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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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The cutout is fine, but there should be a small flap of the rubber seal hanging down from above. My car had the pano roof service bulletin applied prior to delivery, here's what it looks like:

IMG_2923.JPG
 
Distressing. My car is completely dead this morning. Won't respond to the key, won't respond to the app, Tesla can't get a response from it. Tesla can see it shut down at 9pm last night, but no reasons why or warnings/errors. 12v was fine before shutdown.

Grrrr. All cars fail, but the level of mystery as to why involved with a Tesla is discomforting.
 
Distressing. My car is completely dead this morning. Won't respond to the key, won't respond to the app, Tesla can't get a response from it. Tesla can see it shut down at 9pm last night, but no reasons why or warnings/errors. 12v was fine before shutdown.

Grrrr. All cars fail, but the level of mystery as to why involved with a Tesla is discomforting.
The tow truck guy jumped the 12v and the car responded. Initial checks on the logs show nothing wrong so it's not going in for service, which is sort of the worst case since now I'm going to wonder every time I go out to my car if it's going to randomly fail to work, rather than having something wrong that got fixed.
 
The tow truck guy jumped the 12v and the car responded. Initial checks on the logs show nothing wrong so it's not going in for service, which is sort of the worst case since now I'm going to wonder every time I go out to my car if it's going to randomly fail to work, rather than having something wrong that got fixed.
Get one of these until you're more comfortable that you aren't going to be stranded.
Amazon.com: Black Decker JUS500IB 500-Amp Jump Starter with Built-in Tire Inflator: Automotive
 
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me. I try to be vigilant about checking it, but on numerous occasions I've come out from the grocery store or a restaurant to find the window down. Once I went through a touchless car wash and suddenly the entire car was getting filled with soapy water through the rear window. What a mess to clean up!
I've reported this design flaw to ownership services and asked that they have one of their developers come up with an option for the rear window lock button to disable those windows from rear and front. I can always select to turn the option off if I want to send down a rear window. All I got back was a canned response thanking me for input that they might consider for future versions. No acknowledgement of the problem really at all. anyone else out there having this problem? It's because the door slopes down at the point where this button is for the rear window, making it easy for a knee to bump.
 
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me. I try to be vigilant about checking it, but on numerous occasions I've come out from the grocery store or a restaurant to find the window down. Once I went through a touchless car wash and suddenly the entire car was getting filled with soapy water through the rear window. What a mess to clean up!
I've reported this design flaw to ownership services and asked that they have one of their developers come up with an option for the rear window lock button to disable those windows from rear and front. I can always select to turn the option off if I want to send down a rear window. All I got back was a canned response thanking me for input that they might consider for future versions. No acknowledgement of the problem really at all. anyone else out there having this problem? It's because the door slopes down at the point where this button is for the rear window, making it easy for a knee to bump.

Will try this later, in my head at least I can't imagine how your knee could bump one of the switches, but maybe it'll all make sense soon.

On another note, has anyone complained about the noise from the pano roof when tilted? When it's fully open it's fine, but tilted it makes a hell of a noise, clearly because of the huge gap that opens up between the car roof and the leading edge of the pano roof. To me, it's unusable in tilt-mode, aside from venting the car when it's sat in a parking lot all day.
 
On another note, has anyone complained about the noise from the pano roof when tilted? When it's fully open it's fine, but tilted it makes a hell of a noise, clearly because of the huge gap that opens up between the car roof and the leading edge of the pano roof. To me, it's unusable in tilt-mode, aside from venting the car when it's sat in a parking lot all day.

Yeah, just open it an inch and it is much quieter. Tilt is only good for parking.
 
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me.

