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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Unlocked the car, and the rear passenger window went all the way down and both passenger side handles would no longer come out. We were able to open the doors from inside and close the window but afterwards windows wouldn't open or doors from outside. Tried some of the more obvious, locked and unlocked a couple of times and a main console reset which had corrected an earlier quirky driver side rear door handle, but no luck.

Tesla experience said the software update rolling out now may resolve the problem and they will try to preferentially roll it out. They recommended parking in an area with good 3G to get the download, unfortunately no AT&T 3G at home so will have to park it somewhere with good reception for a few hours and see if it loads.
 
I'm on 4.1 and today I had my turn signal and seat belt sounds disappear. Had to reboot to get them back. I tested signals and they were still working and the seat belt light was lit when unbuckled but the sound was gone. Also, my front and rear truck controls were disabled on the controls screen. I could open them with the key fob but not with the screen. The buttons were greyed out. Charge, lock, and unlock were still working. Didn't see these things reported yet but a screen reboot seemed to fix it all FYI.

Just wondering, have others been contacting Tesla everytime something like this happens so they are aware? Are some of you just posting here?
 
I usually e-mail the ownership team if it's something I haven't seen posted before that I don't know about. For something like the 'washer fluid' warning with v4.0 that I knew many people had already reported, I didn't e-mail them.
 
Last night My S decided it liked my J1772 adaptor and refused to release it. It then shut down all the screens. Called Tesla they had me remove the fuse and try a reboot. Booted up but then shut down after 30 sec with a service is needed warning. After 15 min it would wake up and shut down again in the same 30 sec when I approached with the key. Service showed up this morning said it is a known problem and removed the back of the charge port and got it to release the adapter. If the small multi pin connector is removed from the bottom of the assembly the car will restart (after a 10min time out) and drive. It however will not charge till the port is replaced and is re linked (coded) with new software. So replace on Monday if in stock and re-code or on Wednesday (closed on New Years Day) if parts not local. I miss the car already! Guess i'ts time to pay attention to the roadster:wink:

Are you running 4.0 or 4.1?
 
Report from TESLA High Altitude Test Station (unofficial): Elevation = 7400ft Latitude = 41.2*N:

We have taken a couple days off (finally blue skies, warm sun!) to catch up with firewood. Actively sweeping snow & ice off the Roadster & ModelS whenever possible to avoid freeze-up problems.

Comments:

> Makes me wonder if it would be helpful to have something like a 12V-operated hairdryer (or maybe an infrared device), and use it to unfreeze various things that might get frozen? [Norbert]

@14*F doing this would have depleted the 12v batt trying to do the impossible. Portable blowtorch??


> I wonder if applying RainX to the glass and some silicone to the seals would help prevent this? [JRP3]

Excellent! In the past I would never really care if the driver's window was frozen shut. My commute was 200 mi south so that would take care of itself eventually. Or just park facing the sun at the first opportunity. But I *did* take pains to annually wipe the door seals with silicone fluid so the doors would not freeze shut. This solved that issue.

I did not want silicone smearing the whole driver's window as it was opened & closed on the shiny new S. But thinking about it now, it seems unlikely I will ever really need to open this window at all during cold weather. So why not lay a thick dousing of silicone spray along the window seal and move the window up an inch or so to work it into the seal surface. This should at least make clearing ice & freeing up the seal that much easier. Might even solve this whole problem.

TM could possibly choose a 'greasier' type of rubber for that window seal. My driver's window froze up on the following day again, this time with no ice visible anywhere on the entire door. When I opened the door the glass snapped past the chrome but could not drop down the 1/2 inch. I tried using the motor but it was stuck. Spent a minute or so inside playing with the screen, then discovered that the window had popped down silently all by itself. So now I could close the door. So there was enough moisture remaining in the seal to refreeze overnight. More reason to keep this seal soaked with silicone.


> For what it's worth, my Dad's BMW 850i would do this as well, for example if the 12V battery ran down. The 850 window was definitely designed to allow the door to open even if the window didn't go down, and it would hit the plastic trim around the window when the door closed. I suspect it's not an uncommon problem with frameless doors. [MikeK]

But it would allow the door to be closed without damage, right? The S door CANNOT BE CLOSED unless the glass can drop that crucial 1/2 inch! I can imagine an S owner off on a cig/booze run just bungeeing the driver's door 'closed' and making do. Hey, first things first!


> The tech guys at the service center and corporate I've spoken to just shake their heads at the extending handles. All they say is "Elon gets what Elon wants". I'm sure every engineer at Tesla has said the extending handles are just a fiasco waiting to happen. They are an overly complicated solution to a simple problem. Just look at those automated seatbelts that many cars had in the 90's. All of those went away too because it just added unneeded complexity. [DrComputer]

I've got one here- '90 Mitsu Coupe- I look at that seatbelt creature with fear. Probably replace it with a racing harness (if I ever manage to put the replacement engine in).


