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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
Thanks! However, like the version E software, this one is also being detected as a virus by Microsoft Windows Antivirus (Defender). Is this a false detection?
amorris
Member
yeah it’s something with defender. If you install a 3rd party AV like Avast it won’t see it as a virus. It’s a problem with defender and certain types of software.
How about you be more professional! I know what a LPF is and know how to use the adjustment dials and it's clear from the many posts from above. It still doesn't mean if you set the cutoff to 40Hz it is capable of playing those frequencies. Maybe the new subwoofer file fixed it? I don't know? My opinion is based on the original from factory.
Maybe next time you send products that work right out of the box, William!
Mk30
Member
I finally got the DIY kit installed, however the rear speakers are swapped, left is right, right is left. Is there a fix for this? Everything up front is fine.
My friend was looking at buying this based on the 25% discount but my advice to him was to wait as there seem to be a lot of problems. Things like mixed up balance or fader in at least one review I saw would give me pause and if that part isn't correct there could also be other issues that are harder to notice like polarity. I suppose if you had the patience and skill, you can sort out these issues and start cutting wires and re-soldering them to get everything sorted properly. The other issue that I find questionable is in such a short time they have gone through 4 variations of subwoofers starting with a 10" MDF which got discontinued in a very short time and then replaced with an oval 5x8 which was claimed as improved, which is hard to believe (but not impossible I suppose), that its better than a 10" round for subwoofer duty. Shortly after there was an 8" round in an underseat style enclosure and now they've introduced their 4th sub enclosure. Are they engineering and developing that fast or just rushing things onto the market? I'd wait until the dust settles and also give time to see if there are other players with audio solutions. The advantage of the Hansshow stuff is the bracketing that can bolt up to the car easily but to answer your question either wait or buy name brand sub and get custom bracket made.
Hey all,
So I've been spending A LOT of time in the DSP, changing settings, loading new versions from Hansshow, playing the knobs on the amp etc...I ended up doing something that Hansshow suggested to and it made a HUGE difference in bass from the system. I cut the purple wires and reversed them. At the moment it's 1000% better than it was before. My neighbour a ways away gave me the thumbs up haha.
I am about to go out for a long drive and won't be back until late tonight. I will work on a new video tomorrow that covers what I did and more information about the DSP. I don't know if I received a harness where things were incorrect or if that was by design. I don't know what the drawbacks are just yet as I haven't played around with it long enough, but from the hour I spent tinkering around I was much more satisfied. Almost too much bass! haha
So I've been spending A LOT of time in the DSP, changing settings, loading new versions from Hansshow, playing the knobs on the amp etc...I ended up doing something that Hansshow suggested to and it made a HUGE difference in bass from the system. I cut the purple wires and reversed them. At the moment it's 1000% better than it was before. My neighbour a ways away gave me the thumbs up haha.
I am about to go out for a long drive and won't be back until late tonight. I will work on a new video tomorrow that covers what I did and more information about the DSP. I don't know if I received a harness where things were incorrect or if that was by design. I don't know what the drawbacks are just yet as I haven't played around with it long enough, but from the hour I spent tinkering around I was much more satisfied. Almost too much bass! haha
Yes. Thank you for the advice and encouragement along the way. Unfortunately it's not so simple to always get in and tear it apart and tinker and I had to wait till I had more time on the weekend. I wish that this version also had some knobs protruding from the Gain, LPF, and Bass boost so I didn't have to take the entire thing out each time I wanted to make an adjustment!
Fernand
Active Member
If anyone wants to really check and adjust the frequency response in the car here's a cheap but accurate way to do it with an Android device, e.g. your smartphone.
1) Get a calibrated microphone like this $20 one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note that you should download the calibration file for your specific serial number, to compensate for variations in the mics, and copy it to your Android device.
2) Get an app like $7.99 AudioTool that can import that calibration file and display frequencies as an FFT frequency plot.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.julian.apps.AudioTool&hl=en_US&gl=US
3) Copy a Pink Noise .WAV file to a USB stick. This contains all the audio frequencies and plots as a flat FFT curve. It takes maybe 15 seconds for all the frequencies to play, but it's easier than using sweeps or separate tones.
4) Plug your mic into the Android device and run the app. While playing the Pink Noise file on the car audio system slowly move the mic around your listening position as it gradually builds the FFT graph. This motion averages the (significant) changes you get as you move your head, and shows you a pretty good picture of your audio system's frequency response, its deviation from perfectly flat.
5) Then adjust your system's EQ to give the flattest FFT curve. Or however you like it.
FWIW, here is my stock Tesla Premium Audio at EQ settings "flat".
Note the unnatural mid-bass boost at 60 Hz, typical of consumer rigs
with small (sub)woofers.
And here it is with how I set the on-board EQ set for a flatter response
all around.
YMMV
1) Get a calibrated microphone like this $20 one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note that you should download the calibration file for your specific serial number, to compensate for variations in the mics, and copy it to your Android device.
2) Get an app like $7.99 AudioTool that can import that calibration file and display frequencies as an FFT frequency plot.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.julian.apps.AudioTool&hl=en_US&gl=US
3) Copy a Pink Noise .WAV file to a USB stick. This contains all the audio frequencies and plots as a flat FFT curve. It takes maybe 15 seconds for all the frequencies to play, but it's easier than using sweeps or separate tones.
4) Plug your mic into the Android device and run the app. While playing the Pink Noise file on the car audio system slowly move the mic around your listening position as it gradually builds the FFT graph. This motion averages the (significant) changes you get as you move your head, and shows you a pretty good picture of your audio system's frequency response, its deviation from perfectly flat.
5) Then adjust your system's EQ to give the flattest FFT curve. Or however you like it.
FWIW, here is my stock Tesla Premium Audio at EQ settings "flat".
Note the unnatural mid-bass boost at 60 Hz, typical of consumer rigs
with small (sub)woofers.
And here it is with how I set the on-board EQ set for a flatter response
all around.
YMMV
Last edited:
Emcp422
Member
so correct me if I am wrong, but after talking to many pro audio installer as i know and a few new ones, a lot of them mentioned that when the chime sounds are generated by the head unit and if you add an amp to the signal coming out from it every sound will be amplified including those, its actually happened to a few of them with other cars, they all said pretty much you can tone them down a bit but not much you can do to get them back to normal. one thing i thought was to measure with something like the post above sugested and see which Hz bar increases when the chime sounds and lower that one a little to compensate, not sure if it would work
How did your subwoofer sound before doing this? You’re saying you did improve the subwoofer a lot by flipping these purple wires? What’s the reason behind this?
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