Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[kiNGng3]

I found a spotify playlist called Frequency Bass Test Tones which lets you play songs at 5hz increments. Starting at 5 and going all the way up to 100. It's not until about 25 or 30 that I start getting bass tones at around 40hz the bass sounds great. My teeth are rattling!

But the subwoofer is only 40Hz - 150Hz (based on HS documents)? You shouldn't hear anything under 40Hz!

 

[kiNGng3]

My reference I'm using to the ICE connector is the one that people figured out on the TeslaOnline forum for the TO harness.

Yes from the picture I posted above about the ICE outputs!

 

[Mitev]

Please kindly check the link to download the software " Version E DSP48_31.exe "
Follow up the update process.png and readme.txt ( newer one ) to adjust the sound .

Hansshow/Model-3-Audio-Verision-E-DSP-software

My PC doesn't allow me to open the exe file because of virus detected. Can you verify it please?

 

[GT!!]

My PC doesn't allow me to open the exe file because of virus detected. Can you verify it please?

I'm seeing the same thing. It says the file is infected with VirTool:MSIL/CryptInject. "This program is used to create viruses, worms or other malware."

 

[Hayden]

Version E cost 773 dollar now. What's changed?

 

[GT!!]

Version E cost 773 dollar now. What's changed?

Probably in preparation for their Black Friday sale that starts tomorrow

 

[Alien8er]

Looks like all their audio stuff went up. It's removed from the main page, but if you search you can find it. The DIY kit was $89 before right? It's now $149

 

[sa012]

Looks like all their audio stuff went up. It's removed from the main page, but if you search you can find it. The DIY kit was $89 before right? It's now $149

Wow, I am glad I bought the DIY when I did. Between the price of TeslaOffer's DIY and the good feedback it was only a a matter of time.

 

[Ry3n]

Looks like all their audio stuff went up. It's removed from the main page, but if you search you can find it. The DIY kit was $89 before right? It's now $149

Looks like that is DIY is With rear speakers. Without the rear speakers it's now $90.

 

[beachsideev]

so the diy went up $10.

 

[JBHemlock]

I got my version E kit, and in general it looks pretty decent. I'm a little concerned about the power wires, however, so I'm going to treat the thing as a work in progress. Both the DSP and the subwoofer each have little 16 AWG power wires with no fuse at the power tap.

I can't find any info on power consumption for the DSP, but it looks like it just gets power from the big master plug that goes into it, so I suspect it's not doing a lot of amplifying (despite the claimed 8x50W output, it just doesn't look like it can put that out). For now, at least, I'm going to take the 16 AWG power wire at face value, and stick a little 7.5 amp inline fuse in where it attaches to the penthouse.

The subwoofer has pretty beefy looking power terminals, and that 15 amp fuse just screams "melting insulation" to me when I look at the power wire. I'm not going to trust the supplied power wire for this, then. For 15 amps (which, granted, isn't a lot for a sub), I figure a 10 AWG power wire is about right, so I'm going to run my own power and ground wires to it, along with a 20 amp inline fuse at the penthouse.

I still have high hopes for this system outside of that. I The main thing I want out of it is the sub (which I have) and the connection to the rest of the speakers in my SR+ (which I also have), along with the control I get out of a DSP. I'll post an update after I get it installed.

 

[Ry3n]

I got my version E kit, and in general it looks pretty decent. I'm a little concerned about the power wires, however, so I'm going to treat the thing as a work in progress. Both the DSP and the subwoofer each have little 16 AWG power wires with no fuse at the power tap.

I can't find any info on power consumption for the DSP, but it looks like it just gets power from the big master plug that goes into it, so I suspect it's not doing a lot of amplifying (despite the claimed 8x50W output, it just doesn't look like it can put that out). For now, at least, I'm going to take the 16 AWG power wire at face value, and stick a little 7.5 amp inline fuse in where it attaches to the penthouse.

The subwoofer has pretty beefy looking power terminals, and that 15 amp fuse just screams "melting insulation" to me when I look at the power wire. I'm not going to trust the supplied power wire for this, then. For 15 amps (which, granted, isn't a lot for a sub), I figure a 10 AWG power wire is about right, so I'm going to run my own power and ground wires to it, along with a 20 amp inline fuse at the penthouse.

I still have high hopes for this system outside of that. I The main thing I want out of it is the sub (which I have) and the connection to the rest of the speakers in my SR+ (which I also have), along with the control I get out of a DSP. I'll post an update after I get it installed.

How long ago did you order yours?

Yeah the wire size is a bit of a concern. It's always best to have wire the right size or larger gage than you need rather than smaller. Hopefully their math adds up.

 

[amorris]

I got my version E kit, and in general it looks pretty decent. I'm a little concerned about the power wires, however, so I'm going to treat the thing as a work in progress. Both the DSP and the subwoofer each have little 16 AWG power wires with no fuse at the power tap.

