Although the manual states fully pushing up/down on the cruise-control stalk (past the detent position) should adjust the set speed by 5MPH, it typically adjusts by 6MPH. It feels like the car is registering both the partial (1MPH) and full lever movements in the same event and adjusting for them both.
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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
roblab
Active Member
Early on, we had the frunk latch fail. It had gotten out of line, and closing it bent it. Then the latch and loop actually got past each other and would not open at all. The only clue we had was that the hood got harder and harder to latch, until it wouldn't open at all.
Got it replaced. Easy to close (well, one hand doable, two hands is easier) and no problems since then (8 months ago).
Chuck Lusin
Chuck P10548 Jenny P10614
Todd Burch
14-Year Member
Similar to my experience over the last week where two times I opened the rear passenger side door and the sunroof opened to the vent position (that one REALLY has my head scratching!)
Zapped
Model S - PURE EV
Is someone at 3G "mission control" pressing some buttons. Where's the "Just For Laughs" webcam ?
Todd Burch
14-Year Member
That's pretty much how it felt! I sat there for awhile wondering where in the software code the two might be related...
Makes me wonder. One place they are all related is in the mobile app. I'm beginning to wonder if there's something odd happening with the mobile apps and/or the server processing the mobile app requests that is causing behavior like this. It could have been triggered by the changes made in support of the 4.5 firmware. Is there a mobile app function that could even cause the dash to be "on" randomly, like the unlock command?
Given that there is logic to crack, then close the individual door windows when opening/closing the doors (ostensibly for cabin air-pressure equalization), I wonder if this is also intentional behavior under some circumstances, or perhaps an inadvertent trigger of similar code for the vent when manipulating the doors...
mknox
Well-Known Member
The window does the little drop thing so that the glass will clear the seal when the door is opened/closed. Cars with framed windows don't do this because the whole frame swings with the door (and they don't seem to suffer from air pressure issues). If I open the door too quickly,the glass will catch on the rubber seal and kind of flip the glass a bit as I pull the door. I've trained myself to pull the handle a bit more slowly to allow time for the glass to drop.
Hank42
Legacy Supporter
What production # are you? I see many people quote problems, I am curious to know what production number they are to see if perhaps it is related to assembly line issue that may have gotten resolved on newer produced models.
P2840, so not super early, but within the first 5k.
I've heard of all of these problems in meetings with our local Tesla group (except my center screen replacement, it seems to be very rare). I just happened to get them all, whereas most folks have had one or two of the various items.
Todd Burch
14-Year Member
I imagine most of these issues are significantly better on the latest car builds. Tesla is continuously tweaking parts as necessary to fix these sorts of issues. For instance:
1. The door handles have gone through a redesign cycle.
2. The steering "pop" sound has a service bulletin with an official fix. I assume they're either integrating this into cars being built currently, or the part has been tweaked to avoid the problem in the first place.
3. There is an official fix for the rattle in the panoramic roof that some have reported. Again, presumably they've tweaked a part to correct this, or they're just incorporating the fix into newly built cars.
I'm compelled to give an update on a persistent problem: interference with the key transmitter can make it impossible to open the car.
For example, there is a toy store in Washington DC that's in a dead zone, for some reason. Maybe a transformer box above? If u take your kids there u stand a good chance of locking your kids in the car as you go from front to back.
Yes, if you've got ur tesla app you're ok, but this is still not good.
Please Tesla, as ur biggest fan, consider some mechanical override mechanism for future models to put mothers (and dads) at ease.
For example, there is a toy store in Washington DC that's in a dead zone, for some reason. Maybe a transformer box above? If u take your kids there u stand a good chance of locking your kids in the car as you go from front to back.
Yes, if you've got ur tesla app you're ok, but this is still not good.
Please Tesla, as ur biggest fan, consider some mechanical override mechanism for future models to put mothers (and dads) at ease.
Are you aware of the spot indicated by the owner's manual for manual opening of exterior doors?
W8MM
R1.5 #325 + Mdl S #01380
We've experienced this, too. No fun when trying to get in the car
It's some sort of radio frequency issue involving, perhaps, cell phone sites. Our 2010 Porsche Panamera also had one of these issues (since fixed) that seemed to happen in the same places. Porsche engineering tried to convince me it was the third harmonic of 104.9 or 105.1 MHz FM broadcast transmitters interfering with the 315 MHz key-fob frequency -- essentially drowning out the fob signal. Porsche gave me a new, improved, 104.5-105.5 notch filter that did absolutely nothing to fix the issue. It was finally fixed by new antenna switching modules containing varistors instead of diodes to do antenna switching for the hatch glass printed defroster/antenna traces.
Since the Model S gets screwed up in exact, same places where there are close-by cell sites, I'd say it has a 850 MHz or 1900 Mhz EMC problem in the keyless entry receiver.
BTW, I make my living in RF engineering.
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I tried that maneuver, but it wouldn't work for me. The car was facing the cell site thought to be the culprit, so I went around the to the back of the car so the car's metal panels would shield my position from the brunt of the RF and I was able to open the hatch, which extended the handels, and we got in OK. But, it was a bit unnerving.
kinddog
Banned
finally had appt on Wednesday of this week to get multiple creaks/rattles fixed.
yesterday (monday) i'm driving home and hear an AWFUL sound coming from the front drivers side wheel well. sounds like a rock is in the suspension or something. very random, but loud, like a control arm is broken. limp home.
limp back to the office today and move my appt up to today at lunchtime. i was planning on driving my S to the service center and driving away with a loaner.
go out to my car -- PROBLEM - two flat tires. both drivers side front and rear. now waiting on tow truck, and i'll have to crush my 21" rims driving on flat rubber because i'm in a parking garage and the tow truck can't fit in here.
FML...
yesterday (monday) i'm driving home and hear an AWFUL sound coming from the front drivers side wheel well. sounds like a rock is in the suspension or something. very random, but loud, like a control arm is broken. limp home.
limp back to the office today and move my appt up to today at lunchtime. i was planning on driving my S to the service center and driving away with a loaner.
go out to my car -- PROBLEM - two flat tires. both drivers side front and rear. now waiting on tow truck, and i'll have to crush my 21" rims driving on flat rubber because i'm in a parking garage and the tow truck can't fit in here.
FML...
SUN-day Driver
Member
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