Out of Warranty Drive Unit Replacement and Cost

[danielk04]

Hi Daniel

Thank you for the reply. I am most interested in what you used to R&R the unit, similar to what howard64 has done here. You seem to have a nice setup to R&R these. From howards experience, the motorcycle jack was quite critical to removing the unit safely without damaging anything else. Johan (VanR) has a rav4 and thus the unit comes out much differently than the whole rear subframe on a model S.

Okay Mr. Beastie, it sounds like you're looking for tooling information, here you go:

Purchased in 2017 and perfect for SAFELY lifting the Model S is the Quickjack 6000ELX. Portable Car Lift - Home Car Lift - BendPak

Next is a nice little Harbor Freight cart to roll under, raise up, then lower the entire subframe assembly. 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart

Now for separating subframe from Drive Unit and manipulating LDU, a hoist. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZQR6D4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Don't forget a modified windshield wiper removal tool for reluctor wheel extraction.

 

[dark cloud]

Next is a nice little Harbor Freight cart to roll under, raise up, then lower the entire subframe assembly. 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart

Supervisor with safety shoes and purple shirt not included.

 

[howardc64]

Okay Mr. Beastie, it sounds like you're looking for tooling information, here you go:

Purchased in 2017 and perfect for SAFELY lifting the Model S is the Quickjack 6000ELX. Portable Car Lift - Home Car Lift - BendPak

Next is a nice little Harbor Freight cart to roll under, raise up, then lower the entire subframe assembly. 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart

Nice setup, hydraulic table goes straight up/down with a scissor mechanism. A little easier than angled arm lift mechanism like motorcycle jack and some tranny jacks (very little clearance in front and rear of subframe). The min height of the table might need car up a little higher than I had it. Quickjack makes that easy. Just need to invest $2k for tooling haha.

Question on quickjack, does it clear the battery pack completely and can be used to drop the pack? (in case the original contactors goes on my 13 MS, that thing is clicking on/off all the time haha) Quickjack does move car forward/backward during vertical motion so perhaps can't align the battery pack connector properly anyways (I think rich rebuilds smashed his connector with DIY at home battery pack reinstall) so would need a lift and/or big lift table to strictly vertically move the car and/or battery pack up and down (electrified garage have a video using a borescope to check the connector's alignment on battery reinstall and this was with a 2 post lift and a lift table haha) Maybe 2 smaller lift table like you had on front/back of battery pack could work if can handle the 1k lb battery pack.

@beastman Since no leak yet and have time to gather tools, see if can find a used vertical subframe lift/lower jig. Recently saw a used HF pallet jack near me for $100 haha. I think there is also a video of rich rebuilds dropping it with a board and like 3 floor jacks but lack of control probably isn't desirable.

But yeah, the car seems to be designed while having a 2 post lift and lift table around haha.

 

[Wim_V]

I use a scissor lift and scissor table, works great.

 

[danielk04]

Nice setup, hydraulic table goes straight up/down with a scissor mechanism. A little easier than angled arm lift mechanism like motorcycle jack and some tranny jacks (very little clearance in front and rear of subframe). The min height of the table might need car up a little higher than I had it. Quickjack makes that easy. Just need to invest $2k for tooling haha.

Question on quickjack, does it clear the battery pack completely and can be used to drop the pack? (in case the original contactors goes on my 13 MS, that thing is clicking on/off all the time haha) Quickjack does move car forward/backward during vertical motion so perhaps can't align the battery pack connector properly anyways (I think rich rebuilds smashed his connector with DIY at home battery pack reinstall) so would need a lift and/or big lift table to strictly vertically move the car and/or battery pack up and down (electrified garage have a video using a borescope to check the connector's alignment on battery reinstall and this was with a 2 post lift and a lift table haha) Maybe 2 smaller lift table like you had on front/back of battery pack could work if can handle the 1k lb battery pack.

@beastman Since no leak yet and have time to gather tools, see if can find a used vertical subframe lift/lower jig. Recently saw a used HF pallet jack near me for $100 haha. I think there is also a video of rich rebuilds dropping it with a board and like 3 floor jacks but lack of control probably isn't desirable.