Wow, really glad to happen across your post because the same thing happens to me all the time and I thought I had a unique physiological problem! I've learned to minimize it by careful seat adjustment which I am still tweaking. But the more comfortable I get with the car the more likely I am to move and bump the switch... I did think of one way to fix this. It seems one fuse may be dedicated to that door window motor from my reading of the manual. If it doesn't kill other needed circuits there is the possibility for us to put in a remote controlled electrical switch on that window via the fuse box. Following other threads we could even use Homelink to activate/deactivate the kill switch relay. Thinking is as far as I got so far on this problem, but I could do some experiments if it helps others with the same issue.
 
I went and sat in my car and I can't fathom how my knee could even get close to pressing the window controls without having a detachable limb, but obviously it happens for some of you.

FWIW, my unresponsive car was apparently the dreaded 12V problem. Not sure why after 10 months it kicked in.
 
I went and sat in my car and I can't fathom how my knee could even get close to pressing the window controls without having a detachable limb, but obviously it happens for some of you.

FWIW, my unresponsive car was apparently the dreaded 12V problem. Not sure why after 10 months it kicked in.
I'm with you on this one, no matter how I tried, I couldn't press the buttons with my knees.
 
Since I got my P85 in Dec I have consistently had a problem with my left knee bumping the rear passenger window button and sending it down unknown to me.

I had the exact same thing happen to me two or three times shortly after getting the car. When I first came out and discovered the window down, I immediately thought it was some sort of software bug that dropped the window while I was parked. Someone on the forums mentioned this was a possibility and since then I've managed to avoid the area with my knee. I would tend to hit it when reaching out the window with my RF fob to open a gate at work.

- - - Updated - - -

On another note, has anyone complained about the noise from the pano roof when tilted? When it's fully open it's fine, but tilted it makes a hell of a noise, clearly because of the huge gap that opens up between the car roof and the leading edge of the pano roof. To me, it's unusable in tilt-mode, aside from venting the car when it's sat in a parking lot all day.

The root of the problem is that the roof doesn't really have a "tilt" mode. I think that's why Tesla calls it "Vent" mode. My last car's pano roof actually would "tilt" and keep the forward edge sealed, but what Tesla does is just start the normal "opening" process and stop it after a couple of inches. Again, on my last car if it was in "tilt" mode, it would actually close, then go into "slide" mode when you wanted to open it fully. The Tesla just keeps on opening.
 
I went and sat in my car and I can't fathom how my knee could even get close to pressing the window controls without having a detachable limb, but obviously it happens for some of you.

FWIW, my unresponsive car was apparently the dreaded 12V problem. Not sure why after 10 months it kicked in.

I had a similar issue - had the 12v battery problem after just over 10k miles. Was replaced and everything is fine again.
 
Wow, really glad to happen across your post because the same thing happens to me all the time and I thought I had a unique physiological problem! I've learned to minimize it by careful seat adjustment which I am still tweaking. But the more comfortable I get with the car the more likely I am to move and bump the switch... I did think of one way to fix this. It seems one fuse may be dedicated to that door window motor from my reading of the manual. If it doesn't kill other needed circuits there is the possibility for us to put in a remote controlled electrical switch on that window via the fuse box. Following other threads we could even use Homelink to activate/deactivate the kill switch relay. Thinking is as far as I got so far on this problem, but I could do some experiments if it helps others with the same issue.

Interesting to see here that I'm not the only one having this problem. I've also found that tweaking my seat adjustment helps a little. But I really think that short of a door redesign (which is unrealistic for our current version) it really shouldn't be a big deal for Tesla to offer the option to have the rear seat window disable button apply to only rear seat passengers or both front/rear. That would solve the problem for me. If I then want either rear or front passengers to lower a rear window I could just toggle disable button to once again enable them.
 
I did think of one way to fix this. It seems one fuse may be dedicated to that door window motor from my reading of the manual. If it doesn't kill other needed circuits there is the possibility for us to put in a remote controlled electrical switch on that window via the fuse box. Following other threads we could even use Homelink to activate/deactivate the kill switch relay.

This may make it hard to open the door, if not impossible, since the windows slide down a bit under that chrome trim as you pull the door handle.