I think it was first owned by a Pixar executive in the San Francisco area.
I think those seats it has may have been from a 2.x Roadster Sport.
The TESLA stitching with the red S was usually for later sport model roadster.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
New Member Looking for a Roadster
- Thread starter hanknum
- Start date
I think it was first owned by a Pixar executive in the San Francisco area.
I think those seats it has may have been from a 2.x Roadster Sport.
The TESLA stitching with the red S was usually for later sport model roadster.
Thanks for the offerLogistics? Where do you want me to drive it back from?
Might have it sooner than later...I'll keep you guys informed.
Man! Is this thing quick.
Man! Is this thing loud.
Man! Does this thing draw attention.
I didn't think that there was any way that this thing could be louder and harder to get into than the 308, but I was wrong. The tire/road noise was eye opening. This thing is much more stiffly sprung than he 308. And, the ingress & egress is much more difficult than the 308. No worries though, I didn't get this to be a cruiser or commuter car. It is quick, fun (understeers more than I wish...have to look into that), and unique. I've only put a little over 100 miles on it, so I'll have more impressions later.
One question though...I plan on only driving it every couple/few days. And work is 8 miles one way. With this limited usage, I was thinking it would be best to charge it in storage mode and then standard mode only when I know I'll be needing the additional range. What do you think?
Also, would it be better for the battery to mainly just use the 110V charge and only use 220V when I need a quicker charge. I could probably get away with the 110V most of the time due to the days in between.
Thanks.
backmost
Member
Not sure how hot it gets in the summer where you are, but charging on 110V won't let the HVAC kick on to cool the battery down until it reaches 40°C whereas the threshold is much lower with charging on 220V. Plus with the OVMS you can do cooldown cycles on 220V which basically puts the car in a range mode charge allowing the HVAC to turn on for 45 minutes or so to bring down the battery temps. Sometimes in the summer after a particularly hot day or after some spirited driving....I'll do a cooldown cycle to bring the battery closer to 30°C
Because of the increased tire pressures any worn or tire getting close to the mark gets super noisy. My drive home on continentals I thought the road noise was over exaggerated, my other wheels are super noisy in comparison.
If you have the 120V charger just be aware the wall plug end can fail, this just means you put a normal one on and your good to go. I charge at work in 12A 110 and get 50-60km over 12-14 hours. So most of the time its plenty. Higher voltage and more amps also allows for battery cooling so its not a bad idea to use the higher voltage also. Theres an argument for both but I think if you check on the charging status while your not using it or use something like the open evse/juice box charger or a OVMS you can keep an eye on whats going on
If you have the 120V charger just be aware the wall plug end can fail, this just means you put a normal one on and your good to go. I charge at work in 12A 110 and get 50-60km over 12-14 hours. So most of the time its plenty. Higher voltage and more amps also allows for battery cooling so its not a bad idea to use the higher voltage also. Theres an argument for both but I think if you check on the charging status while your not using it or use something like the open evse/juice box charger or a OVMS you can keep an eye on whats going on
I think 240V is preferred for charging. 120V is really just meant for emergency backup if you can't find better.
IMHO, charging 240V@24amp or 240V@32amp would be ideal.
Charging at 60amps or higher may put some extra strain on things.
Sig72
Member
Charging in standard mode will keep the battery cells balanced over time. Storage mode does not do this. I really don't see any reason not to just plug it in to a 120v outlet (if that's all you have), and let the car manage things. Storage mode is better for long term non-use; if you'll be driving it at least a few times per month, I think standard charging will be best.
As noted, you don't get the active cooling when charging at 120v, but as long as the car is not sitting in the sun, you should be fine. 240v is best. I charge mine at 24 amps, which is plenty for both active cooling and gives me a full charge over night, yet is gentle on all the parts (including the wall outlet and connector).
As noted, you don't get the active cooling when charging at 120v, but as long as the car is not sitting in the sun, you should be fine. 240v is best. I charge mine at 24 amps, which is plenty for both active cooling and gives me a full charge over night, yet is gentle on all the parts (including the wall outlet and connector).
Completely agree with the above recommendations: 240V at around 24A (or <40 or so)
- enables better battery cooling
- lower current easier on the battery, this is more important as cells age and impedance of the negative electrode goes up.
- keeps cells balanced. Unbalanced you, in theory, run the risk of overstressing unbalanced cells, but sig72 seems to have no problem
All this being said, it is still amazing we are at 10 years+ and a good number of the original batteries are working fine. As a community we have a wealth of charging data and effects on long term life if we could collect it like the early spreadsheet that circulated the forum about 5 years ago. I believe some always charged at 70A etc. so it would be interesting to see. Challenge is that many cars were charged with different currents with age and also owners, so it may be a challenge to quantify easily.
- enables better battery cooling
- lower current easier on the battery, this is more important as cells age and impedance of the negative electrode goes up.
- keeps cells balanced. Unbalanced you, in theory, run the risk of overstressing unbalanced cells, but sig72 seems to have no problem
All this being said, it is still amazing we are at 10 years+ and a good number of the original batteries are working fine. As a community we have a wealth of charging data and effects on long term life if we could collect it like the early spreadsheet that circulated the forum about 5 years ago. I believe some always charged at 70A etc. so it would be interesting to see. Challenge is that many cars were charged with different currents with age and also owners, so it may be a challenge to quantify easily.
In my case, I took ownership of 504 last August and used 120V for about 3 months, easily replacing the 20-30% of the battery that I used as a result of my typical 40mile commute. And as a new owner I obsessed quite a bit over charging efficiency, finding that it was typically only 50-60% by watching what the trip kWH used from the battery and what was shown as being put into the battery from the power company.
