jebinc
Well-Known Member
@AnselmDante That’s just orgasmic!It is now August the 18th. My car arrives at the SC today.
Giggidy,
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@AnselmDante That’s just orgasmic!It is now August the 18th. My car arrives at the SC today.
Giggidy,
You might have to put His and Hers stickers on them to avoid early morning confusionTook delivery of my Plaid over the weekend. Here it is next to my wife's LR. Can anyone tell them apart?
View attachment 697974
Definitely a 50a breaker on a 14-50 circuit. The 80% for continuous draw is for the weakest portion of the circuit (not the breaker). ie: If the recep is rated 50a and the wire 60a you can draw 40a continuous. Size the breaker for the weakest link so in that example the breaker is 50a.The things I’m not getting is, the outlet is rated for 50amps max. it should only pull 40amps thru a 14-50. It can pull 40amps continuously and handle 50amps peak.. you should not put a 40amp breaker on a 14-50 outlet. If you did that then, by code could only pull 80% which would be 32 amps. which is to low for the max of that outlet Which by code is incorrect. the item you plug in of course can range from 0-50amps. And can pull 32 if that’s all it needs. That was my understanding. But Im going to call tesla tomorrow and see what they think.
I wonder if a hare will appear if a plaid were to break down.Wow. Hope they figure it out. Really sucks but it is a one off issue.
Remember the turtle is there to remind you that you drive an LR.
Awesome, were any of the red ones plaid? Also have your found and decent detailers in the area?I happened to stumble on a discrete location in Chicago Suburbs (unmarked warehouse~y place) near a SC with 8 Plaids and a LR, which seems to have been unloaded from a truck in a parking lot. 3 Reds (looks awesome in person), 3 Whites and 2 MSMs with mostly 21's and a few 19's. Lucky folks around me should be getting these puppies soon. Mine is still showing Nov 10-30 although it is early April #1147 order.. Cant wait...... Cheers!
Congrats! Excited for you. Can you please share the first few digits of your RN (e.g. 11457xxxx) and the 3 or 4 digits after MF in your VIN (e.g. MF4395xx)?A VIN did, in fact, come within hours. Delivery scheduled for August 27!
No worries. I mostly agree with you. The engineering is great no doubt. The interior doesn’t look like it’s worth 2m$. I think this is where the Bugatti merger will help Rimac the most.Well the technology in it is quite advanced to be honest. Plus I don't care what you say, but building, engineering, and producing the world's largest production single piece carbon monoqoque can't be cheap, plus all of the other battery and powertrain technology that goes into this. The battery is only 120 KWH, and it makes 1.4 MW!
Here is some of the stuff they do, and the reason why Hyundai, Koenigsegg, Porsche, Bugatti, Pininfarina, Aston Martin, etc.. have invested and are using Rimac's technology:
Home | Rimac Technology
Dedicated to providing high-performance automotive technology solutions to global OEMs.www.rimac-automobili.com
And personally, and as respectfully as I possibly can, I disagree with the notion that the world isn't ready for an EV hypercar. I think this the perfect prime timing for the EV hypercars to make their debuts. The Aspark Owl with its 1.72 second 0-60 w/ rollout (and 1.9 w/o) on street tires is already in production and beginning deliveries. Tesla's own hypercar, the Roadster, is due to be out in the next 2 years, the Nevera is about to go into production and so is the Battista, and the most exciting to me personally, the Lotus Evija, will be going into production this year as well. If the world was skeptical before, they definitely aren't now, with the headlines the Nevera is making. Talk about making a LaFerrari look seriously outdated and slow! And this is just the first one!
Totally agreed. I can't wait to see what comes of this merger. Can you imagine what the Chiron's successor is going to be? Even if it's a hybridized W16, that would be well over 2000 hp, and if you put the Rimac's rear axle in the front you're talking 2,300+ hp. I think for Rimac's side, the merger will help them well, even with just the experience and the size of VW AG.No worries. I mostly agree with you. The engineering is great no doubt. The interior doesn’t look like it’s worth 2m$. I think this is where the Bugatti merger will help Rimac the most.
I think Rimac as the new Lotus. Lotus has a big business of engineering solutions and Rimac looks like they are getting a big chunk of that on the EV side. Lotus might have developed the Evija to show they can offer EV solution to potential commercial partners idk. It is the only commercial succes thus far with 130 cars sold but Lotus is a well known brand and the Evija looks like a million dollar car.
Maybe Tesla selling hypercar performance level in a 130k$ package is ultimately killing this market. Some people here think paying 40k$ extra for the performance of the Plaid over the LR is nonsense. Well the Rimac at 20 times the price sounds ridiculous if one looks only at the performance on paper.
One thing is for sure, when you need to discount the price of a 150 car production run, it’s not because people are rushing in to buy your product. I thought all had been sold long ago.
