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Power drain while idle (Vampire Load)

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How do I get my Model S to download v1.17.50 aka 4.0? In the past the downloads have been automatic and I haven't seen any "check for updates" equivalent.

They roll them out slowly by region people think (not sure we actually know). In the future, they'll likely roll them out faster but maybe they're doing very slow rollouts with these releases to see if there are any problems. Hopefully you get it soon.
 
I learned the hard way about vampire loads. I left the car in my garage for 4 days, unplugged, with 50 miles of charge on it.

I returned home to an unresponsive car.

I called the service center. They had no ideas. I e-mailed my specialist and did not get a reply. I called the Tesla # and left several messages. I finally got a call back and was told to remove the grill panel on the front and jump the car. When I asked how, I was told to use the grill removal tool. Apparently, $100,000 does not by us a grill removal tool. I eventually figured out how to remove the grill (with a little damage unfortunately) and jumped the car. Apparently, I was not told that to jump the car, the car I used to jump from must be turned OFF. So, I appear to have cooked my 12V battery. But, no one believed me when I called on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday to inquire about a terrible acidic smell. I was told it was probably food I had left in the vehicle. I had to move the vehicle outside as the smell was irritating our sinuses. Finally, 5 days after the first event, someone had an idea and logged into my car. They determined that the 12V battery had indeed been cooked. So, they took 3 more days to tell me that the battery had shipped to me. Today, 10 days after my initial call, I am being told they might fix the car (hopefully) next week. I will have 32 days of ownership with more than 14 days spent with the car immobilized in my front yard. I may be the first to exercise the lemon rule! Terribly disappointed! Service is atrocious.

PS If you get the message that your tires are low on pressure, you refill the tires and then learn that there is a tire pressure reset tool that you need or you will continue to get the tire pressure low message. We do not get that reset tool in our $100,000 purchase either! I wonder how many more secret tools have been left off the delivery slip!
 
I learned the hard way about vampire loads. I left the car in my garage for 4 days, unplugged, with 50 miles of charge on it.

I returned home to an unresponsive car.

I called the service center. They had no ideas. I e-mailed my specialist and did not get a reply. I called the Tesla # and left several messages. I finally got a call back and was told to remove the grill panel on the front and jump the car. When I asked how, I was told to use the grill removal tool. Apparently, $100,000 does not by us a grill removal tool. I eventually figured out how to remove the grill (with a little damage unfortunately) and jumped the car. Apparently, I was not told that to jump the car, the car I used to jump from must be turned OFF. So, I appear to have cooked my 12V battery. But, no one believed me when I called on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday to inquire about a terrible acidic smell. I was told it was probably food I had left in the vehicle. I had to move the vehicle outside as the smell was irritating our sinuses. Finally, 5 days after the first event, someone had an idea and logged into my car. They determined that the 12V battery had indeed been cooked. So, they took 3 more days to tell me that the battery had shipped to me. Today, 10 days after my initial call, I am being told they might fix the car (hopefully) next week. I will have 32 days of ownership with more than 14 days spent with the car immobilized in my front yard. I may be the first to exercise the lemon rule! Terribly disappointed! Service is atrocious.

PS If you get the message that your tires are low on pressure, you refill the tires and then learn that there is a tire pressure reset tool that you need or you will continue to get the tire pressure low message. We do not get that reset tool in our $100,000 purchase either! I wonder how many more secret tools have been left off the delivery slip!

Sorry to hear about your experiences. Which number were you calling, the roadside assistance or service directly? Why did you leave your car unplugged for so long with it at such a low SOC too? This would have been prevented in the first place by plugging in for a standard charge before you left it for that long. Might consider that in the future.
 
Wow, sorry to hear that. Moral of the story is 1) plug in your car every night as recommended and 2) plug in your car every night as recommended. (Sorry if that sounds unsympathetic, but forums are about learning from others people's experiences)

I thought it's impossible to jump start Model S. Putting the 12v on a charger ok, but connecting to another battery??
 
A car with 50 miles of range left unplugged should not end up being immobilized, period, especially after only 4 days. This is not acceptable, and the response from Tesla that was reported is not acceptable either. This is the type of thing that the FUD meisters who are watching this board like hawks are going to take and run with.
 
dsm. My wife unplugged it to plug in her car vacuum. She forgot to plug it back in; that is the "paul Harvey" version...
Nigel Yup, the whole experience was really astonishing. However, the built in solutions, though apparently not well understood by end service personnel (ever had an engineer explain something simple to you??? I wasn't surprised by the strange replies. TRAIN, TRAIN, TRAIN.

There appears to be a software patch that will help; but, TRAIN, TRAIN, TRAIN is all I can say. It IS a really pretty planter box….
 
