I'm looking for some help with my charge port. Recently, my charge port failed and I bought a new one OTC, and replaced it. The new charge port does not drop its latch pin the whole way, and I need to manually actuate the release the last couple of mm to retract the pin enough to remove the charging handle from the port. It does retract enough for charging handle insertion, but the handle still ends up moving the latch pin out of the way. Is this indicative of a defective charge port? The SC won't take it back if it's broken (not sure if that's legal) but before I do something like pursue small claims, I want to understand if there is some procedure either physically, or via toolbox to recalibrate the stepper/servo. It's clearly not binding, it's just not being commanded to actuate the full distance. Car is a ~17 S. See illustration attached over my pre-closeout photo. The release is currently in the closed position. It moved to the red position when commanded to release, but I have to further manually move it to the green position to release the charging handle fully.
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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Yes.
The latch mechanism is integral to the charge port, and its fitment is determined at component assembly time, as far as I can tell. Do you have actual insight into solving this issue or just trying to comcast troubleshoot? This isn't my first rodeo, and not the fist HV part I've serviced on this vehicle. I've already been to the service center and chatted to a couple of techs and they have not encountered this issue before, though who knows how experienced they are with older cars. I suspect this part is defective and that I will have to small claims them, however, I would like to see if anyone can confirm whether or not there is a procedure in toolbox to calibrate this system, or an internal adjustment. I don't want to buy a day of toolbox without knowing definitively that a calibration routine for this parts exist.
islandbayy
Active Member
Crazy, I've gotten defective parts OTC locally, and they were more than happy to switch them out. Can you try a different service center?
Although I have no experience with toolbox and when Tesla did change the charge port out on mine then they did had some computer adjustment on it. I would try to redeploy the car’s current software, it can be selected in the service menu. This might give similar result but as told I had no need for it.
Here is the technician description on the invoice:
-Updated the vehicle firmware, performed a calibration routine to the charge port door sensor. After repairs confirmed that the charge port door and charge port do work normally, without any issues.
I did do the CAN firmware redeploy as part of my initial install, since the firmware was not initially compatible.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Not everyone reads the instructions. Those that have often put the car info in their signature which would help with a reply.
I would think that if a toolbox adjustment was needed, it would be in the applicable SM section for replacing the charge port assy
I have purchased a new charge port because of poor fit and defective comolding of the seals. Note from my sig that this is for a new MS with the CCS adapter compliant door and may not be relevant to your car.
I have not installed it as when I took out the old one to try to fix the problems caused by a failed attempt by service to fix it, I noted that the SM was lacking in key respects.
I have not yet installed the new one, since I found a way to rig the door flush to my satisfaction.
Hi there!
Is this noise normal? My car sounds like an old delivery truck. I’ve been getting some strange looks. It’s a nice car, but the noises are odd.
The noise happens when I turn the steering wheel, especially in the parking garage, when I turn it all the way and drive forward or backward.
Is this noise normal? My car sounds like an old delivery truck. I’ve been getting some strange looks. It’s a nice car, but the noises are odd.
The noise happens when I turn the steering wheel, especially in the parking garage, when I turn it all the way and drive forward or backward.
Sounds like a motor straining. Does it sound like it's the wheel itself or at the front axle?
Hi. Can anyone tell me what hardware size is intended for mounting a front license plate on a 2024 model S long range, using the supplied front mount and decorative bracket? I did not receive any hardware. The service manual only says T20 but does not give the length, head diameter or thread info. Appreciate any help. Love to know what Tesla is supposed to supply stock.
islandbayy
Active Member
If you are near service, they will give you free of charge. Sorry I don't have specs. Mine plate holders used standard license plate bolts.
Good afternoon everyone!
I have a weird sound that seems to be connected to my AC in some way. It comes and goes throughout the course of a trip but is more consistent when the fan speed is low. The noise seems to come from the driver's side of the car which is the only reason I wasn't immediately thinking it was the blower. Any ideas?
I have a weird sound that seems to be connected to my AC in some way. It comes and goes throughout the course of a trip but is more consistent when the fan speed is low. The noise seems to come from the driver's side of the car which is the only reason I wasn't immediately thinking it was the blower. Any ideas?
Hank42
Legacy Supporter
Looking for some help resolving some errors after dropping the rear subframe to replace the LDU. These are the only errors I have left from the process and I believe are related to the Active Air suspension.
EPAS_d011_KFC_COMP_L2
EPAS_d010_KFC_COMP_L1
I get the RED Suspension icon that pops up from time to time. And also ~"Cannot raise/lower suspension - try again on next trip" alert. 9 out of 10 trips.
Compressor works. Tank is pressurized(I fixe that Schrader valve leak problem a while back). I'm guessing maybe the height adjustment sensors harness might be faulty from when I dropped the rear frame... But I'd expect different errors than the one's listed - which I'm GUESSING are compressor related.
EPAS_d011_KFC_COMP_L2
EPAS_d010_KFC_COMP_L1
I get the RED Suspension icon that pops up from time to time. And also ~"Cannot raise/lower suspension - try again on next trip" alert. 9 out of 10 trips.
Compressor works. Tank is pressurized(I fixe that Schrader valve leak problem a while back). I'm guessing maybe the height adjustment sensors harness might be faulty from when I dropped the rear frame... But I'd expect different errors than the one's listed - which I'm GUESSING are compressor related.
Hank42
Legacy Supporter
Thanks! Yeah, "EPAS" would indicate that - but I don't have any problems with my PS. These faults only show up in the service log when the air suspension icon is displaying an error on the console, so I thought they are related somehow. This is a 2012 - so way before any auto-steering etc.. So, kind of stumped - I'll triple check the fuses - maybe I missed something..