But yeah, the car seems to be designed while having a 2 post lift and lift table around haha.

I didn't realize it at the time , but the Quick Jack will NOT allow Tesla high voltage battery removal.
You need to use a two-post lift such as MaxJax. Live and learn.
I have a 1760 pound cart from Amazon on my list for when battery day comes for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4D4RJ...colid=6MPE8I7VSMKH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[beastman]

Okay Mr. Beastie, it sounds like you're looking for tooling information, here you go:

Purchased in 2017 and perfect for SAFELY lifting the Model S is the Quickjack 6000ELX. Portable Car Lift - Home Car Lift - BendPak

Next is a nice little Harbor Freight cart to roll under, raise up, then lower the entire subframe assembly. 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart

Now for separating subframe from Drive Unit and manipulating LDU, a hoist. Amazon.com

Don't forget a modified windshield wiper removal tool for reluctor wheel extraction.

View attachment 861064View attachment 861065

The quickjack seems really great for this application and maintenance, but at $2200 or so I might be better off doing a 2 post lift in my 40x60 shop for $3500. Would be great for most owners to do general maintenance besides a battery drop. I have too many cars and projects and the lift is a good excuse to give the wife that I might actually get some of them done before I'm dead...

It looks like I will possibly need a cart, but I do have two 5500 lb pallet jacks at my business office which don't get used much; only use them to move SMT pick and place machines. Might just need a few pallets stacked to pull out the subframe.

I do have a big HF 3 ton engine hoist and 800 pound transmission jack as well that I used for a R&R of a honda accord engine/trans swap in 2020. Also have two 3 ton floor jacks and the lifting pucks.

Do you have a link to to the windshield wiper removal tool or explain how it needs to be modified for this application? I found one identical to yours here for $10.00 but not sure what needs to be modded. https://www.amazon.com/CARTMAN-Battery-Terminal-Bearing-Remover/dp/B07TYLZXPK/


Thank you for the info. I was looking at getting my 18 yr old son a 2017 volt for $21k w/ super low miles but found a 2013 Model S 60 for $20k that has a leaky DU but still works and tempted to jump on it and perform this procedure. The volt is probably more reliable at this point...



2013 Model S P85 65k miles, 21" Turbines, Moonroof
1st DU replaced at 30k miles w/ RevT
85kw battery replaced 6/2022 w/ 59k miles

 

[vanR]

Do you have a link to to the windshield wiper removal tool or explain how it needs to be modified for this application? I found one identical to yours here for $10.00 but not sure what needs to be modded. Amazon.com

That's one option! Grind away the four rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts, otherwise it's impossible to push the puller's "teeth" through the reluctor wheel's slots. Reluctor wheel disassembly procedure (if I understood Dan correctly):

1. Separate the bolts/nuts/jaws from the puller,
2. individually push the "teeth" of the separated jaws through opposing reluctor wheel slots (each ~0.6" wide),
3. assemble the puller with the nuts and bolts (while fingers are still in slots),
4. put a sheet of soft material between puller and shaft (to protect the shaft end),
5. pull out reluctor wheel by rotating the puller handle.

 

[halo10v2]

I have P85D from 2015, 150k miles and warranty expires 3/2022. I just had an inverter replaced for $1800 and am wondering if there was LDU issues that they just ignored or didn't check. I have been dealing with a high pitched whining when accelerating from 0-30 but am not sure if this is the milling sound people talk about. I plan on checking for liquid through the speed sensor but does anyone have any recommendations of how to deal with Tesla to get this fixed under warranty? Has anyone done this and what has your experience been?

 

[Droschke]

I have P85D from 2015, 150k miles and warranty expires 3/2022. I just had an inverter replaced for $1800 and am wondering if there was LDU issues that they just ignored or didn't check. I have been dealing with a high pitched whining when accelerating from 0-30 but am not sure if this is the milling sound people talk about. I plan on checking for liquid through the speed sensor but does anyone have any recommendations of how to deal with Tesla to get this fixed under warranty? Has anyone done this and what has your experience been?

