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20304
Member
It has been shown from wk057's "hacking" attempts that the MCU and IC display the last value if no data has been received.
oh it happened alright. My phone was upstairs and I was hearing some "snap, crackle and popping" so I decided to shut her down before I made a bad situation worse
you know, after today, there might be a whole new crop of salvage MS's coming out of NJ beach towns.
I was thinking the same thing, but the last thing I'd need are TWO flooded Teslas!
I'm leaning toward the battery not being 100% ok (judging by what my Tesla buddy told me and the condition of the parts found so far), and I'm unsure if it would have residual data displayed on the screen
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nope, Don't feel like digging that deeply into a part that I know is working, it may however come eventually
I'm only going to post bad news from now on... just for you
aha, well there you have it.
As a retired systems engineer, with a fair amount of experience collaborating with our "Field Circus" engineers, can I offer some tips? (a barter, really, since I'm considering getting a salvage car as well)
On the electrical, stuff, start by isolating things. Remove all the fuses & fusible links. Then energize and test each sub circuit one at a time. Invest in a current limited power supply that has both voltage & current meters built in. Then you can energize sub-circuits without damaging the wiring if there is a short.
Also get a label maker, or some labeled tape, so you can mark the wires. Take pictures & notes as you disassemble stuff.
Go slowly and carefully. The fastest way to get where your going is lots of little steps, all in the right direction. (resist the urge to "hope you get lucky" and let some more magic smoke out of parts you might need...) Modules are easy to replace, but a fried wiring harness is a real PITA....
On the electrical, stuff, start by isolating things. Remove all the fuses & fusible links. Then energize and test each sub circuit one at a time. Invest in a current limited power supply that has both voltage & current meters built in. Then you can energize sub-circuits without damaging the wiring if there is a short.
Also get a label maker, or some labeled tape, so you can mark the wires. Take pictures & notes as you disassemble stuff.
Go slowly and carefully. The fastest way to get where your going is lots of little steps, all in the right direction. (resist the urge to "hope you get lucky" and let some more magic smoke out of parts you might need...) Modules are easy to replace, but a fried wiring harness is a real PITA....
This post is for you sweetheart.
UPDATE
Is time to get to the brain of the car which Tesla thoughtfully decided to put at the lowest point of the vehicle.
This is located under the passenger side foot well carpet. Ok. Metal looks a little corroded but no biggie, The circuit boards should be coated...
EASY DOES IT...
boxes look a little wet but again boards should be coated... smaller box is the sunroof control unit
EASY DOES ITTTTTT....
getting those clips and connectors out was tough, theres about 10 that go to this unit, along with optical feed
CAREFUL
CAREFULLLLLLLL
green1
Active Member
I really think this can not be emphasized enough.
I'm seeing a lot of me in the OP, and he's making the same mistakes that I would make. There's a huge temptation to power things up and "see what happens" (which the OP has done at least a couple times so far) and I strongly suspect this is causing more damage. Much better off to disconnect everything, and go through each system cleaning/clearing it before connecting it back to any form of power.
I strongly recommend not connecting anything to power that hasn't been thoroughly inspected/cleaned. Take it slow and add one bit at a time back in after you know it's ok.
Sogorman
Member
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Pfft. They ARE coated....... in something. Probably not what you wanted them coated in. lol.
Actually this is pretty interesting, since every module I've dismantled to date has had a conformal coating. Wonder if that changed at some point.
Actually this is pretty interesting, since every module I've dismantled to date has had a conformal coating. Wonder if that changed at some point.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
green1
Active Member
Well... They are now... just not in what you want them to be coated in...
Can we agree now not to apply power to any more systems without investigating their condition first?
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this car is an early car (reference the DC-DC converter in the wheel well) so it's possible that Tesla has changed things since to try to mitigate water ingress and/or humidity concerns.
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