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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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Nothing to be sorry about! Haha. We're all Tesla family and on our side UP exists as a result of our friends/neighbors at Tesla design studio. We're only here because of our continued goal we started back in 2013 to create and usher in Tesla Performance around the world. We support anyone with mod choices as long as you're having fun in a Tesla and spreading the word about how awesome it is to drive one (which you certainly are). The more companies that enter with performance Tesla tuning and the more options the better as far as we're concerned.
BTW if you do decide on the A7's and need some we some extra A7's in 315 that we've not used from last year's Pikes Peak adventure. We can set you up with a bit of savings on them. Feel free to reach out. We also have some extra Hoosier R35B in similar sizing for similar reason.
What kind of wheel / offset / spacer combo is needed to reach 295 with a stock fender + camber arms?

I actually wish I could swap mine! the MPP ones are nice, but I max out around -2.8 to -3 degrees with them at my ride height and they aren't quite as easy to adjust. But unfortunately i don't think the unplugged were available when I went to buy and it's installed now so too late!
 
18x10.5 sizing of the wheel. As for offset, the math gets a little fuzzy the more granular you get depending on variables with alignment and even tire PSI and allowance for deflection under load when you start getting down to 1-2mm increments. For the front ballpark 18x10.5+26 +- a couple mm for the front wheels. There's not a ton of room left on inside upright or outside fender at that point but you'll be right in the ballpark with those wheels and -3.5 degrees camber on stock fenders. We make our UP-03 18" race spec wheels for this purpose. Spacers can help to make small adjustments (or big adjustments as well).

Since we inventory a lot of 18x10.5 UP-03 race wheels for our race cars and client cars we find we prefer to run same wheels front and rear and use a spacer up front so we can have more flexibility with our tire inventory. For some people spacers are a dirty word but for us we run spacers up front for convenience factor since the front we find we want a lower offset than the rear. This has been the case on all of our lap record cars and our Pikes Peak car. It is not right or wrong, just work works for our goals thus far.

On stuff like this there's a lot of right answers depending on perspective and specifics...as a general caveat this is just what has been working for us over the years with our assortment of street builds and the race builds. Although I will say it has worked well across a lot of builds for us in a lot of environments ranging from Nurburgring to Pikes Peak to Laguna Seca to Tsukuba Circuit.
 
Getting ready for a Gridlife event next weekend. Going to be running in the Street class with the Tesla as my K24 swapped E36 is still not ready for GLTC. Should be fun. Have coilovers, control arms and a front lip on the way from Unplugged which will hopefully be here in time.

Test fitting some wheels from one of my race cars that fit well enough. These are Volk TE37's in 18x10.5 +22 with 285 35 18 RS4's. Tires will be 255 35 18 Falken RT660's for the event.

I'm not sure it's been published but the general consensus I came to with Gridlife is the M3P base classes in StreetGT now, so you can go about as wide as you want. :/

I won't make NCM but will be at Gridlife Colorado again.
 
2021 Model 3 Performance Autocross Build

MasterC17 Great write up! I could have used this info when I started developing my M3P for Autocross (AX). I'm adding my build and thoughts into the mix.

Dealer test drive:
Confession...I taxed the stock brakes on the dealer demo M3P on my test drive. I hated the lack of bolstering in the seat, the suspension didn't have what I was looking for to be competitive in the CST class for AX. But, the car was an absolute blast to drive! I LOVE the 0-60 that's quiet and super useful in AX and on the street. I should also mention we were in COVID mode at the dealer so the test drive with no sales person was convenient.

Brakes:
MPP rotors, SS lines, SRF brake fluid, MPP master cylinder brace, Carbotech X8 pads. The brakes are almost spot on. I'm going to try UP's PFC compound for Fontana Champ Tour National next week. The Carbotech pads have a little bit too much bite and I'm hoping the new UP PFC pads will have a little more modulation before lockup.