We don't have a ranger here.

Yes, they did tell me to jump the car. I asked more than once and in more than one way so as to ascertain that they DID want me to jump the car, because I was reluctant to do so (I don’t jump my ICE… I use AAA for that). I was subsequently told where and how to jump the car.
 
I learned the hard way about vampire loads.

[etc]


Unacceptable. Completely. I would encourage you to escalate this as high up inside Tesla as you can. Demand to speak to George Blankenship, etc. For the benefit of the rest of us.

PS If you get the message that your tires are low on pressure, you refill the tires and then learn that there is a tire pressure reset tool that you need or you will continue to get the tire pressure low message. We do not get that reset tool in our $100,000 purchase either! I wonder how many more secret tools have been left off the delivery slip

That's not what the manual says. The manual says that once you've filled the tires, you need to drive for awhile and the warning will go away. You should only need the special tool if there's a calibration problem with the TPMS.
 
We don't have a ranger here.

Yes, they did tell me to jump the car. I asked more than once and in more than one way so as to ascertain that they DID want me to jump the car, because I was reluctant to do so (I don’t jump my ICE… I use AAA for that). I was subsequently told where and how to jump the car.

Don't think I'd like to try that, but with no ranger in Hawaii (yet) it makes things difficult. I'm curious about the power drain and why the 12v died (assuming it wasn't faulty), did you leave the key in or near the car so that it stayed "awake".
 
That's not what the manual says. The manual says that once you've filled the tires, you need to drive for awhile and the warning will go away. You should only need the special tool if there's a calibration problem with the TPMS.

It could be that the death of the 12V battery cleared some memory, and the tool was required to re-link the receivers to the sensors on the tires.

- - - Updated - - -

Don't think I'd like to try that, but with no ranger in Hawaii (yet) it makes things difficult. I'm curious about the power drain and why the 12v died (assuming it wasn't faulty), did you leave the key in or near the car so that it stayed "awake".

islesowner, sorry to hear about your story. Are you on release v4.0 of the software? There was a bug that was causing the 12v batteries to get drained on earlier software versions which has since been fixed. Can you echo the process you went through to jump it?

I expect it should have been:

1. Connect lead on red terminal of dead battery to cable.
2. Connect lead on red terminal of good battery to cable.
3. Connect lead on black terminal of dead battery to cable.
4. Connect remaining cable to a grounded, unpainted metal surface on the jump starting car.

Right when you connected the last cable charge would be flowing fairly rapidly from the jump starting car to the dead battery, so I'm surprised they advised you to have the jump starting car off at the time. Perhaps the Model S 12V battery is tiny in terms of relative capacity when compared to a typical car battery.

Perhaps you didn't fry the battery. Perhaps the battery was one of a bad batch (we also heard of this) that went out and the battery developed an internal short? In that case maybe the failure was the fault of the battery manufacturer, and not Tesla.

Good thing your car didn't catch fire or we would've had a Fisker story on our hands!

Edit: When did you get your car? That might help to determine if you had one of the bad batches of 12v batteries.
 
It could be that the death of the 12V battery cleared some memory, and the tool was required to re-link the receivers to the sensors on the tires.

In that case, you will get a different message. If your message says "Tire Pressure Low", this will clear up by itself. If your message says "Service TPMS Monitoring System" or something similar, it requires re-programming.
 
Right when you connected the last cable charge would be flowing fairly rapidly from the jump starting car to the dead battery, so I'm surprised they advised you to have the jump starting car off at the time. Perhaps the Model S 12V battery is tiny in terms of relative capacity when compared to a typical car battery.
Indeed it is, and if you have the car running that means the alternator is putting out even more power, so when you connect to the small 12V in the S it may, and apparently did, supply too much current too fast, and killed the 12V. Tesla has been having problems with 12V batteries since the Roadster, and they still have not properly addressed the issue. I think the S needs a larger 12V battery, and it needs to be a better quality unit, and it may need an input current limiter to avoid being fried when jump starting, which by the way it should never need. You should be able to flip a switch that connects the traction pack to the 12V battery through an inverter temporarily.
 
Just to add a little datapoint, I parked my car outdoors last night (it's complicated -- suffice to say that I'm working on freeing up a space in the garage), and did not plug it in because the cable won't reach.

When I parked the car, it had 106 miles of range available. When I woke the car up this morning, it was down to 72, and there were limit bars on both the regen and overall power output. It was rather chilly, so I imagine that the car had to use some energy from the pack to keep the batteries within acceptable limits.

Just something to be aware of if you happen to park in chilly (or, presumably, warm) conditions. This evening, I may try out "Range Mode"...