Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

[davewill]

Do you still need to use it for a dryer though? If not, then it wouldn't really need to stay as a 10-30. I get why you are saying it can't go to 14-30 if you don't have the extra wire that a 14-30 would require, but the substitute for a 240V only outlet that an EV charging connection would need is a 6-30. It is only three wires and is just Hot1, Hot2, and ground, and you could switch to that from the wire that the 10-30 already has there.

But I assume it's located where a dryer would be, and if anyone ever wants to use it for a dryer, it would need to stay a 10-30. If you change it, you could end up in an awkward situation where you need to change it back, but can't as code doesn't allow installation of a new 10-30. Besides EV charging-wise, there's no downside to leaving it a 10-30. I'm certain that they can find an adequate 10-30 replacement.

 

[Rocky_H]

All three of those are really good points. I forgot Tesla doesn't sell a 6-30, but the EVSEAdapters products are great. And yes, I was just addressing that bit where someone said they couldn't change to a 14-30. If you wanted to change it to something else, you could. But sure, leaving it as a 10-30 is still a good option.

 

[Stew-2]

I need to use the 10-30 due to age and lack of extra wire.

Do you have your part number so i can contract the spec sheets and get this right the first time.

I would consider pulling a 50A to replacing the existing 30A but it’s going to be a nightmare enough. At least 100 ft of wire which won’t be cheap these days and tons of junction boxes to go through.

Besides I work from home 100% and only drive about 3k a year these last 3 years.

It is the 14-30R, ordered from zoro.com, their part # G1483946. It requires the face plate with the larger opening.

 

[Emblem boy]

Does the GFIC breaker have to be a specific type that matches your panel?
My panel says to use gfcb breakers, so I searched gfcb250 and I can't find it for below $200

 

[terranx]

Generally the breaker and panel have to match. What panel do you actually have?

 

[Emblem boy]

Generally the breaker and panel have to match. What panel do you actually have?

See attached images for what I see on my panel. Let me know if that helps

 

[terranx]

GFTCB250 is apparently a "type BR" GFCI breaker, which seems like would be fine for your box. Seems to be a bit more reasonably priced

Eaton® 50-Amp 2-Pole Type BR GFCI Circuit Breaker

 

[Emblem boy]

GFTCB250 is apparently a "type BR" GFCI breaker, which seems like would be fine for your box. Seems to be a bit more reasonably priced

Eaton® 50-Amp 2-Pole Type BR GFCI Circuit Breaker

Woah, thanks for the quick find. For some soon, I was thinking the gfcb meant GFCI, so it'd have to be a gfcb250.

While I'm here, I'd like some opinions on how easy this 14-50 install should be.

My garage is right on the other side of my panel. If I measure it right, I should just be able to cut a hole on the other side and put the wire through that circular cutout in my panel right? Less than a feet of cable I'd think.

Would I still need some type of conduit?

 

[stopcrazypp]

Woah, thanks for the quick find. For some soon, I was thinking the gfcb meant GFCI, so it'd have to be a gfcb250.

While I'm here, I'd like some opinions on how easy this 14-50 install should be.

My garage is right on the other side of my panel. If I measure it right, I should just be able to cut a hole on the other side and put the wire through that circular cutout in my panel right? Less than a feet of cable I'd think.

Would I still need some type of conduit?

If you use something like 6/3 NM-B (AKA Romex) you can run it in walls without a conduit. If it exits outside your wall that's a different case. If you use THHN (single wires) you would need to run it through conduit.

By code however you still need something on the hole to prevent the cable from moving around and scraping on the jagged edge of the knockout. If you go with NM, they are called NM connectors (there are multiple types, some are metal to clamp the wire, some are plastic Push-in).

Also consider how you would mount your box, and if drilling any holes be careful not to drill into other cables or pipes.

 

[Feathermerchan]

In my #6 Romex, the #6 was THHN inside the outer sheath.
Yes you should always have some sord of strain relief. In new construction, they usually staple the Romex near the box.
You can buy short lengths of flexible conduit for really short runs like you're talking about.

