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Mobile Charger no longer included

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Ok, so I just want to see a guide for what is needed to install the Wall Charger. Just so I get it through my thick skull. I want to verify that I have 220 and learn how to do that, and from there, it should be a really short run, at least on the one side of the garage where the panel is, to a proper charger. And I may be able to use what is already there for that 14-50, but I don't know. Will do some researching and figure it out.
If you've got available space in your electrical panel, it's a pretty easy install to have a double 60a breaker installed. Putting the Wall Charger close by will keep costs down too. I used Tesla's approved electrician "Same Day Electric" here in Boise, and they did a great job. They do a ton of Tesla installs, and I'd highly recommend them. In/out within an hour and they handled the permit/inspection.

Here's mine right adjacent to the panel in my garage (car wash towel bar has since been removed!):

Charger.jpg
 
If you've got available space in your electrical panel, it's a pretty easy install to have a double 60a breaker installed. Putting the Wall Charger close by will keep costs down too. I used Tesla's approved electrician "Same Day Electric" here in Boise, and they did a great job. They do a ton of Tesla installs, and I'd highly recommend them. In/out within an hour and they handled the permit/inspection.

Here's mine right adjacent to the panel in my garage (car wash towel bar has since been removed!):

View attachment 796459
I have plenty of room in the panel. We are up in Hailey, and have used C&R electric up here, but I don't know if they have Tesla approval or that kinda thing. Don't know if your company goes up to Hailey. Will see.
 
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If you've got available space in your electrical panel, it's a pretty easy install to have a double 60a breaker installed. Putting the Wall Charger close by will keep costs down too. I used Tesla's approved electrician "Same Day Electric" here in Boise, and they did a great job. They do a ton of Tesla installs, and I'd highly recommend them. In/out within an hour and they handled the permit/inspection.

Here's mine right adjacent to the panel in my garage (car wash towel bar has since been removed!):

View attachment 796459
I also used a Tesla approved electrician. They told me over 75% of their current work is installing EV chargers here in Central Jersey. They also filled out the PS&G rebate paper work in a timely manner. When I mentioned that I get a 10% military discount at Home Depot they told me they do not purchase their supplies at Home Depot but gave me a 10% off military discount.
They were neat, prompt, and did an excellent job running 150 ft of #2 aluminum four conductor cable from my 200 amp basement breaker panel to my garage.
I find it hard to understand those spending over $60k+ for a EV and then using cheap electrical receptacles and risking a possible fire?
 

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I also used a Tesla approved electrician. They told me over 75% of their current work is installing EV chargers here in Central Jersey. They also filled out the PS&G rebate paper work in a timely manner. When I mentioned that I get a 10% military discount at Home Depot they told me they do not purchase their supplies at Home Depot but gave me a 10% off military discount.
They were neat, prompt, and did an excellent job running 150 ft of #2 aluminum four conductor cable from my 200 amp basement breaker panel to my garage.
I find it hard to understand those spending over $60k+ for a EV and then using cheap electrical receptacles and risking a possible fire?
I find it hard to understand those spending over $60k+ for a EV and then using cheap electrical receptacles and risking a possible fire?

Would love to know how using a properly installed 14-30 or 14-50 receptacle is considered cheap and a fire risk. If you choose to use a wall connector, cool, but using a charger plugged in to a 14-30 or 14-40 is not any more dangerous.
If it were, then anyone who has an electric dryer or electric range are just waiting for a fire to occur?

Will also edit since I noticed you had your connector wired with aluminum, not copper wire; hypocrite?
 
Honestly I think the GFCI rule should be changed for wall connectors. Who am I? This is just in my opinion if you hook up a wall charger not a mobile charger. It's a fixed device and you're not plugging and unplugging it ever.
It doesn't need to be changed, because that's already how it is! That code rule in NEC says that only a "receptacle" being installed for EV charging must use the GFCI breakers. Hard wired devices do not require that. And yes, it's for that reason that you brought up. They are not being unplugged, and there aren't wires or prongs exposed where people could touch them.

Would love to know how using a properly installed 14-30 or 14-50 receptacle is considered cheap and a fire risk.
Since you would love to know, here is the thread where you can learn all about it:

The cheap Leviton receptacle is garbage in at least three specific ways. The metal pieces inside that touch the prongs of a plug are narrower than most of the better brands, so it's a smaller connection point with the prongs of the plug that's in it, so less contact, more resistance and heat. Also, the mechanism that keeps tension on those pieces is weaker, so it does wear out faster. And the main one is that the screw mechanisms on the back for clamping onto the wires are just a flat screw, and when tightened onto the wires have a tendency to splay the strands of the wires out, losing contact with the screw, so it tends to cause bad loose wire connections. The better outlets force the wire into angled or cupped type of brackets, so as the screw is tightened, it forces the strands together, keeping a tighter connection.

