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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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I've been getting a humming sound (from the motor?) when i start the car. Not every time, but when it happens it's very noticeable. It seems like it's usually really hot out and when i'm cranking the AC, but not sure if that really has anything to do with it. The sound/vibration usually goes away within a minute or two.

Does anyone know if this is normal?

I've got a May 2017 MS 75D fwiw
If you have air suspension it's probably that.
 
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I've been getting a humming sound (from the motor?) when i start the car. Not every time, but when it happens it's very noticeable. It seems like it's usually really hot out and when i'm cranking the AC, but not sure if that really has anything to do with it. The sound/vibration usually goes away within a minute or two.

That's the a/c compressor you're hearing. It is a variable speed affair, and will spool up quite loudly at the beginning. As the car cools down, the compressor slows down and gets much quieter.
 
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I've been getting a humming sound (from the motor?) when i start the car. Not every time, but when it happens it's very noticeable. It seems like it's usually really hot out and when i'm cranking the AC, but not sure if that really has anything to do with it. The sound/vibration usually goes away within a minute or two.

Does anyone know if this is normal?

I've got a May 2017 MS 75D fwiw
Perfectly normal. That's the A/C compressor. When it's really hot out, to avoid that turn the A/C to 27.5 C. That will cause the compressor to run at a slower rate, but the air will still feel cool, then as you drive, turn it down bit by bit as you start to feel warm.
 
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Perfectly normal. That's the A/C compressor. When it's really hot out, to avoid that turn the A/C to 27.5 C. That will cause the compressor to run at a slower rate, but the air will still feel cool, then as you drive, turn it down bit by bit as you start to feel warm.

Another tip might be to run your car in Range Mode. I do this in the summer and find it keeps the compressor from spooling up to jet airliner levels, but still cools the car quite adequately.
 
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Another tip might be to run your car in Range Mode. I do this in the summer and find it keeps the compressor from spooling up to jet airliner levels, but still cools the car quite adequately.
^this

I ran my 60 in range mode for 3 years, because it was embarrassingly loud when first starting up, unless I remembered to precool. At least then I just didn't have to hear it!
 
Anyone else getting constant "loading errors" on their Music System? Seems to be happening more and more lately and the source doesn't seem to matter. Does it on Streaming as often as it does on straight from the USB port.

Hi guys, Just wanted to do an update. I called Tesla Service in my area and I am bring the car in next week to see if they can fix the problem. It's gotten much worse lately and some days I have to do a full reboot to get it to work at all (like today).

I am beginning to think I may need updated Hardware, such as a new radio. Hopefully my "old" car (4 yrs) can accept a new Radio System that will actually work. This is the one big problem with having a car that gets regular software updates. The old hardware stops working. This never happened in the first 3 years of having this car. Only in the last few months and it's getting worse with time.

I will keep you updated as to what happens. Please cross your fingers for me! This is really a drag. :(
 
What other components (that an independent mechanic or a DIY can't definitely fix) can make the car un-driveable besides a defective battery or drive unit since it is only those two components that are warranted for eight years? Just considering whether the ESA is worthwhile purchasing (for a future Model 3; I don't have a Model S).

Since you are getting a Model 3, I think the DU isn't under the 8 year warranty. The battery has a 8 year 100k/120k warranty, but AFAIK the DU isn't included. Considering how many problems Tesla had with the Model S DU, an ESA might be a wise choice. But you could also wait 4 years/ 50k miles and then decide, depending on M3 reliability. I think I remember that ESA can be purchased until your car runs out of warranty.
 
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Since you are getting a Model 3, I think the DU isn't under the 8 year warranty. The battery has a 8 year 100k/120k warranty, but AFAIK the DU isn't included. Considering how many problems Tesla had with the Model S DU, an ESA might be a wise choice. But you could also wait 4 years/ 50k miles and then decide, depending on M3 reliability. I think I remember that ESA can be purchased until your car runs out of warranty.


I'm pretty sure the DU is included in the 8 year warranty.
 
Since you are getting a Model 3, I think the DU isn't under the 8 year warranty. The battery has a 8 year 100k/120k warranty, but AFAIK the DU isn't included. Considering how many problems Tesla had with the Model S DU, an ESA might be a wise choice. But you could also wait 4 years/ 50k miles and then decide, depending on M3 reliability. I think I remember that ESA can be purchased until your car runs out of warranty.

