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How do you rotate tires on tesla?

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Tire rotation is done at the annual service. I take it for a second rotation about halfway between my annual service visits, which works out to 6000-7000 miles between rotations similar to what Tesla recommends. This is done at the Tesla service center-- no one else touches my Tesla.
 
PLEASE use jack stands or blocks of wood under your car, Other than that good advice. I would put a little never seize on the lugs.

Never use an anti-sieze compound on the lugs, threads, or lug seats. Doing so changes the friction between the lug nut and the stud, and will result in over-torquing the lug nuts.
 
I like doing a rearward cross pattern when I rotate. You need all 4 wheels off the ground to do this efficiently.
Front to back, front to back on the other side, and then swap back isn't that bad. If the perhaps extra 5 minutes or less it takes for the extra, third swap (because they really don't need full torque down in the intermediary step, as they aren't getting road driven) is worth the $600 to buy 2 pairs of those Jackpoint stands then that seems the way to go.

I recall that at some point in the past it was still an open question if the "Tesla" pads for the Jackpoints would work properly on the Model 3. Their website is now explicitly claiming so, and they seem to have been a quality operation is the past that seems safe to trust.

P.S. In the past I've used large wood block under the currently empty hub to give me enough time/space, if the jack fails. It's relatively poor protection for the vehicle itself, though. I preferred to use a spare (the donut), when doing the extended shuffle with minimal equipment, but obviously with Tesla that's not a there.
 
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Never seize on lugs was my shops standard practice for the 15 years I owned the repair shop. All lugs were always torqued with a calibrated torque wrench. The possibility of over torquing by a little bit is real but with very little down side, so use very little. Google it and you will find an active discussion.
 
Serious question.

Based on the fact there is little to no maintenance, I don't expect to be going to change oil and rotate tires at the dealer or a shop. So what now? How does a person ensure proper tire maintenance on tesla and specifically m3?

The recommendation is to rotate every 6,250 miles. I will go to a tire store. The same place that I went to have my seasonal tire switch done on the Roadster will do the rotation on the Model 3.
 
I recall that at some point in the past it was still an open question if the "Tesla" pads for the Jackpoints would work properly on the Model 3. Their website is now explicitly claiming so, and they seem to have been a quality operation is the past that seems safe to trust.

I have 2 sets of the Jackpoint jack stands that I've used for 3 years with the Model S and they work great. I just got my Model 3 and it looks like the jack pads would work, but my floor jack is a bit too thick/tall -- when I place the jack pad on top of the floor jack, the combination does not have enough room to slide under the Model 3.

They have a set of low profile pads that I might purchase, I also e-mailed them to see if the have a low profile Tesla-specific pad in the works.
 
Never seize on lugs was my shops standard practice for the 15 years I owned the repair shop. All lugs were always torqued with a calibrated torque wrench. The possibility of over torquing by a little bit is real but with very little down side, so use very little. Google it and you will find an active discussion.

Well, what can we say, for the 15 years you ran your shop, you were doing it wrong.

Doesn't matter if you used a torque wrench that was accurate to 0.001 ft-lbs. When the lugs are lubricated, there is no longer a correct relationship between the torque and the stress/strain on the studs. That relationship assumes a constant, pre-determined friction value. Change the friction value and the exact same torque reading results in over-stretched studs.

This is why I do as much of my own maintenance as I can -- the mechanical engineering principals behind this kind of standard maintenance are at best forgotten, or at worst never understood by most.
 
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I have 2 sets of the Jackpoint jack stands that I've used for 3 years with the Model S and they work great. I just got my Model 3 and it looks like the jack pads would work, but my floor jack is a bit too thick/tall -- when I place the jack pad on top of the floor jack, the combination does not have enough room to slide under the Model 3.

They have a set of low profile pads that I might purchase, I also e-mailed them to see if the have a low profile Tesla-specific pad in the works.
So we could try estimate if they'd work with our existing jacks; Could you share the height that your floor jack is able to drop to, and how much too high is that?
 
I rotate my own tires. I use a floor jack and hockey puck, as mentioned by others upthread. Since I have a spare, I use that as a placeholder while working around the car. Also have a torque wrench to get the lug nuts secured correctly and a breaker bar to loosen them (it isn't difficult). I don't have a spare set of wheels and TPMS valves for my snow tires so I do have to go to a tire shop for that (tomorrow, as it happens).
 
Well, what can we say, for the 15 years you ran your shop, you were doing it wrong.

Doesn't matter if you used a torque wrench that was accurate to 0.001 ft-lbs. When the lugs are lubricated, there is no longer a correct relationship between the torque and the stress/strain on the studs. That relationship assumes a constant, pre-determined friction value. Change the friction value and the exact same torque reading results in over-stretched studs.

This is why I do as much of my own maintenance as I can -- the mechanical engineering principals behind this kind of standard maintenance are at best forgotten, or at worst never understood by most.
Good points but if my memory is correct some models of Porsche (and I believe other makes) specify in their manuals that anti seize for the lug nuts is required and I am guessing that you never lived and worked on cars that like to bath in lovely salt brine that are the roads in the NE for the winter. My preference has and still is live with a little over torquing vs the corrosion that will also change the torque readings. Anyone that has concerns over this fun debate should follow the manufactures recommendations.
 
I have 2 sets of the Jackpoint jack stands that I've used for 3 years with the Model S and they work great. I just got my Model 3 and it looks like the jack pads would work, but my floor jack is a bit too thick/tall -- when I place the jack pad on top of the floor jack, the combination does not have enough room to slide under the Model 3.

They have a set of low profile pads that I might purchase, I also e-mailed them to see if the have a low profile Tesla-specific pad in the works.

I was conflicted on Jackpoint and Rennstands. I ended up getting the Rennstands. Currently on backorder. It will make it easier to do tire work on my cars (and future Model 3) where jacking points cannot fit both a jackstand and low-profile jack at the same location.
 
The recommendation is to rotate every 6,250 miles. I will go to a tire store. The same place that I went to have my seasonal tire switch done on the Roadster will do the rotation on the Model 3.

Skip Every Other Tire Rotation

I think you could skip every-other interval. Here's the math (percentages are theoretical but I believe still accurate if scaled differently) -->

@0-miles
Front = 100%
Rear = 100%

@6,250-miles
Front = 90%
Rear = 80%

<Rotate>

Still @6,250-miles
Front = 80%
Rear = 90%

@13,000-miles
Front = 70%
Rear = 70%

Rotate? Why? Makes no sense to rotate when tires are all even again. <don't rotate>

@ 19,250-miles
Front = 60%
Rear = 50%

<Rotate>

Still @ 19,250-miles
Front = 50%
Rear = 60%

@ 25,500-miles
Front = 40%
Rear = 40%

Same thing....no rotation needed.

So rotate at first 6,250, then at 13,000 mile intervals after that. Does this make sense?