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Nag reduced with 2017.46

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It is not "just hold" there is a slight resistance. Hard to explain

I tend to think of it as a very slight 'checking to see of there is play in the wheel attached to the column".
I almost subconsciously try to wiggle the steering wheel every minute or so. It's not enough force to actually move the wheel at all. Think like you are checking a bolt to see if it is finger tight and no more.
 
While I'd love nothing more than to agree with you 100%, I can't. At least not until AP2 no longer blindly follows high contrast tar lines believing them to be lane markers. Less bad in .44, but was still bad in .42. I don't have .46 yet so can't comment on it.

If you've never experienced a diagonal crack repaired with a pour of tar, consider yourself lucky. Very lucky. It will, at highway speed, veer violently towards something that, without a hand poised to grip the wheel to instantly cause a disengagement, will scare the crap out of you.

Perhaps it's not common in CA without the winter weather and tons of salt, plowing and freeze and thaw cycles, but it is on many roads in PA.

Yep, been there done that...
 
Yes, my tar line incident was prior to .36. (Forget the exact version.)

That said, keeping my hands on my lap would still seems too bold for me. The experiences of the past 9 months are not erased that quickly...

Building trust takes time.
Oh I'm not claiming AP is perfect. I simply question whether the difference in response time between hands-in-lap and one-hand-resting-on-wheel is significant enough to make a change in crash statistics. When your hand is just resting on a spoke in the wheel, or on the edge - it isn't exactly in the "ready" stance - you have very little, if any real control to make a decisive maneuver in a split second. You still need to bring your other hand to the wheel and move your resting hand into a control position. The difference in time between the two is so slight I'm not sure the resting on the wheel is in fact any faster at all. The key driver to me is whether or not you are paying attention to the road.
 
Help me out here - I dont really have tar lines, I have rutted, damaged lanes that are in the wheel track - perhaps from heavy trucks. When I was a morotcyle driver, I'd ride closer to the center and not have my steering wheel in this rut. My AP seems to look at the white lines and splits the diff, keeping me centered. I'd like to move it off centered a little bit - say 60% instead of 50% such that my track is not in the damaged road section. Is there any way to nudge the car to stay a little off center?
 
Help me out here - I dont really have tar lines, I have rutted, damaged lanes that are in the wheel track - perhaps from heavy trucks. When I was a morotcyle driver, I'd ride closer to the center and not have my steering wheel in this rut. My AP seems to look at the white lines and splits the diff, keeping me centered. I'd like to move it off centered a little bit - say 60% instead of 50% such that my track is not in the damaged road section. Is there any way to nudge the car to stay a little off center?
Not that I'm aware of, no.
 
I'd like to move it off centered a little bit - say 60% instead of 50% such that my track is not in the damaged road section. Is there any way to nudge the car to stay a little off center?

Unfortunately, no. I’d love to see it too for deeply truck worn roads for rain. Would help prevent hydroplaning by driving more on the crown than the flooded ruts.
 
The one advantage of hands on wheel is that you can also feel the suddend movement of the steering wheel instead of just watching it when AP does anything funny. I then close my hand tight on the wheel to prevent bad things from happening. A little faster than moving hands from lap onto wheel.

Bingo. While you can often tell based on the road and traffic conditions when AP might do something wonky, you can instantly feel the wheel start to turn when it shouldn’t be turning, and tighten your grip on the wheel which forces a disengagement. At highway speeds, lap to wheel time doesn’t leave much time for corrective action.

I think @calisnow is too used to typical LA traffic and probably doesn’t get much above 10 MPH. ;) At least based on the traffic jam I saw on the news for Thanksgiving on “the” 405. Locals said it was typical rush hour traffic?!? :eek:
 
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I agree. Keeping my hands on the wheel alerts me the moment AP makes an inappropriate move and resisting that move puts me in control.
During yesterday's long tired drive I thought AP was engaged when it wasn't. As I drifted to the edge of the lane I made the correction to recenter and discovered that AP was not engaged.
These events give me the confidence that together (AP & me) we are safer than either alone.
I also noticed that I am much less tired after a long drive with AP than without it.
 
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Unfortunately, no. I’d love to see it too for deeply truck worn roads for rain. Would help prevent hydroplaning by driving more on the crown than the flooded ruts.
So in my imagination, I could see making the camera look to the left a bit by my scroll wheel, then reverting to center at about nag-frequency. Would anyone else want this "improvement" to be listed on future work? [or offer an even better solution?]
 
Unless you’re on the development team, good luck with that?

I suggested a long time ago we should have some way of offsetting in the lane, and was basically told good luck with that. Just passing it on. o_O

In reality it would be nice. I rarely manually drive centered in the lane, as I want to see around traffic in front of me just to see as far down the road as I can. Just seeing two cars ahead, for me, is not enough.
 
Bingo. While you can often tell based on the road and traffic conditions when AP might do something wonky, you can instantly feel the wheel start to turn when it shouldn’t be turning, and tighten your grip on the wheel which forces a disengagement. At highway speeds, lap to wheel time doesn’t leave much time for corrective action.

I think @calisnow is too used to typical LA traffic and probably doesn’t get much above 10 MPH. ;) At least based on the traffic jam I saw on the news for Thanksgiving on “the” 405. Locals said it was typical rush hour traffic?!? :eek:
10 mph? I can't remember the last time I got to go that fast on the 405. Let's cut the crazy talk ok?
 
The one advantage of hands on wheel is that you can also feel the suddend movement of the steering wheel instead of just watching it when AP does anything funny. I then close my hand tight on the wheel to prevent bad things from happening. A little faster than moving hands from lap onto wheel.

Yeah, I would imagine having a hand or hands on the wheel should allow for faster reaction. How much faster is a good question, but somewhat at least.

I've been following the one hand trick since, I think @Pale_Rider suggested it, as a solution to nagging. Something about two hands evening themselves out too much for the wheel to notice they're there. I've indeed felt that a single hand gets less nags than two hands, or at least did at the .36 level. Perhaps the later versions have been a little better with two hands on the wheel, when I've tried?

Anyway, even with that one hand, I do feel like I can react faster than with no hands. That one hand sits pretty firmly on the wheel and my insticts probably will grab and hold it faster than my thinking does, wheel need be. At least once was there a dangerous-feeling movement on the highway that I immediately grabbed with this one hand setup, in one of the more recent versions (.36 or .40, I think, but I forget).
 
I've kinda learned how to handle nags, and can feel the tugs described above. But I'm still trying to find the right way to do one-pedal-driving. I cant seem to activate regen fully. I feel that coming up to a stoplight with cars already stopped, that my car approaches too fast and I have to press the brake to slow down. If I had a paddle, I'd be hitting it instead of the brake. I can take the car out of cruise and get some regen.
Any advice as to how to be a better Regen Driver?