 

[Emblem boy]

Interesting. I'm going to have to do a bit more research.

With the price of the breaker and receptacle probably ending up close to, or above, $250, I'm highly considering a hardwired solution. The chargers are still so expensive though.

 

[Feathermerchan]

How many Amps are you planning to use? I built mine for 40A but rarely use over 10A. Maybe a smaller circuit would suffice and save you lots of $$$.

 

[Emblem boy]

How many Amps are you planning to use? I built mine for 40A but rarely use over 10A. Maybe a smaller circuit would suffice and save you lots of $$$.

I've actually been using the regular 120v outlet for the last 3 years, but I recently moved into a new house and since the install seemed simple, I thought I would go ahead and make the jump.

I plan to mainly charge for free at work, with faster charging at home on weekends when multiple longer trips will be done.

So honestly, I'd probably be fine with a 240v, 12-16A, but I don't imagine the cost savings would be much

 

[stopcrazypp]

Interesting. I'm going to have to do a bit more research.

With the price of the breaker and receptacle probably ending up close to, or above, $250, I'm highly considering a hardwired solution. The chargers are still so expensive though.

How did you get to $250?
Note if you are considering the Hubbell, you can buy the Byrant 9450FR which is practically identical for under $50 at Grainger or Zoro:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Receptacle-Single-49YY93
Zoro Select Receptacle, 50 A Amps, 125/250V AC, Flush Mount, Single Outlet, 14-50R, Black 9450FR | Zoro
If you don't opt for an industrial outlet, there are also decent options as long as you avoid Leviton (which has half size contacts).

 

[Emblem boy]

How did you get to $250?
Note if you are considering the Hubbell, you can buy the Byrant 9450FR which is practically identical for under $50 at Grainger or Zoro:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Receptacle-Single-49YY93
Zoro Select Receptacle, 50 A Amps, 125/250V AC, Flush Mount, Single Outlet, 14-50R, Black 9450FR | Zoro
If you don't opt for an industrial outlet, there are also decent options as long as you avoid Leviton (which has half size contacts).

My mistake.
Closer to $200 is probably a better estimate

Breaker $120
Recepticle $50
Wall plate and outlet box, ~$20-30

 

[Emblem boy]

I've started looking for used Tesla wall connectors and it seems there are some around me selling for $250-300. I think they are Gen 2 though, but from what I've read that shouldn't be a concern for me.

 

[Feathermerchan]

I bought two used 1st gen Tesla UMC's. They just need an outlet. You can use the Tesla App to set the charge rate.

 

[jeremymc7]

I've started looking for used Tesla wall connectors and it seems there are some around me selling for $250-300. I think they are Gen 2 though, but from what I've read that shouldn't be a concern for me.

Just make sure they have all the included parts that you might need that aren’t simple / cheap things like screw’s you can otherwise get from Home Depot. Download the appropriate manual and compare to what you’re buying.

 

[Genie]

I've started looking for used Tesla wall connectors and it seems there are some around me selling for $250-300. I think they are Gen 2 though, but from what I've read that shouldn't be a concern for me.

I think I’ve read Gen 2 have an advantage for power sharing?
A new TWC at $475 saves needing a 14-50R and GFI breaker, and seems price competive, I only have 1 but it said it could share “in the future”

 

[Emblem boy]

I think I’ve read Gen 2 have an advantage for power sharing?
A new TWC at $475 saves needing a 14-50R and GFI breaker, and seems price competive, I only have 1 but it said it could share “in the future”

Do you mean gen 3 has the power sharing capability?

Reviewed: Is Tesla Gen 3 Wall Connector Tesla's Best Charger?

We test out Tesla's new Gen 3 wall connector to see if it's better than the previous generation high-powered wall connector.

insideevs.com

I honestly have no plans to need to use it in the future, so I'm fine with a used gen 2 if I can get it for $250. Then all I need is a regular 60A breaker ($17) and a 4/3 Romex I believe. I'm correct that the gen 2 wall connector is also hardwired, similar to the gen 3 right?