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I don't want to scare anyone, but I must share what happened today: I picked up my LR and within 6.3 miles of driving the car started shaking and shuddering really bad from the rear, followed by stalling out and a host of error messages: "vehicle shutting down, rear motor power reduced, pull over safely, exiting the car, and re-entering may restore power". The car was towed to the service center. I will update what they find in a few days. As a side note, a little icon of a turtle shows up with the "power reduced".
 
6g which what tesla recommend for maximum. The builder ran the wire and then confirm with me if we required copper wire which we did. The wire is correct. They did both the Nema 1450 and hardwire with the same type of wire. But I’m glad you asked that, because that 50amp breaker was scolding hot when it tripped. Which make sense. Not sure, but this could be one of reason for issue with fire. Highly doubt it, but, that charger has been 100% fine since install. Never had one issue with our model Y or 3. This is the first time and since we had the model s. This happened possible while were gone. But to change the setting either tesla did it remotely with a firmware update which is dangerous if they did, as that could cause a fire if the breaker didn’t trip. Under no circumstances show it ever be Changed without some confirming that change. Issue like this, I don’t tolerate well. It’s not excuse for that. I would rather it have not allowed charging than change the amp up like that. Then I couldn’t get access to the firmware IP address. Resetting it did nothing, I had to take the faceplate off and wait a few minutes, then it allow me back into it. And sure enough it was set to 48amps somehow. I’ll call tesla energy tomorrow about it. This one is stuck broadcasting its WiFi signal. Now my other wall connector, same exact one for our model Y is working flawlessly.
Sorry you're dealing with this. It's very unfortunate. I thought a NEMA 14-50 is only capable of charging at 40 amps max regardless of charger? Does your NEMA outlet have GFCI protection? I believe 6 gauge is code for a 50 amp breaker, but running 48 amps through it is too close for comfort. I'm getting a 60 amp breaker and running 4 gauge wire.
 
I don't want to scare anyone, but I must share what happened today: I picked up my LR and within 6.3 miles of driving the car started shaking and shuddering really bad from the rear, followed by stalling out and a host of error messages: "vehicle shutting down, rear motor power reduced, pull over safely, exiting the car, and re-entering may restore power". The car was towed to the service center. I will update what they find in a few days. As a side note, a little icon of a turtle shows up with the "power reduced".
bummer dude!! Keep us informed
 
I don't want to scare anyone, but I must share what happened today: I picked up my LR and within 6.3 miles of driving the car started shaking and shuddering really bad from the rear, followed by stalling out and a host of error messages: "vehicle shutting down, rear motor power reduced, pull over safely, exiting the car, and re-entering may restore power". The car was towed to the service center. I will update what they find in a few days. As a side note, a little icon of a turtle shows up with the "power reduced".

Wow. Hope they figure it out. Really sucks but it is a one off issue.

Remember the turtle is there to remind you that you drive an LR.
 
I don't want to scare anyone, but I must share what happened today: I picked up my LR and within 6.3 miles of driving the car started shaking and shuddering really bad from the rear, followed by stalling out and a host of error messages: "vehicle shutting down, rear motor power reduced, pull over safely, exiting the car, and re-entering may restore power". The car was towed to the service center. I will update what they find in a few days. As a side note, a little icon of a turtle shows up with the "power reduced".
Ahhh ok I saw your post on Twitter. I hope they fix it quickly. Another plaid had this same issue today as well, YouTube “The Pollard family”. His car did the same. This software is not where it’s at…. I know not everyone is experiencing issue. But for some it’s bad. I’m no way, shape or form, new to tesla. This plaid is our 5th tesla. However, I love this car like nothing else. I just want it to work. My 2nd M3P was absolutely flawless.
 
Wow. Hope they figure it out. Really sucks but it is a one off issue.

Remember the turtle is there to remind you that you drive an
Ahhh ok I saw your post on Twitter. I hope they fix it quickly. Another plaid had this same issue today as well, YouTube “The Pollard family”. His car did the same. This software is not where it’s at…. I know not everyone is experiencing issue. But for some it’s bad. I’m no way, shape or form, new to tesla. This plaid is our 5th tesla. However, I love this car like nothing else. I just want it to work. My 2nd M3P was absolutely flawless.
Yeah that would be me! I have to check this out, wow, what timing!! This is my 4th Tesla as well, and I have a Plaid queued up too!
 