This is how a milling noise sounds. Starting at 7 second timestamp. Ignore the wind noise. It's that high pitch screeching noise you hear. Like a dry door jamb opening/closing that needs lubrication.

As for the warranty coverage, your car is out of warranty. Tesla won't cover it.

 

[howardc64]

I have P85D from 2015, 150k miles and warranty expires 3/2022. I just had an inverter replaced for $1800

Isn't 2015 8 year unlimited drive train warranty expire in 2023? If so, curious why you had to pay for inverter replacement? Front or rear DU inverter? And what was the cause of inverter damage?

am wondering if there was LDU issues that they just ignored or didn't check. I have been dealing with a high pitched whining when accelerating from 0-30 but am not sure if this is the milling sound people talk about. I plan on checking for liquid through the speed sensor but does anyone have any recommendations of how to deal with Tesla to get this fixed under warranty? Has anyone done this and what has your experience been?

When was your last LDU replacement and @ what miles?

Defn check speed sensor for leak if you are still under warranty. Tesla has some kind of HQ mandate starting ~2019 to stop replacing LDU from "acceptable noise level". I requested LDU whine noise eval annually since 2019 and was told "within noise level" each time. Recently heard faint higher pitch noise and discovered coolant on speed sensor. On LDU teardown, it seems to have been leaking for quite awhile. Likely while car was still under warranty a couple of years ago.

Setup SC appointment via app with speed sensor coolant leak pic attached and described and was quoted $450 for diagnostic fee for out of warranty car (13 MS85) Tried to reach long time service center manager that has been at Bellevue SC since 12-13 whom I had a great service relationship (In the early days, Bellevue SC kept on replacing revised parts on goodwill with every SC visit without request. It seems they knew lots of problematic components was shipped with original car and was doing right by customer) SC manager recently left/retired. I'm guessing cashed out of maxed out Tesla stock and got tired dealing with post warranty frustrated early MS customers navigating through the thoroughly frustrating app service experience (just my guess)

So basically most likely have to use the app. Non interactive text with unknown person seemingly without car knowledge as they try to follow some kind of HQ designed service decision tree.

Anyway, if you are still under warranty, pull your speed sensor and check. Arm yourself with evidence before navigating though Tesla's cost cutting process.

 

[Droschke]

I have P85D from 2015, 150k miles and warranty expires 3/2022.

Isn't 2015 8 year unlimited drive train warranty expire in 2023? If so, curious why you had to pay for inverter replacement? Front or rear DU inverter?

Yeah, those two dates confused me as well.

 

[dark cloud]

This is how a milling noise sounds. Ignore the wind noise. It's that high pitch screeching noise you hear. Like a dry door jamb opening/closing that needs lubrication.

or like this :

 

[Droschke]

or like this :

Exactly. Now, how would one know if it's the cicada stuck somewhere in the car or it's the car itself?

 

[halo10v2]

Isn't 2015 8 year unlimited drive train warranty expire in 2023? If so, curious why you had to pay for inverter replacement? Front or rear DU inverter? And what was the cause of inverter damage?



When was your last LDU replacement and @ what miles?

Defn check speed sensor for leak if you are still under warranty. Tesla has some kind of HQ mandate starting ~2019 to stop replacing LDU from "acceptable noise level". I requested LDU whine noise eval annually since 2019 and was told "within noise level" each time. Recently heard faint higher pitch noise and discovered coolant on speed sensor. On LDU teardown, it seems to have been leaking for quite awhile. Likely while car was still under warranty a couple of years ago.

Setup SC appointment via app with speed sensor coolant leak pic attached and described and was quoted $450 for diagnostic fee for out of warranty car (13 MS85) Tried to reach long time service center manager that has been at Bellevue SC since 12-13 whom I had a great service relationship (In the early days, Bellevue SC kept on replacing revised parts on goodwill with every SC visit without request. It seems they knew lots of problematic components was shipped with original car and was doing right by customer) SC manager recently left/retired. I'm guessing cashed out of maxed out Tesla stock and got tired dealing with post warranty frustrated early MS customers navigating through the thoroughly frustrating app service experience (just my guess)

So basically most likely have to use the app. Non interactive text with unknown person seemingly without car knowledge as they try to follow some kind of HQ designed service decision tree.