Good point about delaying the purchase of the ESA just before the four year warranty expires. Depending on the reliability of the 3, you may have saved me some odd $4k there. :)

To be honest, the comprehensiveness of the ESA will make or break my Model 3 purchase (not sure how many times Tesla rewords the ESA though to the detriment of the customer so maybe I should buy earlier because the Model 3 volume is going to be overwhelming that Tesla might start noticing exponential repair costs and jack up the ESA price accordingly).

With the features I want - memory seat/ winter weather package (part of PUP), just TACC, the $35k base model become almost $49k ($58k with LR in case people report much lower distance this coming winter since my wife needs to drive 140 miles once a week and cannot be bother with charging an EV.). I don't mind the $58k if I can financed it over at least four years at relatively low interest rates but I will be in a terrible state of shock if after four years, non-warrantied items start breaking down and are very costly to repair; and after eight years, the whole car just breaks down. :)

My wife says her dream car is a BMW and I read that a pure electric X3 will be coming in 2019. Maybe I can get rid of the reliable RAV4 Hybrid then if we do get a Model 3 to make her dream come true. Too bad she doesn't like sedans anymore or the electric 3 series would be interesting too. :)
 
I'm pretty sure the DU is included in the 8 year warranty.
The Tesla press kit Press Kit | Tesla for the 3 says:
Warranty
  • Vehicle: 4 year, 50,000 mile limited warranty
  • Battery warranty: 8 year, 100,000 mile (120,000 mile with Long Range Battery)
But in the same press kit it says for the Model X:
Warranty
  • 8 year, infinite mile battery and drive unit warranty
  • 4 year, 50,000 mile limited warranty
Good point about delaying the purchase of the ESA just before the four year warranty expires. Depending on the reliability of the 3, you may have saved me some odd $4k there. :)

To be honest, the comprehensiveness of the ESA will make or break my Model 3 purchase (not sure how many times Tesla rewords the ESA though to the detriment of the customer so maybe I should buy earlier because the Model 3 volume is going to be overwhelming that Tesla might start noticing exponential repair costs and jack up the ESA price accordingly).

With the features I want - memory seat/ winter weather package (part of PUP), just TACC, the $35k base model become almost $49k ($58k with LR in case people report much lower distance this coming winter since my wife needs to drive 140 miles once a week and cannot be bother with charging an EV.). I don't mind the $58k if I can financed it over at least four years at relatively low interest rates but I will be in a terrible state of shock if after four years, non-warrantied items start breaking down and are very costly to repair; and after eight years, the whole car just breaks down. :)

My wife says her dream car is a BMW and I read that a pure electric X3 will be coming in 2019. Maybe I can get rid of the reliable RAV4 Hybrid then if we do get a Model 3 to make her dream come true. Too bad she doesn't like sedans anymore or the electric 3 series would be interesting too. :)

Yea it could happen that your ESA is more expensive if you delay it. Generally purchasing a Tesla is still a risk financially, compared to let's say a Toyota. But BMWs aren't really cheaper to maintain either and we can hope that Tesla shows some improvements on reliability. Still, as long as Tesla has the quasi monopoly on repairs, they will be expensive and Tesla is a company with a rather shaky reliability record.

I doubt it will fall apart after 8 years, but every time I see people arguing how cheap a Model 3 will be to run, I do think they are a bit optimistic here. Tesla needs to prove that they can build a reliable car first.
 
It can't rest in its laurel for sure with Toyota launching some BEVs in 2019 and solid state batteries hopefully by 2022. I believe it's doable for Toyota as long as it can source the batteries somehow. We have a RAV4 Hybrid (AWD in North America) and after a year, it's been rock solid. It's not that fun to drive but getting 35 MPG outside winter is a pretty good bonus.

On True Delta, at least 40% of the issues posted (not a lot of owners bothered posting though) complained about the liftgate ECU, which Toyota has since fixed with a new ECU. One was a complaint about a broken lug nut.

Toyota does seem to be build really solid and dependable.