The spoiler is wiped down and gleaming in the FL Sunshine! It won’t let me upload the video walk around I did.
 

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Sorry you're dealing with this. It's very unfortunate. I thought a NEMA 14-50 is only capable of charging at 40 amps max regardless of charger? Does your NEMA outlet have GFCI protection? I believe 6 gauge is code for a 50 amp breaker, but running 48 amps through it is too close for comfort. I'm getting a 60 amp breaker and running 4 gauge wire.
6 gauge is fine for 50amp and is the minimum for 60amp. The problem here is either the car did something and made the charger revert to maximum power from the wall connector gen 3 or the WCgen3 did something. Either way, it’s a bad experience. Now, my spouse loves tesla just like me, but this is the first time ever that I could hear the nervousness about charging overnight after that issue. I can’t get upset about the nervousness, as we sleep on the other side of that wall. So just out of an abundance of caution, I’m not using that wall connector until I can gather more info into how, and why that happened. 120v charging tonight 😬😬
 
Sorry you're dealing with this. It's very unfortunate. I thought a NEMA 14-50 is only capable of charging at 40 amps max regardless of charger? Does your NEMA outlet have GFCI protection? I believe 6 gauge is code for a 50 amp breaker, but running 48 amps through it is too close for comfort. I'm getting a 60 amp breaker and running 4 gauge wire.
I am wondering if the builder did not know the 14-50 outlet was being used to charge an EV. A 50A breaker for the 14-50 is not inherently bad, but for sustained loads like EV charging, the circuit must be de-rated by 20% so the circuit should have been installed with a 40A breaker.
 
I don't want to scare anyone, but I must share what happened today: I picked up my LR and within 6.3 miles of driving the car started shaking and shuddering really bad from the rear, followed by stalling out and a host of error messages: "vehicle shutting down, rear motor power reduced, pull over safely, exiting the car, and re-entering may restore power". The car was towed to the service center. I will update what they find in a few days. As a side note, a little icon of a turtle shows up with the "power reduced".
Where the hell is the terror emoji.
 
I am wondering if the builder did not know the 14-50 outlet was being used to charge an EV. A 50A breaker for the 14-50 is not inherently bad, but for sustained loads like EV charging, the circuit must be de-rated by 20% so the circuit should have been installed with a 40A breaker.
They knew it was EV charging. We had one hardwire 60amp breaker ran and one 50amp breaker ran for the 14-50. All with copper wire. This seems to be a wall connector issue. The wall connector reverted to max 48amp on its own. Never have I ever had this issue before. What I’m confused about is, if they ran a 40amp breaker for 14-50 socket which requires a 50amp breaker wouldn’t that cause issue? I thought the point of the 50 portion was that the breaker is for 50amps. That way anything that plugs into that outlet has up to 50amp of power. So putting a 40amp breaker in, and then plugging in something that does go up to 40amps or slightly more would cause a issue. The older model S mobile connector would pull a 40amp on a 50amp breaker. So in that case you would have to de rate the car as well down. Because that means it would only be able to pull 32amp. The new gen 2 mobile connectors can only pull a maximum of 32amps thru that mobile connector. I’m no electrician so I’m very interested in know more about this… if you can please go more into detail. @omarsultan
 
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Ahhh ok I saw your post on Twitter. I hope they fix it quickly. Another plaid had this same issue today as well, YouTube “The Pollard family”. His car did the same. This software is not where it’s at…. I know not everyone is experiencing issue. But for some it’s bad. I’m no way, shape or form, new to tesla. This plaid is our 5th tesla. However, I love this car like nothing else. I just want it to work. My 2nd M3P was absolutely flawless.
Think he said his was the 12V went bad
 
I am wondering if the builder did not know the 14-50 outlet was being used to charge an EV. A 50A breaker for the 14-50 is not inherently bad, but for sustained loads like EV charging, the circuit must be de-rated by 20% so the circuit should have been installed with a 40A breaker.
I'm not precisely sure, as this is my first EV, and I'm just learning about necessary wiring/circuits around various amp loads. I've seen plenty of NEMA 14-50 applications with 6 gauge wire. But code requires the outlet to have its own GFCI protection (regardless of any GFCI protection at the charger). So that protection should have tripped with a 48A load on an outlet only rated for a 40A load.

EDIT: I realize @Tholland is trying to figure out why or how the load was increased, but I'm also focused on the protection that should be in place to prevent a fire or other bad things from happening.
 
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