Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

[GeekGirls]

I just picked up our Model S at the factory today and am enjoying getting to know her. So far it seems like an incredibly well designed and solidly built vehicle with a few kinks I expect are related to ramping up production. The issues I've noticed so far:

Bluetooth audio stuttering. Playing back music from my iPad via Bluetooth results in periodic stuttering that most assuredly does not happen with other Bluetooth connections. Using the same device in our Lexus RX450h results in flawless audio playback.

Passenger-side mirror sticks. The driver-side mirror responded as expected to adjustments, but the passenger mirror would move in unexpected directions or stick when adjusted.

Charging cable locked by brief button touch. The first time I attempted to remove the charge cable I did so by briefly tapping the charge cable button. The light cycled through blue, then white, then back to green. Pressing the button again, even holding it down as is evidently the correct procedure, wouldn't return to a white state. I had to select "Stop Charging" from the main touchscreen before I could unlock and remove the charging cable.

Panoramic roof sticks when opening. Attempting to open the roof to any state (vent, comfort, or fully open) requires two attempts, the first time the roof sticks just as it's starting to open and still shows as closed. The second attempt works as expected.

Outdoor temperature reading is absurd. While charging this evening, I've seen an outdoor temperature reading of 82F while it can't be more than 60F or so.

Projected range resets to "instant." After changing to show my average projected range I find that on returning to the energy screen later the projected range always resets to instant rather than remembering my preference.

Call Tesla service indicated while adjusting height. Our driveway is steep and the Model S will bottom out unless raised. I attempted to raise the vehicle to "Very High" and lock it in Jack mode to prevent auto-leveling, but the vehicle advised me that the active air suspension needed servicing. The height did change and I was able to make it safely down the driveway and start charging for the night. Hopefully I can make it back out again!

Clearly some of these issues are fixable in software, and others will require service to look at the vehicle. If the most egregious can addressed shortly I'll patiently wait for fixes to the rest. Fingers crossed, because otherwise I've loved the experience.

 

[JRP3]

I've definitely seen, and owned, frameless window cars that did not have this feature. Most recent was a Subaru outback. I do see how going up into a groove would give a tighter seal, so I guess that's why they do it.

 

[jomo25]

I've definitely seen, and owned, frameless window cars that did not have this feature. Most recent was a Subaru outback. I do see how going up into a groove would give a tighter seal, so I guess that's why they do it.

The frameless window-ed cars I had (Z3, S2000, 370Z convertible) all did it. They did happen to all be convertibles, but I think it's the same.

 

[Doug_G]

The frameless window-ed cars I had (Z3, S2000, 370Z convertible) all did it. They did happen to all be convertibles, but I think it's the same.

Funnily enough, I have one very good exception - also a convertible - the Tesla Roadster.

 

[pete8314]

It allows there to be a groove at the top of the frame that the window seats in when the door is closed, giving a tight seal. In order for this groove to work, you have to lower the window when the door is open, then slide the window up into the groove when the door closes.

Doesn't it also allow the 'heavier' doors to close easier due to less air pressure inside the car? My last few cars have all had this feature, but they've all been 2 door cars (big, heavy doors). I think I recall having a VW Passat around 2000 that if you happened to close both doors at once (happened more often than you'd think) then neither would close (and it didn't have the dropping windows). That was my last 4 door, but not for that reason

I guess every car since then has had frameless windows, so my theory may not be sound.

 

[Zapped]

+1 Very good point.
The slight window drop solves both of those issues

 

[jomo25]

Doesn't it also allow the 'heavier' doors to close easier due to less air pressure inside the car? My last few cars have all had this feature, but they've all been 2 door cars (big, heavy doors). I think I recall having a VW Passat around 2000 that if you happened to close both doors at once (happened more often than you'd think) then neither would close (and it didn't have the dropping windows). That was my last 4 door, but not for that reason

I guess every car since then has had frameless windows, so my theory may not be sound.

