n2mb_racing
Active Member
True. That's a good point. Though, Porsche might be my next choice, if they release a tri-motor Taycan.
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Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
- Thread starter gilscales
- Start date
You would probably get around 98% efficiency at 240V 48A. The car being turned on during charging consumes 250-350W which diminishes as a percentage of the charging power as the charging power goes up.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Could be. I drive 7,000 miles per year. 322 whr / mi. That's 2254 kwhr. Our electricity is 0.1 per kwhr, so $225. So, a 1% improvement in efficiency would save about $2 per year.
Not doing the math to be snarky, I was just curious. I can't really justify the wall connector now that I finally have a working 14-50 outlet and an extra UMC. Also, my electrician ran 6 awg wire, so I don't know if I could even run that much higher current than 40A. And my service was maxed out with one NEMA 14-50 outlet. We installed a NEMA 6-20 for the second car to avoid upgrading beyond 200A.
So I found someone will to sell me their gen 2 wall connector for $250. I'm also seeing Gen 3s for $300. I wonder if it's worth the additional $50. Gen 3 has an 18 foot cable instead of 24 feet. And gen 3 is also wireless for extra capabilities. But I'm pretty confident I won't be using any of those extra capabilities. No second EV expected anytime soon for us. But the idea of something newer is enticing.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Yeah, wifi for firmware upgrade seems like a good idea.
I wish they still made the 7 foot cord option. That might make it worth it for me.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
This is getting very off topic for this thread, but just to address your points quickly.Ok, but what about all of us who just acquired a M3SR, and received 3 months of Supercharging for free, who are still attempting to learn what to do. Do we just say “screw this” that’s what the 8y100k is for? Would they deny that warranty based on early ownership issue?
Without knowing an actual owner who lives near myself, (High Desert So. Calif) and without any home charging capacity, other than some questionable 110v outlets which have easily popped circuit breakers with simple power equipment. We’ve SC’d 3x so far and miscommunications between the SO & I, each time has been to 99% (2x) and 100% (1).
Also, the first and third time we got to 99% in an acceptable amount of time, but basically, the vehicle stated “calibrating” then “charging“ and on our very first charge did this repeatedly for 25-30 minutes? So unfamiliar and trying to figure out what to d, we sat there together watching the display and waiting. Finally the SO was “PO’d” and decided to just leave, as we’d been there nearly an hour and a half. As soon as she disconnected, it displayed 100%
And please all feel free to leave rude comments and tell me how I posTed in the wrong plac, et all. Trust me, I have looked, searched and I’m over it.
Carry on
It's well known charging to 100% can take a very long time, as such it's never recommended to charge to such at superchargers (especially if others are waiting!) The reason has to do with how battery charging works (it changes to constant voltage near end of charge, and speed slows to a trickle) and battery capacity estimation (battery balancing, etc).
Think intuitively of how you fill a bucket with a hose, it's very difficult to fill it with full flow all the way to 100% full without spilling a drop, but possible if you slow the flow down as you reach near full. For a lithium-ion battery, overflowing the bucket is not an option (that is overcharging and will damage the battery, in the worst case causing a fire).
Charge to 80% or however much you need and be on your way much quicker.
From the manual:
Model 3 Owner's Manual | Tesla
For other threads discussing this subject, you can find a ton here:
Search results for query: charge 100%
If you have a LFP car and see the recommendation by Tesla to charge to 100%, note that it isn't actually necessary unless you frequently need to run the car below 10%. I detailed here that Tesla only introduced that given LFP capacity estimates drift if not charged to 100% occasionally, which has caused some people to be stranded when car shut down unexpectedly (it's made worse given LFP cars generally come with the 16V battery which is much smaller capacity and thus will make the car completely disabled very shortly if HV battery shuts down unexpectedly).
I Picked up my Model 3 today. How can I tell if has LFP battery pack?
LFP to 100% Each Week—Assumptions?
davewill
Active Member
My question would be how used is it? The cords wear as they are coiled and uncoiled. The electronics get old and suffer from heating and cooling cycles. If the Gen2 has been used steadily for 6-7 years, that would be a big downside. If it was installed outside, even more so.
I'm sitting here in my air conditioned house in DFW where it is regularly over 100 degF this time of year. My house and A/C unit are both about 38 years old. So electronics can last a long time. Even outdoors.
If the seller can send you some pictures, that would be helpful. Even better if you can look at it locally.
If the seller can send you some pictures, that would be helpful. Even better if you can look at it locally.