I can't find any info on power consumption for the DSP, but it looks like it just gets power from the big master plug that goes into it, so I suspect it's not doing a lot of amplifying (despite the claimed 8x50W output, it just doesn't look like it can put that out). For now, at least, I'm going to take the 16 AWG power wire at face value, and stick a little 7.5 amp inline fuse in where it attaches to the penthouse.

The subwoofer has pretty beefy looking power terminals, and that 15 amp fuse just screams "melting insulation" to me when I look at the power wire. I'm not going to trust the supplied power wire for this, then. For 15 amps (which, granted, isn't a lot for a sub), I figure a 10 AWG power wire is about right, so I'm going to run my own power and ground wires to it, along with a 20 amp inline fuse at the penthouse.

I still have high hopes for this system outside of that. I The main thing I want out of it is the sub (which I have) and the connection to the rest of the speakers in my SR+ (which I also have), along with the control I get out of a DSP. I'll post an update after I get it installed.

I just got my kit in yesterday, and I feel the same way about the power cables. I may be doing the same thing as well, upgrading the sub power. Now if Tesla could just deliver me my SR+, that would be awesome! I jumped on the audio upgrade earlier before the group buy discount ended.

 

[JBHemlock]

How long ago did you order yours?

Yeah the wire size is a bit of a concern. It's always best to have wire the right size or larger gage than you need rather than smaller. Hopefully their math adds up.

I ordered mine on the 2nd, so it only took a couple of weeks.

Since there are folks out there who have installed this already and are happy with the sound, I suspect the power wires are probably fine for the DSP and sub, at least if you don't really crank it. My main issue is the lack of fusing at the power tap. I think everyone should stick inline fuses at the power tap for safety - the thing gets wired to the main battery, after all. For 16 AWG wires of the length of the harness, I'd go with 7.5 amp fuses. Worst comes to worst, it would be a pain in the butt to run a thicker wire to the DSP, but it's certainly doable, and the fuses will at least keep you from having a fire even with the little 16 AWG wires.

 

[amorris]

I ordered mine on the 2nd, so it only took a couple of weeks.

Since there are folks out there who have installed this already and are happy with the sound, I suspect the power wires are probably fine for the DSP and sub, at least if you don't really crank it. My main issue is the lack of fusing at the power tap. I think everyone should stick inline fuses at the power tap for safety - the thing gets wired to the main battery, after all. For 16 AWG wires of the length of the harness, I'd go with 7.5 amp fuses. Worst comes to worst, it would be a pain in the butt to run a thicker wire to the DSP, but it's certainly doable, and the fuses will at least keep you from having a fire even with the little 16 AWG wires.

And running some thicker wire back for the sub would actually give you some future upgradeability. I was gonna try the 8" sub out, and if it's not "enough", go for a self-powered 10" in the trunk well. Probably running a 8-10ga wire with an inline fuse would be a good plan during the install. Now to find that cloth wire loom tape they used.. any ideas?

 

[GT!!]

Looks like my version B will arrive tomorrow, if UPS tracking can be believed (currently shows as being in Anchorage). I ordered Nov-7 and it was shipped only yesterday). Wonder what surprises I'll find with the different DSP that is included with this kit!

 

[Ry3n]

And running some thicker wire back for the sub would actually give you some future upgradeability. I was gonna try the 8" sub out, and if it's not "enough", go for a self-powered 10" in the trunk well. Probably running a 8-10ga wire with an inline fuse would be a good plan during the install. Now to find that cloth wire loom tape they used.. any ideas?

Search for "tesa tape" on Amazon or other. That's the good stuff.

 

[Ry3n]

Looks like my version B will arrive tomorrow, if UPS tracking can be believed (currently shows as being in Anchorage). I ordered Nov-7 and it was shipped only yesterday). Wonder what surprises I'll find with the different DSP that is included with this kit!

Wow, so if I order one tomorrow I might get it faster and cheaper than the one I ordered over a month ago and still hasn't been shipped? (I must have angered Cici)

I might actually have to think about that one.

 

[kiNGng3]

The subwoofer has pretty beefy looking power terminals, and that 15 amp fuse just screams "melting insulation" to me when I look at the power wire. I'm not going to trust the supplied power wire for this, then. For 15 amps (which, granted, isn't a lot for a sub), I figure a 10 AWG power wire is about right, so I'm going to run my own power and ground wires to it, along with a 20 amp inline fuse at the penthouse.

^This. I'm also gonna run an inline fuse at the penthouse and run a bigger fuse at the subwoofer.

 

[kiNGng3]

Looks like my version B will arrive tomorrow, if UPS tracking can be believed (currently shows as being in Anchorage). I ordered Nov-7 and it was shipped only yesterday). Wonder what surprises I'll find with the different DSP that is included with this kit!

Version B has a smaller DSP and it's not a DSP amplifier like version E. Also I haven't found a software link so I'm not sure if it's tuneable at the moment?