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Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?

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I just noticed Michelin had a new Pilot Sport EV tire. Interesting.


They are in stock in the right size...

And those are Mercedes marked tires. Anyone troll the Merc forum to see if they have any issues? I know there are differing dynamics (weight, power, alignment, etc.) but if it is a Michelin defect as some claim, the M01 would be susceptible to potential issues as well.
 
And those are Mercedes marked tires. Anyone troll the Merc forum to see if they have any issues? I know there are differing dynamics (weight, power, alignment, etc.) but if it is a Michelin defect as some claim, the M01 would be susceptible to potential issues as well.
I know this is off topic, but I just put on 20” MO1 Pirelli pZ4 elect tires! So far I’m impressed in the last 2 days of thrashing around in 60 degree temps!

As for the Michelin MO1 tires y’all are discussing, I would be so surprised if any EQS owner was on a forum :) the ey are still figuring out smartphones!
 
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What numbers are you aligning it to? Hopefully N2itive's.
Yes, my shop aligned to their specs. I picked up the car yesterday, but don't have the alignment sheet yet. I will post it when I get it (most likely Tuesday). Car rides great, but I think the front may be a bit low for me.

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I told the shop I wanted -5 F and -6 R, but maybe they got it backwards. Yes, I realize the geometry will change if I raise or lower. Planned to bring back in for alignment anyway since the steering wheel is tilted to the left ever so slightly.
Easy fix for the steering wheel off center (left tilt). They will simply twist in the left front tie rod the equal amount of twist out on the right front tie rod to address that. If for any reason you get a steering wheel sensor error after you can cure that via the service menu.

I am running a -5/-6 setting. My guess is your rational is correct about them getting it backwards.
 

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And those are Mercedes marked tires. Anyone troll the Merc forum to see if they have any issues? I know there are differing dynamics (weight, power, alignment, etc.) but if it is a Michelin defect as some claim, the M01 would be susceptible to potential issues as well.
Complete speculation here, but I wonder if this is potentially a far, far better for the Plaid?

Tesla is all about speed of execution: ship it, then fix it later . . . .

Mercedes likely durability tests tires until destruction and, thus, ended up with this tire as OEM on their EV's, or so the Tire Rack site suggests?

Regardless, this tire may well be a more stout tire for high powered EV's.

Can't wait for some long-term comparisons from any Tesla Plaid owners that mount these tires!
 
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Yes, my shop aligned to their specs. I picked up the car yesterday, but don't have the alignment sheet yet. I will post it when I get it (most likely Tuesday). Car rides great, but I think the front may be a bit low for me.

View attachment 909074
Wow, I wonder if it would be the same for my P100D.

I'm about to do tires, alignment, and the N2itive install, so this is definitely helpful to see. I'm not trying to go THAT low lol.
 
Hi Folks - 6500 miles in and rear tires show bizarre wear on the very most inside portion making them lose 5 psi every day. Not the usual camber issue all the old model S had. At service center and they said there is a bulletin saying this is a problem because the wheels are so wide and they are scraping some internal component. Tires look perfectly even in terms of wear no threads showing.

So it’s a factory defect apparently but of course warranty doesn’t cover it.

How is this legal or fair? Am I the only one experiencing this?
Having the exact same issue - husband is trying to make it to the Tesla dealership now with a tire that appears to have a clean cut on the INSIDE of the tire that has sliced away the tread (almost like a retread) of a 1-year old Tesla Plaid with 21" tires. Both rear tires have just started to report issues with inflation. No over inflation, no sign of outside tread issue and when we pulled in to see if we had a nail or something else the issue is INSIDE the tire. Of course no one has a tire in stock but putting one on isn't going to fix this if the car is in fact ripping the tire to shreds.
 
Having the exact same issue - husband is trying to make it to the Tesla dealership now with a tire that appears to have a clean cut on the INSIDE of the tire that has sliced away the tread (almost like a retread) of a 1-year old Tesla Plaid with 21" tires. Both rear tires have just started to report issues with inflation. No over inflation, no sign of outside tread issue and when we pulled in to see if we had a nail or something else the issue is INSIDE the tire. Of course no one has a tire in stock but putting one on isn't going to fix this if the car is in fact ripping the tire to shreds.
Alignment issue. But Tesla will say within spec.

Rear Toe should be set at 0.15 to 0.20 degrees at the ride height most commonly driven in.

Rear Camber should be set at -0.75 to -0.85 degrees, at the height most commonly driven in. Aftermarket camber likely will be required for this.
 
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Alignment issue. But Tesla will say within spec.

Rear Toe should be set at 0.15 to 0.20 degrees at the ride height most commonly driven in.

Rear Camber should be set at -0.75 to -0.85 degrees, at the height most commonly driven in. Aftermarket camber likely will be required for this.
I think that is far too much toe in. My alignment specialist also mentioned that to me - was at alignment today.

He recommends .05 toe in with the torque we have in the rear because you don’t want the inside tread glue twisting.

That’s his logic. He’s also being doing alignments and works weekends in a racing team for a couple of decades.
 
This is why I said on this thread a while back that Tesla should at the very least roll out a simple update that allows owners the option to keep the car in standard ride height when on the highway (similar to the current option of maintaining a low ride height).

Prior to the refresh, Model S cars would stay in standard ride height by default, unless you selected the option for it to lower after reaching a set speed. Now we don't have that ability anymore. And btw, I can confirm that this current behavior of the car lowering automatically isn't tied exclusively to a speed on any road, it is GPS based. I consistently see my Plaid automatically lower immediately upon moving from the onramp to the highway. No where else. And once I set the suspension back to standard height, it remains there throughout the ride (unless I leave the highway and return later).

Knowing all too well about the issues of burning thru tires on my previous Model S cars while driving in low height, and after experiencing premature wear of my first set of rear 21" tires after only 9k miles, I now always move the suspension back to standard height once I get on the highway (and also for a slightly more comfortable ride). But sometimes I forget.

I get that Tesla is trying to improve driving efficiency, but this shouldn't be at the cost of consumer safety or my $$.

HEY TESLA: I'm willing to sacrifice 5% of range on my car, in exchange for not having to burn thru $2k of rubber every year and giving up peace of mind. GIVE ME THE CHOICE OF STANDARD RIDE HEIGHT OR LOW LIKE BEFORE.
 
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Having the exact same issue - husband is trying to make it to the Tesla dealership now with a tire that appears to have a clean cut on the INSIDE of the tire that has sliced away the tread (almost like a retread) of a 1-year old Tesla Plaid with 21" tires. Both rear tires have just started to report issues with inflation. No over inflation, no sign of outside tread issue and when we pulled in to see if we had a nail or something else the issue is INSIDE the tire. Of course no one has a tire in stock but putting one on isn't going to fix this if the car is in fact ripping the tire to shreds.
Call Michelin’s 800 number. File a complaint for tire failures.

Visit Discount Tire w/your claim number; order replacement tires.

File NHTSA SAFETY complaint.

Visiting Tesla will likely be a waste of your time, sadly.
 
I’m having the N2itive adjustable rear camber arms installed this week by a racing shop. Other than making sure the shop knows to put the car in Very High then Jack Mode before lifting, correct placement of lift points under the frame, and then making sure they set the suspension to Low before adjusting the camber; anything else I need to make sure this shop knows about when installing the arms? I have already sent them the instructions from N2itive.