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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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My 2017 Model S is doing something very strange. When changing from my husband’s driver profile to mine, the battery will suddenly drop 20-50 miles. When I switch back to his profile, the mileage will immediately increase. I’ve tried looking the problem up, but can’t seem to find anyone who has experienced something similar. Any thought on what it might be or any simple fixes? We do have an upcoming service appointment.
 
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My 2017 Model S is doing something very strange. When changing from my husband’s driver profile to mine, the battery will suddenly drop 20-50 miles. When I switch back to his profile, the mileage will immediately increase. I’ve tried looking the problem up, but can’t seem to find anyone who has experienced something similar. Any thought on what it might be or any simple fixes? We do have an upcoming service appointment.
You likely have your husband's profile set to display "ideal" miles, while your profile is set to display "rated" miles. You should be able to change them to match in the display settings. (I would suggest using rated, as you aren't likely to ever get the "ideal" range.)
 
Hey. My Model S 2013 with MCU2 is tottally dead. It starts with turning off the esp and regen braking while driving. Next the car turned off the abs and power steering. It disappeared for a moment after charging at home, but when I started to drive just after few meters it came back. Then I tried to reboot it with the scrolls and it didn’t help. Tried to reboot by turning off with the turn off button on the screen for few minutes, didn’t help. Then I decided to restore factory settings. It didn’t helped, alerts are still there, it was a problem with parking brake for a moment, but it released it after around 2 minutes. Then tried to go reverse around 20 meters, when I stopped, it used parking brake forever and I can’t go anywhere cause it’s fighting with the rear brakes. When I tried to go forward slowly and open the driver’s door it showed me PRND on red color and PRND stopped working. After that I unplugged the 12v, charged it for 30 minutes. When I plugged it, the driver’s display stopped working too and still can’t use PRND. I can’t even turn off the vehicle on the screen, this option is frozen. Now I removed the parking brakes just to come back to the garage. I unplugged the 12v just to turn off the vehicle, because it was still using the front lights. I don’t know what to do. Tesla Service can take it on May, I know that I could make it much worse that it was before I touched anything, but if anyone could tell me something I could do it would be great. Regards.
 
I did this photo of the alerts before factory reset.
 

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It seems that the most recent failures are associated with the electronic parking brake. If you have not see this before then here is one good DIY guide how to get the electric motors running again. Worth to look similar discussion in this forum. If you can make the car running again then you better take it to service as the rest of the alerts are more for the service stuff to look for - like PTC heater, regenerative braking, etc. Good luck.

edit: have the 12V battery on charge as it this one dies then you definitely need new. Can you determine the date it was last changed (take a photo of the battery)? This might be the reason your screens have non functioning as well.
 
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I checked 12v battery today. It was 12.75V unplugged. After I plug it there was 14.8V, alerts are gone, driver’s screen came back, PRND on white and it was possible to drive, only GTW_w182, probably cause of the parking brakes unplugged. I plugged the brakes and when I get in to try to drive, driver’s screen was black and I could’t drive, there was many of the alerts again. Then check the 12v battery, it was 13.8V. I unplugged it to turn off screen and front lights. What should I do?
 
I checked again the 12v battery, but with unplugged DC cable. When I unplugged DC cable it was from 13.8V to 11.8V in few seconds. I think I should change 12v battery then. It will be on Tuesday. I’m going to change it and we’ll see. If it won’t help I will try to check grounding.
 
I checked again the 12v battery, but with unplugged DC cable. When I unplugged DC cable it was from 13.8V to 11.8V in few seconds. I think I should change 12v battery then. It will be on Tuesday. I’m going to change it and we’ll see. If it won’t help I will try to check grounding.
My 2012 MS P90 had an issue with the 12V battery almost a year ago. Tesla contacted me to get the battery replaced. After it was replaced it seemed ok, but a few months later the car was totally dead. After a minor struggle with Tesla they said I could bring it in. After a week of diagnosing they said it had a corroded battery connection to the frame! They resolved that and it has been fine since. 🤞
 
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I changed the 12v battery today. When I plug everything it started for a while with the dashboard and PRND was working. It was ready to drive, after a while or if I get out and get back in it didn’t want to shift P. I checked grounding in 2 places on the front left and front right. When I plugged it again dashboard and PRND were dead. It seems that it’s good only for few minutes when I plug 12v battery after at least few hours break. I had a problem with ptcheater and it’s on the alerts on service mode too, but is that possible that it doesn’t want to drive cause of the ptcheater?
 
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I changed the 12v battery today. When I plug everything it started for a while with the dashboard and PRND was working. It was ready to drive, after a while or if I get out and get back in it didn’t want to shift P. I checked grounding in 2 places on the front left and front right. When I plugged it again dashboard and PRND were dead. It seems that it’s good only for few minutes when I plug 12v battery after at least few hours break. I had a problem with ptcheater and it’s on the alerts on service mode too, but is that possible that it doesn’t want to drive cause of the ptcheater?
Doubtful, you'd have more problems charging.
Just curious, when the car is powered up, regardless of it able to drive or not, what is the voltage at the 12v battery?
 
I have a weird problem with my 2016 MS and was hoping for help on what might be wrong. When I got in the car today, I got a notice that Parking Assist is unavailable and the outside temp is showing -- (which means it is below -40F).

When I went into service mode I confirmed that all sensors were operational (green). Checking service alerts I see a number of errors for AmbientTempSns and activeAero. Pictures are attached.

Since I am out of warranty I was wondering if anyone had this problem before and if it is pointing to a defective temp sensor located in the front fascia. I had the temperature problem happen once before when I encountered /drove through drenching thunderstorms for 25 minutes coming back from Ohio last summer but it 'cleared' itself by the next day (and I didn't get the parking assist warning). This time is has been on (both parking assist and no temperature) for several days (its 30F now). And while I hadn't driven through pouring rain I did use a touchless car wash multiple times last week before it appeared so I am wondering if that sensor is sensitive/knocked out when it gets wet or if there is another connector in the front end of the car that might be the problem. Thanks for any help.
 

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