Front Upper Control Arms (FUCA):
If you are planning on AX or tracking your M3P then UP's FUCA is absolutely the best choice in my opinion. I tried the MPP first because of their simple clean design and the fact that I wasn't interested in adjusting castor. In the end I wasn't able to achieve enough camber at the ride height suitable to everyday driving (The lower you go, the greater the camber) and I wanted to experiment with castor adjustment. The UP FUCA was a solid design that allowed huge amounts of camber & castor adjustment So that's what I have on the car now.

Rear Camber & Toe Arms:
I run the UP rear camber & control arms. Their newest design allows more camber adjustment. They're also the strongest design. They're so robust Eddy of UP told me he uses a couple cresent wrenches to adjust them. Since my personality is a little on the OCD side I ordered a 28mm & 32mm wrench and cut them down to fit in the area well. The MPP camber & Toe Arms are slightly easier to adjust on the car but I was worried about the small pinch bolts. I never had an issue with them so I put it out of my head.

Swaybars:
I started out with Eibach swaybars since they appeared to have a similar diameter as UP's although less adjustability. MPP didn't offer any and I could save a couple bucks over getting the UP's. Rishie (Rishie owner of "autornd" is a great resource for everything Tesla) advised me to order lockings to bolt on the Eibach swaybars to avoid the bars "walking" side to side. The swaybars worked and I had no issues with walking thanks to Rishie. When I switched to UP coilovers I was advised that the UP swaybars worked better with them than than Eibach, so I switched to UP's swaybars and have them on the car now. The UP bars came with lockings welded on them as well as more adjustability holes.

Coilovers:
I run UP's Race spec one way adjustable coilovers and unless I come across an amazing deal for UP's two or three way adjustable set I will be running these indefinitely. Simply put, they were a game changer. I had MPP's sport coilovers and they were a huge difference from stock but they were a little too soft for the CST class. At AX events I was hesitating for the car to stabilize before turning (Body roll). On threshold braking, the front end was diving a little causing me to wait a little before turning. Here's a pic of the UP coilovers pushing over 1g in a corner. There were three large men in the car (260lbs, 205lbs, 200lbs the two big ones were on the passenger side). Look at the composure under such a load.
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Sliding in the seat:
Schroth had the only harness I knew of that would allow me to run the stock seat and snap in & out easily for events. That's what I have in the car now. The next issue was the lack of bolstering by the legs. I saw a pretty fast guy in a stock Tesla (Tim) wedging a Sparco seat cushion in-between the door and his leg. I liked the concept but wanted a cleaner solution. Since I couldn't find one, I made a rubber & foam pad that Velcro's on to the door handle. I got some very funny looks from my co-driver and Tom who helps us develop the car but at the end of the day, both said they loved it.
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Rear Spring Arms:
Regardless of your application, if you're replacing your rear spring arms, UP is hands down the best choice! The MPP spring arms are solid and good looking and I never had a mechanical issue with them. They collected asphalt and tire rubber in the spring seat cup but that's trivial. That being said the UP's are a dream to use. When you want to adjust ride height, all you have to do is using a socket wrench, reach under the car and turn it up or down! Seriously, it's a corner balancer's dream. No more jacking up the car, pulling off the wheel, adjusting the spring adjuster with a spanner wrench, putting the wheel back on, lowering the car off the jack, rolling the car back and forth taking a measurement and repeating until ride height is achieved.

Wheels:
I started out with Apex EC-7 18x9.5 and they work fine for 275 tires. When I made the jump to 295's I bit the bullet and sprung for UP's UP03 Race spec wheels 18x10.5" which I was able to get 295's on. I love the wheels, they're light, strong and give me a little sense of pride when They're on the car. I will use the Apex wheels until I've chewed through the 275's sitting under my house but when they're gone, I'll replace them with a set of off brand 18x10.5" wheels... Does anybody recommend an affordable practice wheel 18x10.5" that will fit over the Tesla M3P brake calipers?

