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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Knightowl
Whovian
Much to the chagrin of my wife I keep all my failed parts when replacement is needed.
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
Me too. So far I have a door with an enormous door ding and a rear bumper cover with the mirror image of a license plate stamped into it, in my store room. The bumper cover might come in handy some day. It's really not too badly damaged. The door I was going to practice my detailing skills on, but I haven't yet. The one value I did get out of keeping the door was getting to feel how incredibly light weight it was.
Knightowl
Whovian
Seems I have had another door handle give up the ghost on me. Driver side passenger door handle does not present and no sound at all from the handle when using the fob to unlock/lock/unlock. 2014 S85 95,673mi.
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
I changed my settings so the door handles don't auto present. If I touch the drivers door handle or double press the top of the fob then only the drivers handle presents. An additional double press extends the three other handles. I think this will go a long way towards handle reliability. The only problem is when they do finally break the warranty will have been long over. So far I'm planning on keeping the car 10+ years if it stays reasonably reliable.
Knightowl
Whovian
My settings are such that only the driver door is set to auto present, I love it so use it and expect that handle to fail more often than the others, but turns out failure is not always related to frequency of use, thus this latest failure.
I just got hit with the DC-DC Converter replacement (because the fuse blew and the fuse is not replaceable!!) for $2400. Admittedly, this is the first non-scheduled maintenance cost I've had on a car that rolled off the assembly line six years ago, but still... for a blown fuse!?!?!
Anyway, I'm wondering what other out-of-warranty costs that folks have encountered, especially on the early Model S's like mine? If it's going to be $2k-$3k a pop every time something goes wrong, then all of the fuel cost savings be eaten up very quickly.
Thanks, in advance, for info on the out-of-warranty cost of ownership of an older Tesla.
Mine is a Model S 85 (not performance, not signature) with air suspension, navigation/tech package, single charger.
Anyway, I'm wondering what other out-of-warranty costs that folks have encountered, especially on the early Model S's like mine? If it's going to be $2k-$3k a pop every time something goes wrong, then all of the fuel cost savings be eaten up very quickly.
Thanks, in advance, for info on the out-of-warranty cost of ownership of an older Tesla.
Mine is a Model S 85 (not performance, not signature) with air suspension, navigation/tech package, single charger.
Did you request that you keep the failed DC-DC converter so that you could either sell or repair it? (They have to return it to you if you ask for an out of warranty repair.)
I would send your request to them before you get there, so they know to not ship it off to be refurbished.
xAgyex
Member
MP3Mike, what year of MS do you have?
I agree if the costs will be up there for every thing then the fuel cost discussion is not really an honest discussion.
xAgyex
Member
Knightowl, the service team told me that slamming the doors closed can break the door handles too, so to be gentle. Basically these door handles are the weak point in the MS any year. So we all need to learn how to rebuild them and plan to do so hopefully no more than ones a year.
Knightowl
Whovian
Yeah I guessed as much for that also and anytime I give a ride I make sure to point out they need to be firm but gentle when shutting the door and not slam them like they are used to with other cars. Pretty sure this latest failure was a result of that as it was shut harder than I would have liked a couple days prior during a work event that I gave a couple coworkers a ride to.
The thanks for being nice
/sigh
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Assuming you are referring to the motor mounting bracket there is no reason for it to be steel, if properly designed, (and not over torqued by mistake), and the whole carriage is aluminum. You can't weld steel to aluminum, so it would have to be a bolt in unit, and then you have to protect from dissimilar metals interaction. Possible, but not necessary.
I tried that, too, as I am usually the only person in the car. But I often find myself putting things into the back seat, and I had gotten so spoiled by having all the handles present that it was very annoying to have to dig out the fob to unlock the other doors! And on the weekend, it would annoy my spouse to approach the car and be unable to enter, especially in rain or cold. Of course, I could avoid that by changing the setting on Friday afternoon, and back on Monday, but....How soon we become spoiled...First world problem!
I have about 9 more months on my warranty. Maybe the two passenger side door handles that have not yet failed will fail in that time, and then i will go back to driver only!
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
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