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It IS possible to charge at 24A from a 120V TT-30 plug...

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Here's the problem with trying to go over 20A @ 120V:

The single hot line of 120V is only rated at 20A. You put two together to get 240V@40A. If you're pushing a single 30A hot leg through the UMC's internal relay and wiring, you're going to have a bad time.

If the UMC was rated for 60A, I could see it working.
 
Here's the problem with trying to go over 20A @ 120V:

The single hot line of 120V is only rated at 20A. You put two together to get 240V@40A. If you're pushing a single 30A hot leg through the UMC's internal relay and wiring, you're going to have a bad time.

If the UMC was rated for 60A, I could see it working.

None of what you wrote is correct. First, we are talking about 120v sources that are rated for 30A. Second, we aren't putting two 120v sources together. Third, even if we were, you wouldn't be doubling the amps.
 
None of what you wrote is correct. First, we are talking about 120v sources that are rated for 30A. Second, we aren't putting two 120v sources together. Third, even if we were, you wouldn't be doubling the amps.

So how are you taking a TT-30 connection (that historically has a 20A and 10A from the same phase) and running them through the UMC? Surely, you aren't running the 20A down one side and the 10A down the other. It wouldn't complete the circuit since there is no neutral used.
 
So how are you taking a TT-30 connection (that historically has a 20A and 10A from the same phase) and running them through the UMC? Surely, you aren't running the 20A down one side and the 10A down the other. It wouldn't complete the circuit since there is no neutral used.
There's so much wrong with what you've written it's hard to know where to start. The TT-30 has one 30a hot conductor, not two smaller ones. When connecting it to the UMC you connect the single hot and the neutral to make a 120v 30a circuit. The UMC has conductors sized for 240v @ 40a and they can easily carry 120v @ 30a. The limiting factor seems obviously to be that the car won't use both chargers @ 120v.
 
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There is a lot of confusion in this thread. The car uses at least one 10kw charger. The charger will accept 95-277V and 5-40A. As long as the amperage and voltage is within those limits, it will work. You could charge at 120V 40A if the car software would let you(even with one charger), but Tesla has decided that 20A is a good limit, so that's where it stops.
 
So how are you taking a TT-30 connection (that historically has a 20A and 10A from the same phase) and running them through the UMC? Surely, you aren't running the 20A down one side and the 10A down the other. It wouldn't complete the circuit since there is no neutral used.

A TT-30 is a receptacle providing a 120V nominal circuit by taking the AC voltage between one ungrounded ("hot") conductor and the grounded conductor (neutral), or what we call L-N voltage. It is rated for 30A @ 120V or 3.6 kW.

When the Tesla uses 240V, it does not need the neutral in a 14-50 receptacle because it uses the voltage derived between two ungrounded conductors, either from a 240V/120V split-phase system, or a 208Y/120V three-phase derived system.

To accomplish 120V charging, the Tesla NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 adapters connect the ungrounded ("hot") conductor to one of the line power inputs and the grounded ("neutral") conductor to the other line power input. So yes, for 120V, it uses neutral.

To simulate a TT-30, we simply create an adapter that takes L1 and N from a 14-50 plug and connects it to the L1 and L2 prongs of a second receptacle.
 
To accomplish 120V charging, the Tesla NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 adapters connect the ungrounded ("hot") conductor to one of the line power inputs and the grounded ("neutral") conductor to the other line power input. So yes, for 120V, it uses neutral.


To add to the database, all the Toyota Rav4 EV (Tesla powered) are limited to 20 amps at 120 volts. I don't know what the threshold is to eliminate the 20 amp restriction, but obviously somewhere between 120 volts and 208 volts.
 
Re-reading some of my previous posts in this thread, it appears I am on drugs. Now that I think about it, I WAS on drugs at the time! (fighting a cold :) )

As for the 30A@120V charging (limited to 24A) I'm thinking the 14-30 adapter would be better so it automatically dial down the amps to expect a 30A circuit.

Also, I wonder which VIN#s support this "feature" and if there's a chance Tesla will officially support it or release firmware to block it. I'm going to make one of those adapters (TT-30 to 14-30) and try it out on our next camping adventure.
 
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it is on a 20a breaker. I took a picture and stopped it there. I would like to go to 30a at 120v because some campgrounds do not have 240v but have 30a 120cv plugs.
 
it is on a 20a breaker. I took a picture and stopped it there. I would like to go to 30a at 120v because some campgrounds do not have 240v but have 30a 120cv plugs.

Your setting shows 24A, but your car is only displaying 20A. That's what happens when you have the 20A limit in your car. I suppose your picture could simply be as the car is ramping up, but I suspect it's more of the limitation in the car's software - earlier cars have a 20A limit when voltage is 120V.

For example, I wired a 15-40 to 15-40 adapter to use 120V instead of 240V, and the car displays 20A/40A and refuses to go up from there.
 
Come to think of it, if you want to test it just cap off one of the hots in the 14-50 outlet and swing the neutral over to it. You'll get 50A @ 120V to play with and see just how high it can go.

Yes, that's what Flasher described above. It has to be the correct hot you use or don't use though. The UMC/car is picky about which hot 120V comes in on.