Excuse you? no hate? NO HATE?!I got a VIN hours after ordering (no hate please) and have been calling daily to see when it is in transit since LA to Scottsdale is basically same day. They told me last week that it was so I let my LR+ go to CarBuyerUSA instead of selling it retail. I assumed I could go a day without a car. It was not actually in transit and they heard about that. Yesterday I got someone who said she would send a message to logistics to see if that would help get it moving. Today it shows as left the factory and on its way. YMMV
I read this again. You have both a NEMA14-50 outlet AND your charger is hardwired? If that's right, and again focusing on protection, the gen 3 wall connector has built-in GFCI protection. The wall connector can run at 48A, so the onboard GFCI protection would be fine at that level.6g which what tesla recommend for maximum. The builder ran the wire and then confirm with me if we required copper wire which we did. The wire is correct. They did both the Nema 1450 and hardwire with the same type of wire. But I’m glad you asked that, because that 50amp breaker was scolding hot when it tripped. Which make sense. Not sure, but this could be one of reason for issue with fire. Highly doubt it, but, that charger has been 100% fine since install. Never had one issue with our model Y or 3. This is the first time and since we had the model s. This happened possible while were gone. But to change the setting either tesla did it remotely with a firmware update which is dangerous if they did, as that could cause a fire if the breaker didn’t trip. Under no circumstances show it ever be Changed without some confirming that change. Issue like this, I don’t tolerate well. It’s not excuse for that. I would rather it have not allowed charging than change the amp up like that. Then I couldn’t get access to the firmware IP address. Resetting it did nothing, I had to take the faceplate off and wait a few minutes, then it allow me back into it. And sure enough it was set to 48amps somehow. I’ll call tesla energy tomorrow about it. This one is stuck broadcasting its WiFi signal. Now my other wall connector, same exact one for our model Y is working flawlessly.
In MD, a 14-50 outlet requires its own GFCI protection, irrespective of GFCI protection at the charger. @Tholland is in MD, I mentioned the requirement under code because I knew it applied to him as well. I do not know what other states require. My question to @Tholland -- was the gen 3 hardwired or plugged into the 14-50? Sorry for multiple questions/answers. I just wanted my responses to be complete.you typically wouldn't have a GCFI breaker on a 14-50 receptacle, it's possible, you'd see a white button as well as the switches on the breaker. You definitely wouldn't see a GFCI in the plug itself. Most EV chargers, have built-in GFCI protection. When the unit is hardwired, there is no need for a GFCI breaker. If the unit is installed with a plug with a GFCI breaker, there can and will be faulty trips.
phew, i was getting a little worried about the electrical advice being put out there. @Tholland if you have a 14-50 receptacle, ensure you have a 50A breaker, along with the correct size gauge wire running to said receptacle. 50A outlet should be 6 gauge for any long distance. you can get away with 8 gauge if you use the higher temp (90 degree) wire for shorter runs (i.e., like 10ft), but you'd want the higher gauge for a longer run.
I think John Force has a limited run of cars that will do it even fasterIf you consider limited run$2.5 million dollars cars not sold in the USA production cars.
One has wider hips.Took delivery of my Plaid over the weekend. Here it is next to my wife's LR. Can anyone tell them apart?
View attachment 697974
I plan on removing my Plaid badge (on my Plaid) upon delivery using an emblem removal kit from amazon.Interesting Delivery!
Picked up my MS LR(?), MSM, 21s on Saturday, no major quality issues, but one thing that was a bit crazy......
it has a carbon spoiler and a Plaid badge!! (Yes I checked the VIN, it is my car)
I'm pretty sure its a badging mistake, seats are not Plaid, SW is for LR, and 0-60 is in the low 3s (although SW may limit that).
So unless I get motivated to take the car apart to see what the drivetrain looks like I'm assuming its a badging
mistake and not some Franken-Tesla with LR seats and SW and a Plaid drivetrain and badging.
Now the question is what do I do?
I'm leaning toward #2, but would be interested in hearing what folks on this thread think/would do?
- Keep it as is, its an interesting Tesla built combination that maybe has some value when I resell? (I'm guessing nobody would care unless they were inclined to re-badge anyway, which you could do yourself with a little $ and work)
- Remove the Plaid badge (nothing against those who want to rebadge their LRs, I just wouldn't do it...on my own )
- Modify the Plaid badge (PLAID-, PAID, PLAID? or maybe others from earlier in this thread)
Also, any advice on how to remove the badge if I go with #2 or #3?
(note I'm keeping the spoiler in all scenarios, it looks great on the car)
Overall the car is incredible, its the best car I've ever owned. A few things that stand out:
- Yoke is still a mix for me. Love it on the highway, love the visibility, but a few things I notice that are particularly annoying:
- If you drive up to a stop where you're had to turn the wheel sharply then put your blinker on, the arrows are upside down or vertical, its quite confusing selecting the correct signal, especially since you might need to activate the signal with the right hand.
- Maybe I'll get use to it, or will get use to turning the signals on earlier, but its definitely going to take re-learning
- Backing up the old fashion way, right arm across the passenger seat and looking out the back window doesn't work well because you can't spin the yoke (easily) with your left hand. Yes the backup camera is great, but I still like my eyes pointing in the direction the car is moving. Maybe I'll get over that and get use to using the camera.
- If I had to pick after just a few days of driving I think I would take a wheel and a signal lever, we'll see if that changes after 2 weeks, months, years (I guess it will be FSD by then so I won't care).
- Was worried about the ride quality of the 21" but they feel great, even on the rougher roads in NH, I will be buying winter rims/tires in the coming months though
- I find the audio system to be ok. I played with the EQ and got a sound that I thought was acceptable, but I'm definitely not getting the clarity and imaging that some people have said they've enjoyed about the system. That said its my car, so I'm not expecting audiophile quality while driving.