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Model 3 Performance Waiting Room

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Is there any correlation between the estimated delivery date on the ordering webpage and the date they assign you after you order? It says July-September right now for a Performance model then I got assigned an estimated delivery date of Oct7 - Nov18 when I ordered. That's not even in the ballpark of their estimate on the webpage.
 
Is there any correlation between the estimated delivery date on the ordering webpage and the date they assign you after you order? It says July-September right now for a Performance model then I got assigned an estimated delivery date of Oct7 - Nov18 when I ordered. That's not even in the ballpark of their estimate on the webpage.
Seemingly, no... but I would be willing to bet that your first EDD update will bring your date much closer.

Also funny to note that the Model S Plaid is still showing a date on their website of June-August. The damn thing is so fast, you can pick it up last month!
 
How many miles are you guys (that drove over 200 miles hahahaha) (not laughing at the poor guy that got the nail in the tire in less then 50 miles) getting out of a set of tires? Is there a better tire for longevity. The 480 per tire has me a bit concerned if they last 9k miles or even 20k for that matter. I will be Driving around 30-36k per year.
Only commenting on mileage and that the company appears to have many people who love their (winter) tires. Nokian One tires are rated at 80000 miles and they come with a pothole warranty.

 
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Seemingly, no... but I would be willing to bet that your first EDD update will bring your date much closer.

Also funny to note that the Model S Plaid is still showing a date on their website of June-August. The damn thing is so fast, you can pick it up last month!
So many plaids are available right now. They seem to have overproduced them. Maybe to get model S waiters to switch a plaid right now for 30k more.

 
So many plaids are available right now. They seem to have overproduced them. Maybe to get model S waiters to switch a plaid right now for 30k more.

I noticed the same thing dnstommy....On the order page for my area (Naples) FL, there were this morning 11 Models S's, just checked right now, there's 3. Thats strange that 8 sold today?🤔
 
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So many plaids are available right now. They seem to have overproduced them. Maybe to get model S waiters to switch a plaid right now for 30k more.

Yep - I was looking at those a few weeks ago, and there were dozens. Looks like there are only 14 left now! REALLY tempting, but I want the lighter, more nimble Model 3 right now.... I think :)
 
Yep - I was looking at those a few weeks ago, and there were dozens. Looks like there are only 14 left now! REALLY tempting, but I want the lighter, more nimble Model 3 right now.... I think :)
If I still lived in Florida, I’d probably do it. Track 15 minutes away. Sunny most of the year. But in vermont I could only enjoy the power of the plaid 4 months a year.
 
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B93FD73B-2127-4A1B-8B67-20228F6CFAC4.gif

My Tesla got confused while in a drive through lane. Can’t believe a semi came and ran over my car!
 
If I still lived in Florida, I’d probably do it. Track 15 minutes away. Sunny most of the year. But in vermont I could only enjoy the power of the plaid 4 months a year.
The Model S in any variant is nice, but for us personally, its really too large. Also can't justify double the price. For the $140-150K I feel the Taycan is a better car in ways. For $65K the M3P is a great car.....IF I can get one assembled correctly !!
 
I have a model 3 Performance in a Hold state. I want a mid July delivery at the Scottsdale Raintree delivery center at the earliest. Does anyone know what the earliest delivery date I would get if I release the hold today?
Unfortunately - it's really tough to say since there are a bunch of factors that are taken into how a VIN is allocated. If you don't have a need-by date, I would say to just release the hold when you're ready. When I moved to an LR, it took me one hour for Tesla to assign me a VIN.
 
So I'm considering tinting the roof, any recommendations on a percentage? since the roof is already pretty dark, I'm just doing it for more heat reduction purposes.
I was just debating on what % tint I wanted to go with before I saw your post.

As for the roof, although pricer, definitely go with 3M crystalline for the best heat "rejection" film. Unique tech.