So that is the key there when you used the phrase "properly installed". With the garbage Leviton outlet, it makes it much harder to get a proper install.
If you choose to use a wall connector, cool, but using a charger plugged in to a 14-30 or 14-40 is not any more dangerous.
It is. Just fundamentally the squeeze tension or a plug in a receptacle is weaker and more resistive than a hard wired screwed down wire in a lug. It always will be, so anything plug connected is going to be a bit weaker connection. And that is progressively more of a risk for higher current applications. That's why electric code has a maximum level of 60A for receptacles. The weak connection of plug in receptacle is too risky for higher amp stuff.

If it were, then anyone who has an electric dryer or electric range are just waiting for a fire to occur?
You're not being rational here. We're talking comparative. One thing can be worse or riskier than something else (comparative), without meaning that it is automatically horrifically dangerous. Two things can both be pretty safe, but one is safer than the other.

Will also edit since I noticed you had your connector wired with aluminum, not copper wire; hypocrite?
Instead of name calling and insulting, it would help to get the full picture. Here's what was said:
running 150 ft of #2 aluminum four conductor cable from my 200 amp basement breaker panel to my garage.
He said that was to his garage. @Kairide you made the assumption that meant that it was aluminum all the way into the final device, but he did not say that. This is a common and acceptable way to do long installation runs over 100 feet. Breakers and subpanels do have lugs that are made to take either copper or aluminum. So you can do most of the distance of a circuit for 150 feet with aluminum to get to a subpanel in the garage. And then you finish off the last several feet with a copper connection to the outlet or wall connector.

*EDIT*
@Rocky_H, disagreements are all part of the back and forth in a forum. It would be helpful though to add insight to what your point of view is rather then just clicking a button.
It would be helpful for you have a touch of patience while I am typing and posting my response. I'm not just shooting snarky one-liners like you're doing.
 
I have plenty of room in the panel. We are up in Hailey, and have used C&R electric up here, but I don't know if they have Tesla approval or that kinda thing. Don't know if your company goes up to Hailey. Will see.
I wouldn't sweat it if you don't have a Tesla "approved" sparky in your area. The install is pretty straight forward and any licensed contractor should be able to handle it.
 
It doesn't need to be changed, because that's already how it is! That code rule in NEC says that only a "receptacle" being installed for EV charging must use the GFCI breakers. Hard wired devices do not require that. And yes, it's for that reason that you brought up. They are not being unplugged, and there aren't wires or prongs exposed where people could touch them.
I should have been clear I was talking about my 6-50 outlet install from a couple weeks ago. So it's new. My wall charger is on a different wall and was thinking if my wife ever got an EV I would either swap my Chargepoint for a Tesla charger in the hardwired spot. Then put the 6-50 cord back on the Chargepoint and mount it on the 6-50 I had done at the same time.
 
The cheap Leviton receptacle is garbage in at least three specific ways. The metal pieces inside that touch the prongs of a plug are narrower than most of the better brands, so it's a smaller connection point with the prongs of the plug that's in it, so less contact, more resistance and heat. Also, the mechanism that keeps tension on those pieces is weaker, so it does wear out faster. And the main one is that the screw mechanisms on the back for clamping onto the wires are just a flat screw, and when tightened onto the wires have a tendency to splay the strands of the wires out, losing contact with the screw, so it tends to cause bad loose wire connections. The better outlets force the wire into angled or cupped type of brackets, so as the screw is tightened, it forces the strands together, keeping a tighter connection.

So that is the key there when you used the phrase "properly installed". With the garbage Leviton outlet, it makes it much harder to get a proper install.

It is. Just fundamentally the squeeze tension or a plug in a receptacle is weaker and more resistive than a hard wired screwed down wire in a lug. It always will be, so anything plug connected is going to be a bit weaker connection. And that is progressively more of a risk for higher current applications. That's why electric code has a maximum level of 60A for receptacles. The weak connection of plug in receptacle is too risky for higher amp stuff.
My comment about using aluminum, instead of copper was meant prove the point of the hypocrisy of the post. But it actually helped prove my point with your statements as well.