I agree with you that it's too early to tell the cost of ownership for these Tesla S 3 X are especially without the Right to Repair -- owners or other shops being able to service them.

I don't mind letting my reservation deposit sleep for a year or two more if need be but even without AWD, I might consider a 60 kWH Nissan Leaf.
 
It can't rest in its laurel for sure with Toyota launching some BEVs in 2019 and solid state batteries hopefully by 2022. I believe it's doable for Toyota as long as it can source the batteries somehow. We have a RAV4 Hybrid (AWD in North America) and after a year, it's been rock solid. It's not that fun to drive but getting 35 MPG outside winter is a pretty good bonus.

On True Delta, at least 40% of the issues posted (not a lot of owners bothered posting though) complained about the liftgate ECU, which Toyota has since fixed with a new ECU. One was a complaint about a broken lug nut.

Toyota does seem to be build really solid and dependable.

I agree with you that it's too early to tell the cost of ownership for these Tesla S 3 X are especially without the Right to Repair -- owners or other shops being able to service them.

I don't mind letting my reservation deposit sleep for a year or two more if need be but even without AWD, I might consider a 60 kWH Nissan Leaf.

I hope I didn't talk you out of a Tesla, because they are truly great cars! And for me, coming from Mercedes and BMW before that, my Model S has been great. Not even a single DU replacement. But they are on Mercedes and BMW levels when it comes to reliability and maintenance costs, even the annual service isn't cheap and I think it's important to tell that to potential buyers. That's what this forum is for, educate others, by exchanging experiences.

So I hope you will buy a Tesla, if you can afford it. But I can totally understand if you don't want to be one of the first ones, either.
 
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I hope I didn't talk you out of a Tesla, because they are truly great cars! And for me, coming from Mercedes and BMW before that, my Model S has been great. Not even a single DU replacement. But they are on Mercedes and BMW levels when it comes to reliability and maintenance costs, even the annual service isn't cheap and I think it's important to tell that to potential buyers. That's what this forum is for, educate others, by exchanging experiences.

So I hope you will buy a Tesla, if you can afford it. But I can totally understand if you don't want to be one of the first ones, either.

Are you ever going to consider going back to Mercedes, BMW or Audi once they have their BEV line up? In Germany, which of the three have the best reliability record or is there really none since the collapse of the Berlin Wall?
 
Are you ever going to consider going back to Mercedes, BMW or Audi once they have their BEV line up? In Germany, which of the three have the best reliability record or is there really none since the collapse of the Berlin Wall?

Well I've usually leased cars, through my company, so reliability isn't too much of an issue. My wife currently has an A4 (diesel... ugh), which will be replaced by a Model 3. There are reliability records, actually really extensive ones, but none I'd really trust and yes, the Germans are really good in them.

I'd definitely consider a German BEV, or a Japanese one, or a Korean one. But as long as they have nothing to offer, I don't really think about them too much. If someone would bring a wagon, I'd switch sides in a minute, but AFAIK they are all building SUVs first, which I don't really like. An electric 3/5 series wagon on the other hand...

For now it's only Tesla for me.
 
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I have noticed that when I have the AC on I get hot air blowing from the passenger side vents even though I have cool air from the driver's side vents. Weird. Anyone else ever heard of such a thing?

Guess I need to call service (also need a DU replacement — it is getting pretty noisy — so have to contact them anyway). Not looking forward to multiple seven hundred mile service trips.
 
Update on the "Loading Errors"
Hi guys, Just wanted to do an update. I called Tesla Service in my area and I am bring the car in next week to see if they can fix the problem. It's gotten much worse lately and some days I have to do a full reboot to get it to work at all (like today).

I am beginning to think I may need updated Hardware, such as a new radio. Hopefully my "old" car (4 yrs) can accept a new Radio System that will actually work. This is the one big problem with having a car that gets regular software updates. The old hardware stops working. This never happened in the first 3 years of having this car. Only in the last few months and it's getting worse with time.

I will keep you updated as to what happens. Please cross your fingers for me! This is really a drag. :(

Just dropped off the car and the Service Advisor said the solution to the Slacker and USB loading error problem, is to not use them until Tesla can find a fix. I wish I were kidding. :(