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Let the hacking begin... (Model S parts on the bench)

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I tried searching but I couldn't find much info about these fobs that you're speaking of. What do they do differently from the stock, OEM fobs?

For clarification, in the old days you couldn't open the charge port from the key fob. This didn't matter if you had a UMC with it's built in button, but some of us didn't always use one (esp. in Europe/UK where the cars have type-2 ports, or in the US at public charge points).

Lola (and others) built an RF transmitter that copied what the UMC did to open the port, which saved clambering in the car and doing it from the dash, then getting back out and physically removing the cable. The benefit case for the device is greatly reduced now you can control the charge port by holding down the trunk button (for both open and unlock).
 
This powerful little RF Charge-Port flap opener has quite a range,
with the possibility of opening all the flaps within ... something
like 100 feet. Somewhat embarrassing when I used it outside
a Service Center that had around 50 MSs parked nearby.
So, not really polite to use at or near a Supercharger.

But, it really does the job when the one in the SpC plug
will not work, or only work about 1 in 10 tries.
 
I stopped by the Dania Beach Service Center to try the first example (before I turned the power amp all the way down). It got everything in the parking area in front and behind the building in addition to everything in the service area and every car in pre-delivery inspection in the adjacent space. It took me twenty minutes to close all the charge doors :)
 
I stopped by the Dania Beach Service Center to try the first example (before I turned the power amp all the way down). It got everything in the parking area in front and behind the building in addition to everything in the service area and every car in pre-delivery inspection in the adjacent space. It took me twenty minutes to close all the charge doors :)

At least since VIN 60k or so the door will auto close after a few minutes :)
 
I stopped by the Dania Beach Service Center to try the first example (before I turned the power amp all the way down). It got everything in the parking area in front and behind the building in addition to everything in the service area and every car in pre-delivery inspection in the adjacent space. It took me twenty minutes to close all the charge doors :)
At least since VIN 60k or so the door will auto close after a few minutes :)

Just imagine the orchestrated movements being caught on film though with the new ports! :)
 
I've concluded that the Tesla "85" kWh pack is actually about 81 kWh...

That sounds about right. I remember reading something similar. Check out page 12 of THIS pdf file. You can read the numbers in the hidden section if you copy and paste somewhere. If the numbers are correct, rated capacity is just under 85 kWh and actual capacity just under 80. It looks like (on page 1 there is a photo of a module) they have measured the actual cells.

6hfM4aB.gif
 
I stopped by the Dania Beach Service Center to try the first example (before I turned the power amp all the way down). It got everything in the parking area in front and behind the building in addition to everything in the service area and every car in pre-delivery inspection in the adjacent space. It took me twenty minutes to close all the charge doors :)


Feeding time at the Soo.
 
Anyway, using the NCR18650B rating of 3.2Ah @ 3.6V gives us 81.8kWh.
NCR18650B is typically quoted as a "3400mAh" cell (although spec sheet usually says 3350 mAh). Tested discharge at 200mA (4.2V to 2.8V) measures 12.142Wh of energy per cell so 7104 would be 86 kWh.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green) UK.html

Originally Tesla announced the cells would be 3.1Ah (which matches NCR18650A).
http://www.engadget.com/2010/04/23/panasonics-3-1ah-batteries-to-be-used-in-the-tesla-model-s-hav/

At 11.047 Wh (actual might be a bit higher as this tested a protected cell and cut off at 2.8V) that is 78.5 kWh. Name plate would be 3.1 Ah * 3.6V * 7104 = 79.3 kWh.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/NCR18650A protected (Green) UK.html

The other factor is that some high capacity LG and Samsung cells use a 4.35V charging voltage, although I don't think any Panasonic cells do.
 
NCR18650B is typically quoted as a "3400mAh" cell (although spec sheet usually says 3350 mAh). Tested discharge at 200mA (4.2V to 2.8V) measures 12.142Wh of energy per cell so 7104 would be 86 kWh.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green) UK.html

Originally Tesla announced the cells would be 3.1Ah (which matches NCR18650A).
http://www.engadget.com/2010/04/23/panasonics-3-1ah-batteries-to-be-used-in-the-tesla-model-s-hav/

At 11.047 Wh (actual might be a bit higher as this tested a protected cell and cut off at 2.8V) that is 78.5 kWh. Name plate would be 3.1 Ah * 3.6V * 7104 = 79.3 kWh.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/NCR18650A protected (Green) UK.html

The other factor is that some high capacity LG and Samsung cells use a 4.35V charging voltage, although I don't think any Panasonic cells do.


That would be correct. Some do use higher voltages, however, this will also sacrifice longevity of the cell's life. 4.2 is generally considered "Full" in most cases for a Lithium Ion Cell. The panasonics could be charged to a higher voltage too, and gain capacity, however, once again, sacrificing cell life.

Personally, I believe when doing the "Max Charge" function on the Ludicrous Mode cars, I believe the cells are getting juiced to a slightly higher voltage. That would be the absolute WORST condition to leave the cells sitting in, but if your doing the "Max Charge" feature, chances are you will be draining it fairly quickly.
Also, the higher voltage would allow slightly more efficient operation at those power draws as well.
 
Personally, I believe when doing the "Max Charge" function on the Ludicrous Mode cars, I believe the cells are getting juiced to a slightly higher voltage. That would be the absolute WORST condition to leave the cells sitting in, but if your doing the "Max Charge" feature, chances are you will be draining it fairly quickly.
Also, the higher voltage would allow slightly more efficient operation at those power draws as well.

i assume you are referring to "max battery power", which simply raises the temperature of the pack.
 
Just brainstorming here, but if people are working on a Model S CAN BUS reader, are the following events transmitted on the CAN?

Brake Light On/Off
Left & Right Turn signals On/Off
Reverse Light On/Off
Charging Active/Stopped

If so, it might be interesting to marry a simple CAN BUS reader to the Rear Lighted Applique module so the module only needs to tap +12v power and the CAN BUS, and wouldn't require the 4-5 hour install process it needs now. The Applique module already is an Arduino, so maybe that could be used to filter the CAN messages for the few needed to trigger the applique.

Thoughts?
 
Just brainstorming here, but if people are working on a Model S CAN BUS reader, are the following events transmitted on the CAN?

Brake Light On/Off
Left & Right Turn signals On/Off
Reverse Light On/Off
Charging Active/Stopped

If so, it might be interesting to marry a simple CAN BUS reader to the Rear Lighted Applique module so the module only needs to tap +12v power and the CAN BUS, and wouldn't require the 4-5 hour install process it needs now. The Applique module already is an Arduino, so maybe that could be used to filter the CAN messages for the few needed to trigger the applique.

Thoughts?

Pretty sure this stuff is on the body CAN, but don't hold me to that.