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"Cold weather" refers to the kind of extreme sub-zero temperatures they get in Canada and Norway. Australia's "cold weather" is no issue. I'm in Tasmania and the biggest impact weather has had on my range was when I was in New South Wales with heavy rain and strong headwinds. Ambient temperature was about 15 degrees which is fairly average for that time of year. In that case my typical ~370 km of real life range was reduced to ~330 km.How is LFP holding when in cold weather? is it really that bad dropping its capacity?
I see..not that bad..thanks for the info. we have really short summer here in UK.unpredictable weather. last year was our experience of one of the extreme winter -10 and summer 41degrees. again thanks."Cold weather" refers to the kind of extreme sub-zero temperatures they get in Canada and Norway. Australia's "cold weather" is no issue. I'm in Tasmania and the biggest impact weather has had on my range was when I was in New South Wales with heavy rain and strong headwinds. Ambient temperature was about 15 degrees which is fairly average for that time of year. In that case my typical ~370 km of real life range was reduced to ~330 km.
Also it's not that it affects capacity, just that the car uses more energy heating the battery, heating the cabin, and is less efficient due to wet roads and wind resistance.
I’ll update you next winter when here, in Canada, the temperature can drop until -30!!I see..not that bad..thanks for the info. we have really short summer here in UK.unpredictable weather. last year was our experience of one of the extreme winter -10 and summer 41degrees. again thanks.
!!!I’ll update you next winter when here, in Canada, the temperature can drop until -30!!
You'll find that once the temperature drops into single digits the car will be more likely to reduce the regenerative braking when the battery is cold.Also keen to contribute.
Coming up to my LFP Model Y's first (Australian) winter. In Canberra where I live, coldest weeks are like: overnight dip to -5C, morning peak hour traffic at 0C, and top out at 8-10C during the daytime.
Will watch out for range drops but hard to measure since we don't do a lot of kms.
That is a good question but the point is you're not hurting this type of battery when you go 100% so in the best case scenario you're only saving a little bit of mechanical wear on the connectors if you're not pluging in every day.But what I'm really curious about is what happens if I don't charge to 100% weekly?
It won't damage the battery right? And it should technically keep batteries in better health.
Sure BMS won't be calibrated - but when I decide to charge to 100% again in the future, would that fix the calibration issue? I don't really need an accurate SoC measurement most weeks as we only do 20kms a day on weekdays, and about 50kms on weekends.
It depends on what you mean by "hurting" the battery. Charging an NCA battery to 100% won't "hurt" it either, but in both cases (LFP and NCA), calendar aging will increase with higher SoC, and that's why @spades is asking whether it's OK to not charge LFP batteries to 100% weekly.That is a good question but the point is you're not hurting this type of battery when you go 100% so in the best case scenario you're only saving a little bit of mechanical wear on the connectors if you're not pluging in every day.
The question is how often should a LFP battery be charged to 100%. There are only 2 reasons to charge to 100% for LFP (or any other Li battery chemistry)whether it's OK to not charge LFP batteries to 100% weekly.
You will find that your estimated range will drop over time if you don't charge to 100% when compared to other cars of the same age. Of course you would need TeslaFi or the like for this, but possibly the total range reported in the car would also be lower. However because you are not going to 100% it makes it a little harder to judge this, could be calender degradation too.But what I'm really curious about is what happens if I don't charge to 100% weekly?
It won't damage the battery right? And it should technically keep batteries in better health.
Sure BMS won't be calibrated - but when I decide to charge to 100% again in the future, would that fix the calibration issue? I don't really need an accurate SoC measurement most weeks as we only do 20kms a day on weekdays, and about 50kms on weekends.
Right, ok. So this what I was trying to find out. If I don't charge to 100% for an extended period, range will go down, but the moment I do a few 100% it goes back up again. Are you certain that the battery itself isn't degrading at all, and it's just the BMS that isn't calculating range correctly?You will find that your estimated range will drop over time if you don't charge to 100% when compared to other cars of the same age. Of course you would need TeslaFi or the like for this, but possibly the total range reported in the car would also be lower. However because you are not going to 100% it makes it a little harder to judge this, could be calender degradation too.
I didn't charge our LFP car to 100% for about a month and my projected range when compared to other M3 on TeslaFi quickly fell. I recall it was about 20km lower at one stage than the others. What I suspect and others in the US also, is the LFP has a dynamic bottom buffer. The BMS will increase the bottom buffer % to give you more 'hidden' range at zero just in case you go deep into the pack. This gives the BMS some insurance against the problem of it not having an accurate reference of the cell voltage, which is the main 'problem' with LFP packs.
When I charged to 100% a few times my total range worked its way back to the other cars on TeslaFi.
Bear in mind that the battery pack isn't degrading quicker but in reality the BMS is doing its job.
If it's going back up, then it's not degradation it's showing, since batteries don't un-degrade.If I don't charge to 100% for an extended period, range will go down, but the moment I do a few 100% it goes back up again. Are you certain that the battery itself isn't degrading at all, and it's just the BMS that isn't calculating range correctly?
The LFP battery will not be degrading due to the non charge to 100% so rest easy on that. Calender degradation will occur for all as it can't be stopped.Right, ok. So this what I was trying to find out. If I don't charge to 100% for an extended period, range will go down, but the moment I do a few 100% it goes back up again. Are you certain that the battery itself isn't degrading at all, and it's just the BMS that isn't calculating range correctly?
Not charging to 100% doesn't reduce my enjoyment or change my use of the car, so your comment is irrelevant to me.I charge my car to 100 every time I plug it in. I never worry about range. I don’t need to optimize battery health. I enjoy my car. There is no evidence that you’re going to be able to prevent the eventual end point degradation, you’re maybe slowing it for a severe negative which is greatly reduced daily driving range.
You probably dont understand how low you need to keep charge state to have a meaningful effect on the battery health. If charging to 100% doesnt reduce your enjoyment of the car, can you explain how optimising battery degredation does?Not charging to 100% doesn't reduce my enjoyment or change my use of the car, so your comment is irrelevant to me.