Yes, the pressure is also part of the reason as I recall. As a matter of fact, I recall the past cars manuals saying something about special instructions to open the doors when the 12V battery was dead due to the risk of causing damage due to pressure since the window wouldn't be able to drop down.

 

[David-El]

Panoramic roof sticks when opening. Attempting to open the roof to any state (vent, comfort, or fully open) requires two attempts, the first time the roof sticks just as it's starting to open and still shows as closed. The second attempt works as expected.

Projected range resets to "instant." After changing to show my average projected range I find that on returning to the energy screen later the projected range always resets to instant rather than remembering my preference.

Call Tesla service indicated while adjusting height. Our driveway is steep and the Model S will bottom out unless raised. I attempted to raise the vehicle to "Very High" and lock it in Jack mode to prevent auto-leveling, but the vehicle advised me that the active air suspension needed servicing. The height did change and I was able to make it safely down the driveway and start charging for the night. Hopefully I can make it back out again!

Just to help with these issues:

Re: Pano roof sticking, there were posts previously about the roof going to vent mode first before opening and it is a known issue that can be fixed with a service visit if I remember correctly.

Re: the Energy app, there are two spots that may have an answer to this. The first would be Controls>Settings>Apps>Energy, check here to see if there is a toggle between Projected and Instant. If not there, perhaps under Controls>Settings>Units & Format, there is an option to choose between Projected and Ideal, this changes the remaining range in the center screen, I don't know if it will change the energy app, if not, just put it back to Projected. I tried reviewing Cinergi's videos but couldn't find an answer and I don't have my car yet (will soon!) to be able to check myself.

Re: Adjusting Height, you really should only put it to Very High, Jack mode is only for if the car needs to be towed on a flatbed, and it shouldn't be driven in Jack mode.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

[Brian H]

Re: Adjusting Height, you really should only put it to Very High, Jack mode is only for if the car needs to be towed on a flatbed, and it shouldn't be driven in Jack mode.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

I believe Jack mode kills all shock absorber action, and would be quite hazardous.

 

[wycolo]

7400 ft elevation visibility 1.5mi 13*F 45% humidity Calm

Dusted 1 inch of powder off ModelS. Using new technique: hold right fist between driver's door & pillar, with left hand gently pull on handle. Then door opens w/o the glass passing the chrome roof edge. This works(!). Today the window went down the 1/2 inch as it should. Guess the spray with silicone along the seal didn't hurt. No silicone shmear visible on glass either. Used: "Mac's - NAPA 8300 - mfg by Ashland, Russell, KY". Lubed up the Tesla charge doors too.

S begging to be plugged in. Went from "full standard charge" of 236 to 186 miles over a 4 or 5 day period. Yesterday was 206, so that is 20 miles in one day. Environment = OFF (the 6pm toggle). That's like an 8% per day loss, no complaints from me.
--

 

[JRP3]

Seems excessive to me. At that rate if you drove say 50 miles and then parked for 10 days you come back to an empty car that won't make it back. It also hurts the efficiency profile if the car burns 6-7kWh's a day when sitting still.

 

[wycolo]

> Seems excessive to me.

I was just fleshing out my report. Sure, it's not like the Roadster that can sit day after day with little loss, but at least it's not begging to be kept in an insulated/heated garage.

> At that rate if you drove say 50 miles and then parked for 10 days you come back to an empty car that won't make it back.

LOL, don't you folks have crapmobiles to park at airport long-term??

> It also hurts the efficiency profile if the car burns 6-7kWh's a day when sitting still.

Sure, but @11 cents per kwh not too pressing. NO tech pkg here, so would that qualify as excessive? I'll chart this daily and not plug it in until daily usage drops to a lower plateau (enters life-saving mode). Easy for me to do since I don't drive it.
--

 

[efxjim]

Sounds like a belly blanket (1" of custom molded isocyanate foam stuck to the battery) might really help out in the very cold climates.