After some research into efficiency, found that the consensus was the 240/24A or 240/32A charging results in the best efficiency and I installed 240V circuit and purchased UMC and CAN Sr. It’s now winter and I’m using 30-40% of the battery per day due to lower temps and use of the heater and charging efficiency is now 70-80%, and charging time is now about 2hrs daily instead of the 10 hours or so that it was last summer / fall.
My research into battery lifetime, which was based on considering how many years the battery would be expected to last was that it wsn’t wasn’t worth influencing what I did with the battery just for the purpose of maximizing it’s lifetime. This conclusion, I came to based on expecting to drive 10000 miles per year, with the worst case treatment of the battery (lots of range charges and running the battery down to a low depth of charge) probably resulting in 8 years lifetime and best case treatment of the battery resulting in lifetime being twice that.
So, I just plug it in nightly, charge it in standard mode, and enjoy the car. I still obsess over the 70-80% number and track it weekly instead of daily like I did when I first got the car, but I don’t believe there’s anything I can do about the number other than observe it, and hope that warmer weather improves the eifficiency. I calculate “driving MPGE” and “after charging MPGE” number based on the cost of premium gas in my area and electricity cost in my area and the 70-80% number means around 110 MPGE driving and 80 MPGE after charging.
I took a trip to Houston a couple of weeks ago as saw that the cost of gas was 30% less there than where I live, so... your mileage may vary.
Enjoy the car!!!
After some research into efficiency, found that the consensus was the 240/24A or 240/32A charging results in the best efficiency and I installed 240V circuit and purchased UMC and CAN Sr. It’s now winter and I’m using 30-40% of the battery per day due to lower temps and use of the heater and charging efficiency is now 70-80%, and charging time is now about 2hrs daily instead of the 10 hours or so that it was last summer / fall.
My research into battery lifetime, which was based on considering how many years the battery would be expected to last was that it wsn’t wasn’t worth influencing what I did with the battery just for the purpose of maximizing it’s lifetime. This conclusion, I came to based on expecting to drive 10000 miles per year, with the worst case treatment of the battery (lots of range charges and running the battery down to a low depth of charge) probably resulting in 8 years lifetime and best case treatment of the battery resulting in lifetime being twice that.
So, I just plug it in nightly, charge it in standard mode, and enjoy the car. I still obsess over the 70-80% number and track it weekly instead of daily like I did when I first got the car, but I don’t believe there’s anything I can do about the number other than observe it, and hope that warmer weather improves the eifficiency. I calculate “driving MPGE” and “after charging MPGE” number based on the cost of premium gas in my area and electricity cost in my area and the 70-80% number means around 110 MPGE driving and 80 MPGE after charging.
I took a trip to Houston a couple of weeks ago as saw that the cost of gas was 30% less there than where I live, so... your mileage may vary.
Enjoy the car!!!
Thanks for all the responses guys.
Summers here in Santa Barbara are usually pretty mild...max around 90, maybe a couple days in the 100's. How exactly do you do the cool down cycle?
The tire/road noise I was getting was due in large part to under inflated fronts...they were down to 25psi. I increased to 32 and seems much better. But, the tire noise is much louder when going from asphalt to concrete...just keep reminding myself, this is a sports car and not a daily driver. Sorry, but what is an OVMS?
Yeah, I'll probably stick to 240V @ 24A (I installed the 240V last w/e)...I'm not in a big hurry, and whatever I can do to extend the life of the battery. How do you charge in storage mode and get 80-100 miles daily? When I charge in that mode, it limits it to around 50 miles. If I keep it in standard mode and only drive it a couple times a week, is it OK to always have the battery "topped off"?
I ended up trading the Ferrari straight across...not a single dollar changed hands. Both were advertised at $50k and IMO both were valued in the mid 40's. But Brad at San Francisco Sports Cars made it happen w/o me having to do anything. He trailered the Roadster down and then took the 308 up with him. I can not recommend him enough.
Again, thanks everyone for their input...I'm learning a lot.
Summers here in Santa Barbara are usually pretty mild...max around 90, maybe a couple days in the 100's. How exactly do you do the cool down cycle?
The tire/road noise I was getting was due in large part to under inflated fronts...they were down to 25psi. I increased to 32 and seems much better. But, the tire noise is much louder when going from asphalt to concrete...just keep reminding myself, this is a sports car and not a daily driver. Sorry, but what is an OVMS?
Yeah, I'll probably stick to 240V @ 24A (I installed the 240V last w/e)...I'm not in a big hurry, and whatever I can do to extend the life of the battery. How do you charge in storage mode and get 80-100 miles daily? When I charge in that mode, it limits it to around 50 miles. If I keep it in standard mode and only drive it a couple times a week, is it OK to always have the battery "topped off"?
I ended up trading the Ferrari straight across...not a single dollar changed hands. Both were advertised at $50k and IMO both were valued in the mid 40's. But Brad at San Francisco Sports Cars made it happen w/o me having to do anything. He trailered the Roadster down and then took the 308 up with him. I can not recommend him enough.
Again, thanks everyone for their input...I'm learning a lot.
OVMS: Open Vehicles | Open Vehicle Monitoring System
Add on (3rd party non-Tesla) module you can hook to your Roadster to be able to do some remote things. Like check logs, checking charging, etc.
Add on (3rd party non-Tesla) module you can hook to your Roadster to be able to do some remote things. Like check logs, checking charging, etc.
If you flip the charging to range mode for 30 minutes it will automatically cool the battery if it’s warm. That’s what I did on my cross country trip.