@howardnj stated: "I find it hard to understand those spending over $60k+ for a EV and then using cheap electrical receptacles and risking a possible fire?"

To that I say; I find it hard to understand those spending over $60k+ for a EV and then $400 on a Wall Connector and using cheaper aluminum wire and risking a possible fire?

I agree you can have 2 safe options, where one could be deemed safer statistically. But not in a manner that will be relevant in real life. Yes, a hard wired connection is safer, but not in a way that should affect your choice. If you want to live your life doing what is statistically safer, you'd never drive a car anyways. You have a higher chance of dying in a car accident then flying.
Back to your point that using aluminum wire is safe and fully acceptable. I agree, but using copper wire is safer. Will that stop people from using aluminum wire, nope and it shouldn't. Just as people should feel safe using a receptacle charger.

You're not being rational here. We're talking comparative. One thing can be worse or riskier than something else (comparative), without meaning that it is automatically horrifically dangerous. Two things can both be pretty safe, but one is safer than the other.
Like copper vs aluminum? Does that mean you are cheeping out if you use aluminum vs copper wiring?


It would be helpful for you have a touch of patience while I am typing and posting my response. I'm not just shooting snarky one-liners like you're doing


You mean a one liner....like that?
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Kairide
The Gen 3 HPWC is terminated with copper wire in my garage.
#2 aluminum is only used from the 200 Amp breaker panel in the basement to the 100 Amp sub panel in the garage.
It is lighter, cheaper, easier to work with, meets local codes and is used for long runs.
A permit was required and the entire job passed inspection.
I understand completely and wouldn't have any hesitation using aluminum myself, especially with the prices these days of wire. I was just using that as an example where using an alternate, cheaper method, doesn't mean it's realistically a bigger fire risk.

You can have a NEMA 14-30 or 14-50 installed per code and pass inspection. It won't be anymore of a fire risk then using aluminum vs copper wire. That's just the point I was making.
 
You mean a one liner....like that?
I wouldn't have done that. It was not in my original reply. I had to add that as an edit after the fact, needing to respond to your false accusation. I was taking the time to research and respond. Finding the appropriate links to other informative threads about the build details of various brands of outlets and what makes them better or worse, find the other relevant quotes from a couple of other posters, etc. I was typing up my responses when you let fly with that one liner falsely accusing me of just disliking your post without giving any explanation. If you would have waited and had some patience, you would have been able to just see the response instead of further demonstrating your bad attitude.
 
is going to be a bit weaker connection.
A weaker connection does not mean it's dangerous. Eventually, in unlimited time with unlimited outlets, there will be more problems than with hardwired units, but a slightly increased risk of a problem does not mean dangerous. In real life applications, for real people, one is not so significantly weaker as to be a danger to the user. Much ado about nothing to gain points in some "competition" between Team Wall Connector and Team Mobile Connector.
 
What you're seeing makes you think that, but that's not how that works in reality. You won't have to set it every time.

When you unplug, sure, the display will then default back to DISPLAYING the standard highest amps your car is capable of handling. That's what it always shows when you are not plugged in. But the car has already created a saved amp setting tagged to that GPS location when you changed it during charging. So if you were to plug back in again, it would drop back down to that reduced level you set before because it's using that saved setting.

The setting of scheduled or immediate charging is also set that way to create a saved entry at a location, because people may go back and forth with plugging in at home and at work, and it can have those settings of amps and schedule set per location.

But you do get the warnings from people here because that's how it is supposed to work, but has been seen to be not very reliable long term. Sometimes a software update in the car accidentally loses people's saved amp settings. Or the car's GPS detection is a little off, and it thinks the car is a few houses away and isn't using the location setting at your house. So it's not a good idea to leave your charging equipment configured wrong and try to rely on that adjusted setting in the car all the time.
That’s what breakers are for. If breakers weren’t a reliable safety device a lot more houses would burn down. I would have burned down a few by now with car charging and space heater overloads.
 
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Spoke with SA today and it was stated that if you haven't RECEIVED your Tesla by the 04/17/2022 a MC will NOT be included. Even if you ordered before that date.
People have taken delivery in here after 4/17 and said they had it included. Goes to show even SAs don’t necessarily have the correct information….
 
The Mobile Connector will be supplied with cars ordered before April 28
Price drop for Mobile Connector to $200 and more connectors included (5-15 and 14-50)
Note - new bundle is not available until August
New Mobile Connector bundle and Wall Charger can be ordered with the car
New price $400 for Wall Charger too ($95 price reduction)

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