Anyway, if you are still under warranty, pull your speed sensor and check. Arm yourself with evidence before navigating though Tesla's cost cutting process.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. The warranty expires 3/2023. The car has 150k miles. I have not had any drive unit replaced and it had not been with the previous owners.

They did not tell me which inverter it was and I didn't realize it was part of the drive unit and will be emailing them asking them these questions. I have just had the car for a little over a year and this was the first work I had done on it.

Thanks for the advice and I will be bugging the Lynnwood SC soon.

 

[dark cloud]

Exactly. Now, how would one know if it's the cicada stuck somewhere in the car or it's the car itself?

I don't live anywhere near cicada bugs, so I have no idea how they got in my drive unit.

 

[dshin]

I have an out-of-warranty 2013 P85 Model S with less than 20k miles, and started experiencing a constant “thumping” at low (parking) speeds, which might be the same as the “milling” described in this post. Chicago SC told me I need an RDU replacement, which will cost over $6k.

I guess I have no option but to pay this if I want to continue to own this car?

If I want to just cut my losses with this car and sell it, would it be better to hand off the repair to the next owner?

 

[Auto007]

I have an out-of-warranty 2013 P85 Model S with less than 20k miles, and started experiencing a constant “thumping” at low (parking) speeds, which might be the same as the “milling” described in this post. Chicago SC told me I need an RDU replacement, which will cost over $6k.

I guess I have no option but to pay this if I want to continue to own this car?

If I want to just cut my losses with this car and sell it, would it be better to hand off the repair to the next owner?

I would think you would get more $$ if you still decide to sell it after the replacement of the RDU, that will have 4 year warranty on it as an incentive in this market we are in as long as the gas prices stay high.

 

[dshin]

I would think you would get more $$ if you still decide to sell it after the replacement of the RDU, that will have 4 year warranty on it as an incentive in this market we are in as long as the gas prices stay high.

Sorry, what do you mean by this exactly? Are you suggesting that if the car would sell for, say, $15k unrepaired, and if the repair would cost $6.5k, that the car would sell for more than $21.5k repaired?

 

[Auto007]

Sorry, what do you mean by this exactly? Are you suggesting that if the car would sell for, say, $15k unrepaired, and if the repair would cost $6.5k, that the car would sell for more than $21.5k repaired?

Your car value will be less since the repairs are going to be needed for the RDU. Buyer might be more worried about what else could be wrong involving the repairs. If the repair was done by you, you would be selling the car in good running condition to the best of your knowledge. For example, you post the car for $21.5K versus if you sell a car in good running condition you might get more than $30K, you would make up the repair cost and some additional $$. You should research what others in the Chicago area are selling similar specs Tesla models for, just to give yourself a good selling number to go with. Based on what others are selling the same spec model for, you will know if it's worth repairing the car and selling it or just sell without repairing it, meaning you would justify which is better for you to do.

 

[mihanson]

I narrowly avoided an out of warranty replacement of my RDU on my 2015 MS 85D. Built in 03/2015, I bought the car from Tesla with 28k miles in 06/2018 and currently the car has 97k miles.

I brought it in to the Centinela Service Center in LA because I was hearing a "thunk" upon acceleration and deceleration coming from the rear motor area. The service tech diagnosis (just from listening on a validation ride) was broken motor mounts and it was going to be $2535 all-in.

Once service got into the tear down they discovered that the issue was with the RDU itself and they replaced it with a remanufacured RDU. Luckily for me, it was covered by the power train warranty which expires in just 2 months. I'm feeling very fortunate.

Here are the notes from the service:

"Verified customers concern. Upon further inspection found internal malfunction within rear drive unit. Proceeded to remove and replace rear drive unit, torqued every removed component when installed back into the vehicle, redeploy firmware, passed firmware, perform coolant vacuum refill. Took vehicle for test drive noise no longer present. no alerts, no alignment needed, vehicle has no pulls. Vehicle performs as intended."

And the part replaced:

"ASY,DRIVE,UNIT,3.0- 150,REAR SMALL, REMAN(1056855-00-G)"