That's one reason I've been a bit reluctant to leave my Mobile Connector in the car (the other reason is 6 lbs. of unnecessary weight). The interior varies from 40-150ºF depending on the season. On the other hand, my Wall Connector will vary from 50-150ºF in my garage depending on season and whether or not it is in use. And, all the electronics in the car experience the same thermal cycling or worse...and they tend to hold up just fine.
(I think I just talked myself into keeping the Mobile Connector in the vehicle.)
We have about a dozen 6 kW portable electric heaters at work that have SO cords and twist-lock connectors that get plugged, unplugged, and moved around every day 6 months out of the year. In the nearly two decades I've worked there, I don't recall a single SO cord or connector failure.
I've got extension cords that I've uncoiled and coiled countless times over the years and I've never experienced a broken wire, although I have had the sheathing pull out of the connectors before exposing the individual wires.
I typically don't buy used merchandise, but if a Wall Connector appeared to be okay and was known to work when it was removed from service, I would have a high degree of confidence that it would continue to work for the foreseeable future.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
The photos the beginning of this thread are exceptional. THANKS
They make the termination differences very clear, and have convinced me to only use receptacles that are designed so that the wire is pressed between two plates. A beefy plate and the V-shaped Hubbell are extra nice.
I will say though that I wish the wires did not have to take a 90 degree turn to enter the termination point. That ends up being a wrestling match that can lead to wire stress, not to mention being a PITA
They make the termination differences very clear, and have convinced me to only use receptacles that are designed so that the wire is pressed between two plates. A beefy plate and the V-shaped Hubbell are extra nice.
I will say though that I wish the wires did not have to take a 90 degree turn to enter the termination point. That ends up being a wrestling match that can lead to wire stress, not to mention being a PITA
You can get a deeper box that will make it easier. I regret that I did not.
I could not find the nice 'two plate' receptacle but I did find that if I twisted the strands tightly together, they did not separate when the screw was tightened.
You can also use ferrules to surround the wire.
I could not find the nice 'two plate' receptacle but I did find that if I twisted the strands tightly together, they did not separate when the screw was tightened.
You can also use ferrules to surround the wire.
Careful installation of screw-down wire clamping should work without excessive heat. The plate clamp as used in the Hubbell and Bryant 14-50 (but not 6-50) receptacles is a nice-to-have improvement that makes it easier to avoid errors in installation, but it not as essential as the other key feature to look for.
That other key feature is full size brass contacts to the plug blades. No amount of carefulness of installation will compensate for half size steel contacts that cause more resistance (and therefore heat) at high amperages. These half size steel contacts are found in Leviton 279-S00 (14-50) and 5374 (6-50) receptacles have half size steel contacts; any receptacle with full size brass contacts will be an improvement in this aspect.
See the photos in post #60 of this thread.
So I found a charg point home flex for $200 which seems like a good deal as well. The app looks to have a lot of functionality.
It's also hardwired and can do up to 50A(48A being the max for my model Y). I have the J1772 adapter.
So I'll use that, get a regular 60A breaker (~$20), and get a 4/3 Romex that should be able to handle the 48A.
It's also hardwired and can do up to 50A(48A being the max for my model Y). I have the J1772 adapter.
So I'll use that, get a regular 60A breaker (~$20), and get a 4/3 Romex that should be able to handle the 48A.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
davewill
Active Member
It's only inconvenient if you take it on and off every time. If you leave it on, then it's no big deal.
Gauss Guzzler
Safety Score = 42
No one else is chiming in so I will. You should change something in your plan, “4”, “3”, “Romex”, and/or “60A”. They’re all wrong.
I recommend 4/2 Romex and 50A or 4/2 MC and 60A.
Hmm, why not Romex? I though the 4/3 was rated for 70A(54A derated)
And I'm looking for a Romex because I'll only be taking it through a foot of drywall and no conduit is needed for Romex.
See post 748
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
Do you still need to use it for a dryer though? If not, then it wouldn't really need to stay as a 10-30. I get why you are saying it can't go to 14-30 if you don't have the extra wire that a 14-30 would require, but the substitute for a 240V only outlet that an EV charging connection would...
teslamotorsclub.com
You are fine with 4/3 romex at 70(54) amps.Hmm, why not Romex? I though the 4/3 was rated for 70A(54A derated)
And I'm looking for a Romex because I'll only be taking it through a foot of drywall and no conduit is needed for Romex.
See post 748
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
Do you still need to use it for a dryer though? If not, then it wouldn't really need to stay as a 10-30. I get why you are saying it can't go to 14-30 if you don't have the extra wire that a 14-30 would require, but the substitute for a 240V only outlet that an EV charging connection would...
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