AmpedRealtor
Well-Known Member
The cutout is fine, but there should be a small flap of the rubber seal hanging down from above. My car had the pano roof service bulletin applied prior to delivery, here's what it looks like:
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
The tow truck guy jumped the 12v and the car responded. Initial checks on the logs show nothing wrong so it's not going in for service, which is sort of the worst case since now I'm going to wonder every time I go out to my car if it's going to randomly fail to work, rather than having something wrong that got fixed.Distressing. My car is completely dead this morning. Won't respond to the key, won't respond to the app, Tesla can't get a response from it. Tesla can see it shut down at 9pm last night, but no reasons why or warnings/errors. 12v was fine before shutdown.
Grrrr. All cars fail, but the level of mystery as to why involved with a Tesla is discomforting.
Get one of these until you're more comfortable that you aren't going to be stranded.The tow truck guy jumped the 12v and the car responded. Initial checks on the logs show nothing wrong so it's not going in for service, which is sort of the worst case since now I'm going to wonder every time I go out to my car if it's going to randomly fail to work, rather than having something wrong that got fixed.
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me. I try to be vigilant about checking it, but on numerous occasions I've come out from the grocery store or a restaurant to find the window down. Once I went through a touchless car wash and suddenly the entire car was getting filled with soapy water through the rear window. What a mess to clean up!
I've reported this design flaw to ownership services and asked that they have one of their developers come up with an option for the rear window lock button to disable those windows from rear and front. I can always select to turn the option off if I want to send down a rear window. All I got back was a canned response thanking me for input that they might consider for future versions. No acknowledgement of the problem really at all. anyone else out there having this problem? It's because the door slopes down at the point where this button is for the rear window, making it easy for a knee to bump.
On another note, has anyone complained about the noise from the pano roof when tilted? When it's fully open it's fine, but tilted it makes a hell of a noise, clearly because of the huge gap that opens up between the car roof and the leading edge of the pano roof. To me, it's unusable in tilt-mode, aside from venting the car when it's sat in a parking lot all day.
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me.
I'm with you on this one, no matter how I tried, I couldn't press the buttons with my knees.I went and sat in my car and I can't fathom how my knee could even get close to pressing the window controls without having a detachable limb, but obviously it happens for some of you.
FWIW, my unresponsive car was apparently the dreaded 12V problem. Not sure why after 10 months it kicked in.
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me.
On another note, has anyone complained about the noise from the pano roof when tilted? When it's fully open it's fine, but tilted it makes a hell of a noise, clearly because of the huge gap that opens up between the car roof and the leading edge of the pano roof. To me, it's unusable in tilt-mode, aside from venting the car when it's sat in a parking lot all day.
I went and sat in my car and I can't fathom how my knee could even get close to pressing the window controls without having a detachable limb, but obviously it happens for some of you.
FWIW, my unresponsive car was apparently the dreaded 12V problem. Not sure why after 10 months it kicked in.
Wow, really glad to happen across your post because the same thing happens to me all the time and I thought I had a unique physiological problem! I've learned to minimize it by careful seat adjustment which I am still tweaking. But the more comfortable I get with the car the more likely I am to move and bump the switch... I did think of one way to fix this. It seems one fuse may be dedicated to that door window motor from my reading of the manual. If it doesn't kill other needed circuits there is the possibility for us to put in a remote controlled electrical switch on that window via the fuse box. Following other threads we could even use Homelink to activate/deactivate the kill switch relay. Thinking is as far as I got so far on this problem, but I could do some experiments if it helps others with the same issue.
Do you not keep your left foot on the dead peddle when driving? Or does this happen on entry or exit?
I did think of one way to fix this. It seems one fuse may be dedicated to that door window motor from my reading of the manual. If it doesn't kill other needed circuits there is the possibility for us to put in a remote controlled electrical switch on that window via the fuse box. Following other threads we could even use Homelink to activate/deactivate the kill switch relay.