> In general, I think the door handles are "cool" (my kids absolutely love them) and a unique feature of the car, but I do worry about the long term reliability of the handles and the entire electronic door latching mechanism. [PureAmps]

My '01 Malibu Chevy has a *kids safety* back door lock-out switch that is semi-hidden away somewhere. Might be good to include on the S so the rear doors NEVER EVER open when car is in motion. NTSC requirement??


> the past several days have been rain during the day and freezing overnight. [Robert.Boston]

Time to soak the Tesla door/window seals with silicone or WD40.


> The Prius had some occasional oscillator issues that would mess with the smart key system. [efusco]

Now Toyota can dispatch a dozen engineers to focus on new issues that come up. TM cannot afford this. That is why I chose the NON-TECH Package, naively thinking it might yield a simple reliable proven KEY like the Roadster. No such luck.


> I stood in the parking lot of Walmart . . . . naturally there were onlookers. [AnOutsider]

1. You could carry camera as you climb out & instantly become a bystander oogling & photographing.
2. Never show perplexion or fear, adopt a general inspection mode: wheels, doors, screen, etc while returning obliquely to your aspect of concern. They need never know.


> Not every glitch related to this new car should be considered reasonable though. Though the car possesses some very new technologies, the door handles, as many have stated, seem to be unnecessarily complex and glitchy. As early adopters, everyone buying this car is looking forward to and willing to accept an element of adventure but everyone also has different tolerance levels. [bigsmooth125]

+1. When your module is on the Moon's surface you don't want *any* subsystems that rely on quickie Ranger visits from down the road in Menlo Park.
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I had this issue once, but wasn't following the right procedure. The car must be unlocked and the chargepoint must be on to disconnect. Works like a champ now.

That aside, all issues should be reported to ownership experience. I suggested changes to the j1772 procedure to make them more intuitive. I've had one major issue, and their response was amazing. It's essential we all report these issues so engineering can prioritize them.
 
> For what it's worth, my Dad's BMW 850i would do this as well, for example if the 12V battery ran down. The 850 window was definitely designed to allow the door to open even if the window didn't go down, and it would hit the plastic trim around the window when the door closed. I suspect it's not an uncommon problem with frameless doors. [MikeK]

But it would allow the door to be closed without damage, right? The S door CANNOT BE CLOSED unless the glass can drop that crucial 1/2 inch! I can imagine an S owner off on a cig/booze run just bungeeing the driver's door 'closed' and making do. Hey, first things first!

On the 850, when you closed the door if the battery was run down, it made a terrible "clank" noise and the window was pushed outwards by contact with the surrounding frame. It didn't damage anything, but the window wouldn't seal.
 
Frankly I'm not really sure why they would design a window that has to be lowered to close the door. Certainly plenty of frame less doors don't have that "feature". If you don't want to use silicone you could use Teflon grease.

My guess is that over time it will provide a better seal (less wind noise) than many frameless doors.
 
Frankly I'm not really sure why they would design a window that has to be lowered to close the door. Certainly plenty of frame less doors don't have that "feature". If you don't want to use silicone you could use Teflon grease.

Actually, a lot of cars with frameless windows have the window drop 1/4" or so when the door is opened/closed. Noticed this on a rental Dodge Challenger a few months ago.
 
Could someone kindly explain why the window needs to be lowered in these situations to open or close the door? I'm trying to figure out this problem. My wife's outback has a frameless window and I've never noticed an issue on her car.

It allows there to be a groove at the top of the frame that the window seats in when the door is closed, giving a tight seal. In order for this groove to work, you have to lower the window when the door is open, then slide the window up into the groove when the door closes.
 
> Makes me wonder if it would be helpful to have something like a 12V-operated hairdryer (or maybe an infrared device), and use it to unfreeze various things that might get frozen? [Norbert]

@14*F doing this would have depleted the 12v batt trying to do the impossible. Portable blowtorch??

It wouldn't deplete the 12V battery at least in those cases where you are connected to a charger, I hope. But, of course, impossible is impossible. (Pre-)Heating the cabin does unfreeze things, doesn't it? Haven't been in freezing temperatures for a long time....
 
You mean "modern" frameless windows. :) My 1965 GTO has frameless windows but just doesn't seal worth a s*&t. :)
Not even all "modern" cars. The C5 Corvette (2004) didn't have this feature and at high speed the windows would flex outwards and cause some wicked noise. The C6 works like the Model S. As Kevin mentioned some cars still don't do this. It's only a problem at very high speeds (100+ mph) so it's not necessary in something like an Outback.
 
Not even all "modern" cars. The C5 Corvette (2004) didn't have this feature and at high speed the windows would flex outwards and cause some wicked noise. The C6 works like the Model S. As Kevin mentioned some cars still don't do this. It's only a problem at very high speeds (100+ mph) so it's not necessary in something like an Outback.

i'm very happy they designed the windows as they have, i've had no trouble with them. and i'm constantly surprised that the car is as quiet at 110 mph as it is at 60. kinda crazy.