Nope, I have no evidence that will convince you. If you don't want to rotate your tires, then by all means don't.
It's not a matter of "want" --- it's about facts reasons and evidence in order to make prudent decisions. Sorry if I hit a nerve.
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Nope, I have no evidence that will convince you. If you don't want to rotate your tires, then by all means don't.
The only difference between the S and X in changing a tire is the height level, the X is to be set at low and the S is to be set at the highest level.I haven't rotated the tires on my Model 3 yet, but I've done it plenty of times on the Model S. I just do it myself as I already have the tools. My trick is I use two jacks (aluminum low profile ones from Harbor Freight). I then jack both the front and rear side of the car at the same time. However, I only do this because I do not need to go under the car to rotate tires or keep the car in the air for very long. DO NOT PUT ANY PART OF YOUR BODY UNDER A CAR ONLY SUPPORTED BY A HYDRAULIC JACK!!!
Here are the steps I follow:
I just repeat on the other side and I'm done! However, I'm not sure on the torque spec for the Model 3. So be sure to research that before doing this.
- Remove the plastic lug nut caps.
- With a breaker bar and a plastic covered socket (to prevent scratching the wheel), break loose the lug nuts on both wheels.
- Put both jacks under the car. Jack up one corner until the tire just leaves the ground. Jack up the other corner until that tire just leaves the ground. Verify both tires are now about an inch off the ground.
- Using a cordless impact gun, remove the nuts from the front wheel and remove the wheel. Move the wheel to the back of the car.
- Using the impact gun again, remove the nuts from the rear wheel and remove the wheel. Set it aside.
- Inspect the brakes and suspension for any obvious issues or wear.
- Put the front wheel back on the rear hub. Start the lug nuts by hand for a few turns to insure no cross threading. I then use the impact gun to tighten all 5 in a star pattern. Since my gun isn't powerful enough and I quickly stop once the nut stops spinning, this doesn't over torque the nuts.
- Repeat steps 6 and 7 but with the rear wheel on the front hub.
- Gently lower the car to the ground.
- Set the torque wrench to 129ft/lbs and torque each lug nut in a star pattern. I do a double click on all 5 and then re-torque in the same sequence with just a single click of the toque wrench. Repeat for the other wheel.
- Reinstall lug nut caps.
The only difference between the S and X in changing a tire is the height level, the X is to be set at low and the S is to be set at the highest level and the click the jack button.
The torque spec is the same 129ftlb
My dad always changed his oil every 3000 miles so I plan on doing the same for the transaxle. I'll change the filter every other change though.....weelllll there is the transaxle lube......
I doubt that you could fit it under a Model 3 and I think you would want something to distribute the load on the jack point. Yes, you should loosen the lugs a little bit before jacking unless you're using an impact wrench.Does anyone know if you can safely use a bottle jack on a tesla? I have a 5 ton version, but haven't used it yet and is only if I had to change a tire on a road trip. Assuming you loosen the nuts on the wheel before jacking?
No a bottle jack should not be used on any Tesla especially the 3.I doubt that you could fit it under a Model 3 and I think you would want something to distribute the load on the jack point. Yes, you should loosen the lugs a little bit before jacking unless you're using an impact wrench.
I don't know how they do it at the service center, but the Tesla mobile tech that came to my house yesterday to rotate my 3's tires jacked up the right side from the rear jack point. No adapter or pad was used. Just his floor jack. Then did the same on the left side rear jack point.How to Tesla service center jack up Model 3's? Do they have adapters to use on the jack point or they have specialized lift?
Hopefully Tesla will join BMW and state that tire rotations are a waste of time.
The cars they mention are a single central engine, splitting power 4 ways. That's not what an AWD Tesla does. Probably means it doesn't apply like that.Do I really need to replace all four tires at the same time?
I wonder if this applies to Dual Motor Teslas... If so I might be a tire rotator.
Just to be clear, he did not use anything to adapt to the jack point hole, just used a standard jack with a regular cradle?I don't know how they do it at the service center, but the Tesla mobile tech that came to my house yesterday to rotate my 3's tires jacked up the right side from the rear jack point. No adapter or pad was used. Just his floor jack. Then did the same on the left side rear jack point.
Front tires were moved to the rear. No criss-crossing.
That only applies to vehicles with limited slip differentials. You don't want a constant speed differential on the two outputs.Do I really need to replace all four tires at the same time?
I wonder if this applies to Dual Motor Teslas... If so I might be a tire rotator.
Yes.Just to be clear, he did not use anything to adapt to the jack point hole, just used a standard jack with a regular cradle?
100 years of tire and car manufacturer experience disagrees with you.
$75.00 for a tire rotation!Serious question.
Based on the fact there is little to no maintenance, I don't expect to be going to change oil and rotate tires at the dealer or a shop. So what now? How does a person ensure proper tire maintenance on tesla and specifically m3?