Unlike other materials, even ceramic (although I'll be using ceramic tint for the sides and front) those materials will eventually absorb the heat (saturation) after some time. Ceramic is still superior to dyed tint and the ideal choice overall.

Since the top portion of the roof glass is tinted already, I may go with a lighter 50% film + assuming the stock tinted glass roof is ~35% so that you can still enjoy the sky view, while the rear window lower portion remains at 50% so that you can still see out of it ok, for what it's worth despite the rear being a bad blind spot as it is.

To calculate the actual VLT of the glass with film applied to it, you need to mutiply the VLT of the window tint applied by the VLT of the glass.

Ex. Applying a 50% film to the stock glass with a ~35% (assuming) tint to it, you would multiply 50% x 35% = (0.50×0.35)x100 = 17.5%.

So the stock glass and window tint would have a combined VLT of 17.5%, which is pretty dark actually, but may be proper for the roof in a hot climate...

I think I'll go with:

80% Windshield

20% Front sides
20% Rear sides

50% Rear Window = 17.5% Top Rear Roof Glass. -OR-
35% Rear Window = 12.25% Top Rear Roof Glass.

For some reference:

Window Tint.PNG

* As you may already know the tint % limit varies from State to State. Some jurisdictions are okay with going as dark as you want for the rears, but just the two fronts have to be at a certain %. I've had really dark >20% tint in all my cars for decades and never had an issue. - Some states have a limit of 24%, which means that IF the stock tinted factory glass is ~35%, you'd only be able to apply a 70% film on top of the stock 35% tinted glass = 24.5%. But yea... no one really cares.

Hope that helps.
 
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I was just debating on what % tint I wanted to go with before I saw your post.

As for the roof, although pricer, definitely go with 3M crystalline for the best heat "rejection" film. Unique tech.

Unlike other materials, even ceramic (although I'll be using ceramic tint for the sides and front) those materials will eventually absorb the heat (saturation) after some time. Ceramic is still superior to dyed tint and the ideal choice overall.

Since the top portion of the roof glass is tinted already, I may go with a lighter 50% film + assuming the stock tinted glass roof is ~35% so that you can still enjoy the sky view, while the rear window lower portion remains at 50% so that you can still see out of it ok, for what it's worth despite the rear being a bad blind spot as it is.

To calculate the actual VLT of the glass with film applied to it, you need to mutiply the VLT of the window tint applied by the VLT of the glass.

Ex. Applying a 50% film to the stock glass with a ~35% (assuming) tint to it, you would multiply 50% x 35% = (0.50×0.35)x100 = 17.5%.

So the stock glass and window tint would have a combined VLT of 17.5%, which is pretty dark actually, but may be proper for the roof in a hot climate...

I think I'll go with:

80% Windshield

20% Front sides
20% Rear sides

50% Rear Window = 17.5% Top Rear Roof Glass. -OR-
35% Rear Window = 12.25% Top Rear Roof Glass.

For some reference:

View attachment 825196
* As you may already know the tint % limit varies from State to State. Some jurisdictions are okay with going as dark as you want for the rears, but just the two fronts have to be at a certain %. I've had really dark >20% tint in all my cars for decades and never had an issue. - Some states have a limit of 24%, which means that IF the stock tinted factory glass is ~35%, you'd only be able to apply a 70% film on top of the stock 35% tinted glass = 24.5%. But yea... no one really cares.

Hope that helps.
So you would have two different films on the back rear glass? Tinting the nontinted rear window but a different percentage for the upper portion of that rear glass?
 
So you would have two different films on the back rear glass? Tinting the nontinted rear window but a different percentage for the upper portion of that rear glass?

One film. Since the roof area (Section A) has tinted glass already, by applying a 50% film over that area will make it 17.5%, while the lower half (Section B) will be 50%.

* This calculation is assuming that the tinted stock glass on the roof is ~35% or so...

Some people tint only (Section B) the lower half, but I prefer to just use one whole piece to cover the entire area.

M3 Rear Window.PNG