hub?

reasonable question. The brake hub is itself further inward which is creating the 2.5-3mm step. If you use a 3mm spacer, you will then have wheels that fit like on the non P+ cars. I assume that Mountain Pass Performance was smart enough to engineer their brakes to meet flush with the rest of the center bore as Tesla should have. The P+ wheels are 8.5" +35, but because of that step, they only would extend 2mm further than the 18's or 19's.
 
reasonable question. The brake hub is itself further inward which is creating the 2.5-3mm step. If you use a 3mm spacer, you will then have wheels that fit like on the non P+ cars. I assume that Mountain Pass Performance was smart enough to engineer their brakes to meet flush with the rest of the center bore as Tesla should have. The P+ wheels are 8.5" +35, but because of that step, they only would extend 2mm further than the 18's or 19's.

I see, so the brake hub itself is thinner on the P+ compare to the non +. Would this 3mm spacer work with a P+?

https://www.amazon.com/HUBCENTRIC-Spacers-Cadillac-Lincoln-Pontiac/dp/B01N8U4ZU9/

Looking to get the Titan 7 Evo spec.
 
@Guest @ppower @mcbarnet007 @roguenode @nalang @Vines @kev1n
If you guys want a different config, please contact Evasive directly [email protected]. We were conservative and trying to keep the weight as low as possible and appeal to the largest market. I challenge anyone on this thread to find a better deal for strength, weight, looks and price. You can definitely find cheaper, but they aren't Mono-block forged under 10,000 TONS of pressure with a lifetime warranty.



 
I emailed evasive a few days ago to see if I could change my color from black to bronze and haven't gotten a response. Not sure me emailing will do much. On this topic, I am a follower, not a leader. My deposit stands for the +35, but, if a +30 can be coordinated I would change.
 
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I emailed evasive a few days ago to see if I could change my color from black to bronze and haven't gotten a response. Not sure me emailing will do much. On this topic, I am a follower, not a leader. My deposit stands for the +35, but, if a +30 can be coordinated I would change.

Mike Chang is getting bombarded by a lot of Model 3 owners right now- give him some time. I know because my TMC account gets some traffic too...:D

Here is more information on why you don't want to go larger with a car that already has a pretty tight suspension.
CNET On Cars 'Your Emails': Pros and cons of larger wheel rims - Video
 
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Good good news today from Evasive MotorSports and Mike Chang.

They are submitting the orders for 19x8.5 and 19x9 sizes by tomorrow. They will have extra sets available in all the colors so people can still put in the order.
The 18x8.5 we only have 3 sets deposit for right now, so it needs a slight push before we can commit to production. For those in a rush to get these wheels, you can call Evasive and move over to the 19" fitment and catch this first batch if you want or hold the line (like me for now since I dont have a 3 yet!!!!).

Also for those that have deposits expect an email from Evasive confirming the order submission to Titan7!!!!

Can't wait to see these (especially the red / bronze and blue/bronze combo!!!)...

FORGED FOR ALL

Also here is some good wheel porn for you guys waiting for the real thing

 
@Xenoilphobe I wasn’t aware that we could contact Evasive directly to discuss different production configurations. I was under the impression that our community needed to vote on the production configuration. Am I misunderstanding how the group buy is setup?
Yes, you can contact Evasive directly. It's my first time doing a group buy, and frankly I have learned a lot from some mistakes, bottom line upfront is that if we get 8 $500 deposits for 8 sets of any fitment we can negotiate a price with Evasive and they move to production.

Deposit Information:

-Deposit of $500 is for a set of 4.
-Once 8 sets of each fitment is reached, Titan 7 will start manufacturing that fitment.
-ETA for arrival once 8 sets is reached is roughly 3-4 Months.
-We will be in contact with all that have placed a deposit to update status throughout the process.
-Once the wheel production has been completed for each size, we will contact each customer with paid deposits to finish the remaining balance and ship out the order.

Titan 7 is a wheel brand like no other. Our sole mission is to provide the enthusiast with the best performance wheel possible, period. We manufacture our wheels 100% in-house utilizing 10,000 TONS of industry leading pressure. Each design is fully optimized with the latest software analysis, laboratory testing, and real world track use. With over 40 years of combined experience in high level racing and wheel manufacturing - Titan 7 is poised to deliver wheels that are ""Forged for All"".