BertL
Active Member
When parked, I also see 3-7 miles loss/day depending on temps. It's not a problem.
You'll loose range with your MS sitting because of various vampire drain. Perhaps most notably under your control are settings for Display/Energy Savings which from my testing years ago can save or use an additional ~1-3 mi/day depending on the combination. There are numerous old threads with analysis and detail on pros/cons/variations, but an over-simplified net is: set it to Energy Savings ON and Always Connected Checked to have fastest access via the Tesla App to your vehicle, knowing it will use the most energy to keep that part of your car alive to quickly respond when queried from outside; Set it to OFF/Unchecked and you won't have the same increased vampire drain, but you may have to wait minutes for your Tesla App to respond as it won't connect until your MS does it's occasional check back up with the Mothership.
In addition, unlike lesser EVs, your MS will automatically cool or heat your main battery pack to protect it's health as temps become more extreme. I always have a few more miles drain on days with much hotter or colder weather. Assuming you have not been charging or set HVAC to stay on, to see that your car is actually protecting itself, occasionally watch your Tesla App and you'll note the inside cabin temp can be much warmer or cooler than outside because of that heating/cooling happening with the pack under your floorboards -- e.g. my MS has been sitting in my garage overnight, but the cabin is a toasty 68, whereas the garage is in the 40s.
There are other threads on pros/cons with hoards of opinions, but I personally just leave my MS plugged-in while it's parked in my garage most of the time, and let the MS handle itself when it needs a "top off" to deal with vampire drain if I've not driven in a day or two. There is no need for me to worry with it that way unless I'm headed somewhere like the airport or a hiking trip, where my MS may remain parked for days/weeks at a time when my manually turning off those Energy Savings/Always Connected options will help preserve more of my useful battery range for when I return -- loosing 1-3 miles/day under your control adds up if you're going to be gone for awhile and don't really need quick access via your Tesla App. In addition, your MS is always doing automatic things like turning off some of the antenna as time goes on trying to preserve your battery charge (it's why if you park for awhile, sometimes your MS won't recognize your FOB as you approach and present handles until you touch them) -- your MS becomes more aggressive trying to protect it's battery charge as time goes on, and I'm sure the logic tries to balance preserving what's left of your charge with protecting it's battery health (meaning auto heat/cool of the pack) as you approach nothing left.
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Additional suggestion on rebooting -- There used to be a significant difference in how much got reset between what I call a manual "quick reboot" vs a "full reboot". "Quick" being: hold both scroll wheels down until Tesla T appears on the CID, then let up. "Full" being: put your foot on the brake AND hold both scroll wheels down until Tesla T appears on the CID, then let up on all three. I do the latter most of the time, since the majority of my ongoing failings requiring a manual reboot are related to Media Player (MP), and in the past only a "Full Reboot" reset the most parts of MP USB (sadly, updates in the past year or so seemed to eliminate some of that difference, but I still always do the Full Reboot process unless I'm driving down the road and can't pull over just-in-case. The "Full" reboot is also what Tesla Service has generally suggested I do for various problems.)
Good luck with that MS! Enjoy.