 

[GeekGirls]

Re: Pano roof sticking, there were posts previously about the roof going to vent mode first before opening and it is a known issue that can be fixed with a service visit if I remember correctly.

I'll definitely mention it since they're going to have to perform a few other service tweaks. Fingers crossed.

Re: the Energy app, there are two spots that may have an answer to this. The first would be Controls>Settings>Apps>Energy, check here to see if there is a toggle between Projected and Instant.

There are no settings for Energy, or at least I assume that's the meaning of the dimmed app icon. In any case, touching the Energy app under settings does nothing.

If not there, perhaps under Controls>Settings>Units & Format, there is an option to choose between Projected and Ideal, this changes the remaining range in the center screen, I don't know if it will change the energy app, if not, just put it back to Projected.

I certainly hope there's no connection between the two because it would be utterly counter-intuitive. I may simply get used to the value of the instantaneous in helping me adjust my driving style, but I would certainly prefer that it remember how I had it displayed last.

Re: Adjusting Height, you really should only put it to Very High, Jack mode is only for if the car needs to be towed on a flatbed, and it shouldn't be driven in Jack mode.

That's curious. It is also exactly what the person I spoke to at Tesla said when I called, whereas the v4.0 manual claims that you can drive in jack mode up to 4.5mph. I was concerned that the car's attempts to auto-level while going over the hump at the top of our drive could result in bottoming out, but I guess I'll trust that it knows what it's doing and cross my fingers.

 

[cinergi]

Re: the Energy app, there are two spots that may have an answer to this. The first would be Controls>Settings>Apps>Energy, check here to see if there is a toggle between Projected and Instant. If not there, perhaps under Controls>Settings>Units & Format, there is an option to choose between Projected and Ideal, this changes the remaining range in the center screen, I don't know if it will change the energy app, if not, just put it back to Projected. I tried reviewing Cinergi's videos but couldn't find an answer and I don't have my car yet (will soon!) to be able to check myself.

Definitely a bug (IMO - may be by design but I think it should remember your last setting).

 

[dtich]

Definitely a bug (IMO - may be by design but I think it should remember your last setting).

+1, my thoughts exactly.

 

[anticitizen13.7]

> For what it's worth, my Dad's BMW 850i would do this as well, for example if the 12V battery ran down. The 850 window was definitely designed to allow the door to open even if the window didn't go down, and it would hit the plastic trim around the window when the door closed. I suspect it's not an uncommon problem with frameless doors. [MikeK]

But it would allow the door to be closed without damage, right? The S door CANNOT BE CLOSED unless the glass can drop that crucial 1/2 inch! I can imagine an S owner off on a cig/booze run just bungeeing the driver's door 'closed' and making do. Hey, first things first!

Could someone explain to me how the windows on the Model S work?

From what I understand, when you roll the frameless windows up all the way, they seal up into the main body of the car. Do you later need to lower the windows to open the door to get out of the car? How does the car handle sealing up the windows when locking and unlocking from outside the vehicle?

 

[jerry33]

From what I understand, when you roll the frameless windows up all the way, they seal up into the main body of the car. Do you later need to lower the windows to open the door to get out of the car? How does the car handle sealing up the windows when locking and unlocking from outside the vehicle?

That is all supposed to work automatically. You shouldn't have to do anything extra.

 

[Robert.Boston]

That is all supposed to work automatically. You shouldn't have to do anything extra.

Exactly this. The car manages the window. All the human does is open or close the door.

 

[anticitizen13.7]

That is all supposed to work automatically. You shouldn't have to do anything extra.

Exactly this. The car manages the window. All the human does is open or close the door.

How does the car roll down the window quickly enough? The power windows in all the cars I've owned would be too slow to react. Does something in the mechanics of the door handle drop the window when the handle is pulled?

The only car with frameless window I have ever owned was a Subaru, and it had the cheaper implementation where the window did not go up into the seal.