Summary:
I've spent a lot of time & money developing my M3P for the CST class (Soon to be the XA class). Thank you to all the trusted sources that I've leaned heavily on (Rishie of Autornd, Ben & Eddy of UP, Jesse & Sasha of MPP, Tom, Kyle). I feel I have a very solid car and can now focus on my driving for the rest of the season. In the latest configuration we were able to finally get our first win in the CST class (**disclaimer- Tom Berry decided to race a different class that day).
IMG_7646.jpeg
Next weekend we will be racing the SCCA National Champ Tour in Fontana. The class we were hoping to run had no entrants so we will be running in the ASP class. The ASP class allows for Hoosiers... we will be running Yokohama AO52's (Since we have two sets under my house) and hoping for a miracle. I hope sharing my development helps as much as I learned from reading other peoples contributions.
 
curious what CST is? is it a made up class - cali street tire? think ASP or SM (booster brace puts you there) are our classes (besides SS/SSR)

-interesting bolsters, I'd think your harness isn't tight enough if your legs are sliding though?(/ use both feet! you'll be quicker )
MPP arm locks will never move. ..glad you had some concern and sold them though ;)
Front Sway bars - Eibach front has 3 holes too /same adjustability and size as UP. Rear - UPP makes the biggest bar.
the front Eibach does not really walk but definitely replace end links- stock are junk and don't last.
cheap 18"x10.5" - Koni dekagram 19lb (pretty sure they fit over P caliper? think there are some in this thread or the AM wheel threads))
 
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How about upvoting my question for Tesla's Q1 2021 Earnings Q&A about the Model 3 Competition?


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Please, help.
7 days left
 
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@mparsons very cool write up. Thanks for spending the time to do it. I should be seeing you around soon. I'm up in Vegas and what you are building is close to the one I'm spreadsheet building right now. I was surprised to read your experience with the UP race coil overs to the MPP ones. Do you still daily drive the car or is it more of a dedicated AX/weekend car? My car gets here in June and will promptly get a few mods right off the bat. I'm assuming XA will become a bonafide class next year? Are you headed to Nationals in ASP?
 
How about upvoting my question for Tesla's Q1 2021 Earnings Q&A about the Model 3 Competition?


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Please, help.
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I do hope Tesla builds a Model 3 "RS" model for more track-oriented drivers. Although I know that's not gonna happen anytime soon as Mr. Musk has a lot of catching up to do trying to fulfill all the orders.
 
I do hope Tesla builds a Model 3 "RS" model for more track-oriented drivers. Although I know that's not gonna happen anytime soon as Mr. Musk has a lot of catching up to do trying to fulfill all the orders.
I'm certain that one day Model 3 would be migrating to 4680 and that yields close to 100kwh. I expect that tri-motors and better cooling can trickle down from Model S as well. Other things are very easy and make sense to do to justify BMW M3 price level.
 
I got track days coming. How much do you deflate your tyres for the track? Or what PSI you do you set your tyres? I hace new Federals 595RS-PRO - 275/35ZR19 all around.

Thanks
On the stock PS4S on 20" factory wheels and stock suspension I found 40psi cold was good. (~48psi hot) Lower pressures (~42psi hot) allowed the tire to roll over too much onto the sidewalls. 38psi cold (~47psi hot) worked for RE-71R with stock suspension. There really is a need for more negative camber than stock suspension allows. And yes, I'm well aware that these pressures are higher than ideal (but are below the 50psi max cold pressure for the tires.)
 
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I'm certain that one day Model 3 would be migrating to 4680 and that yields close to 100kwh. I expect that tri-motors and better cooling can trickle down from Model S as well. Other things are very easy and make sense to do to justify BMW M3 price level.
If we do see a true Rally Sport model 3 with tri Motors and in a different League of performance I'm pretty sure that won't be until 2024 or 2025