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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

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By the way, now is a fine time to mention that you can always slap the door closed by hand, and it'll detect it's being closed, and will close. It's not unlike the CD/DVD trays of yesteryear... they're perfectly happy being pushed-in to close.
Wait, you're not supposed to close CD/DVD trays by pushing them in? I've always given them a light push and they always take the hint.

Knock on wood, my charge port door has been closing normally after the upgrade.
 
I can't get it to close by pressing it down either. It just has to be batted down, past each of the click stops to not be up.

I did just try to drive away with it up and it closed. Perhaps I am just expecting the door to close right after unplugging like it's done for 4 years and the new ECU has it's own opinions about when it should be closed.

@abraha2d, do you have a Gen3 car running a Gen4 ECU?
 
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Another thank you and shout out to @FalconFour.

I picked up my Gen 4 ECU from my Tesla service center on Friday and installed it into my 2018 LR RWD Model 3 today after validating my harness adapter from eBay. My car is now CCS enabled.

For those who have done some amount of car interior work in the past, the remove/re-install process is probably a 1 or 2 out of 10 on the difficulty scale, and it will take around 10-15 minutes (the first time you try) to get to the ECU unit, a few minutes to unplug/unmount the old unit and put in the new unit, and then 10-15 minutes to reassemble after requesting a software reinstall from the Tesla servers.

I also quickly verified that I don't seem to be experiencing any charge door closing issues at the moment.

Cheers.
 
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Wait, you're not supposed to close CD/DVD trays by pushing them in? I've always given them a light push and they always take the hint.

Knock on wood, my charge port door has been closing normally after the upgrade.
Other way around. Double negative confusion, I guess:
Not unlike CD/DVDs, you can also push the door shut. :)

However, Randy seems to be experiencing something ... fairly unusual. 😶
Mine (June 2018 LR/RWD):
  • closes a few seconds after you remove the plug, every time I think to be mindful of it
  • closes if I nudge the top a bit
  • sometimes encounters a bug where, I'm not 100% sure what triggers it, but it doesn't close... but if you get out and "remind it that its fly is open", it closes with the reminder nudge
  • otherwise acts 100% normally without a passing thought that anything is wrong
so uhhhh
 
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First time taking my Model 3 outside of a 200 mile radius from my house, thanks to the CCS retrofit. EA 350kW locations have been pretty hit-or-miss. 2 out of 3 locations were super slow (one maxed out at 35kW, the other one maxed out at 7kW! The mobile charger is faster than that!).

The EA 350kW location (station #3) in Saraland, AL was pretty good though. Almost hit 190kW. Here's the curve:
Image7302993420206887178.jpg

Looks like there was some sort of voltage fluctuation to the station, I guess?

Their 150kW stations seemed to be pretty reliable, too.
 
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Has anyone gotten a parking brake degradation warning after a full reinstall? I did my upgrade and also changed the air filter. But like an idiot I turned the blower on too soon with the filter cover off and it spewed cleaner all over the passenger side under the dash. Ready hoping I didn't mess anything up. It looks like it went way after putting it in drive.

Just wanting to see if that may be related to either thing. 😂
 
So looks like the parking brake warning is gone so I think that may have even been from the reinstall. Also, ended up chasing my tail for a bit debugging the USB ports that started freaking out. Looks like my SSD for TeslaCam crapped out and was the culprit. I swapped the SSD for a raspberry pi zero w with TeslaUSB on it. So far so good and I have CCS support 😁
 
I've got a fairly long road trip coming up end of June (about 5500 miles or so), after doing the 'bundle of wires' and ecu swap, firmware update etc...

1.) If something is off (say a wire breaks its solder or crimp or something silly), will only the ccs portion be affected, or will supercharging and slow charging be affected as well?

(caveat: the ECU is not fried, just the bundle of wires)

2.) after successfully navigating the ccs upgrade, should I travel with the old board? Or if the ecu conks out on the road, are you dead in the water (til you can be towed to SC)
 
I've got a fairly long road trip coming up end of June (about 5500 miles or so), after doing the 'bundle of wires' and ecu swap, firmware update etc...

1.) If something is off (say a wire breaks its solder or crimp or something silly), will only the ccs portion be affected, or will supercharging and slow charging be affected as well?

(caveat: the ECU is not fried, just the bundle of wires)

2.) after successfully navigating the ccs upgrade, should I travel with the old board? Or if the ecu conks out on the road, are you dead in the water (til you can be towed to SC)
1) Depends on what broke. Thermistors? No DC charging. Lock latch? No charging. Prox resistor? Slow charging/errors. Pilot/prox wires? No charging. The ECU is the controller for the charge port - the new one just has extra features (CCS). So, a malfunction with it is a malfunction overall with charging. The Bundle just makes the new controller work on the old port. CCS support is effectively a side-effect.

2) It's definitely a fail-safe, but swapping back to your old ECU requires a reflash (and going back to the old is worse than going to the new one - it'll disable the 12v support power when you plug it in, until you get that reflash going). If it conks out, you can swap it back in in-situ, and Tesla Roadside could, in theory, push you the necessary reflash request to get back running again. Worst case ("desert island"), if Tesla refuses to push the simple button to get you a reflash, or you can't reach them, or your phone is out of range, etc., you can always factory reset the car & get to Service Mode that way. Just, whatever you do, don't swap the ECU (back to the old one) and leave the car in the "faulted/incompatible software versions" state for more than a few minutes. It'll kill your 12v battery. Run the reflash immediately after swapping.
 
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So I *am* able to close the charge port by tapping on it lightly after prompting it to close.

I can prompt it to close, but it won't, either by tapping its button on the Nav Screen or in the App. It changes the lightning bolt icon from grey to white when it opens and if I tap again the charge port on the car *clicks* and the icon turns back to grey. After the port clicks I can lightly tap on it and it will actually close. I can also tap harder on it when it hasn't been prompted to close, get it past the first or second detent and it will close the rest of the way.

I have only one time gotten it to close any other way. I just rapidly clicked on the button on the Nav Screen and it closed after some number of clicks, but I haven't reproduced that. Removing the charger plug doesn't seem to prompt it to close so I still have to hit it past the detents to get it to close.

Any thoughts on next troubleshooting steps?

Anyone got another 00-B I could swap long enough to test in the Bay Area?
 
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Anyone got another 00-B I could swap long enough to test in the Bay Area?
I'd love to work with you on figuring this out... after all I'm in San Jose, Bay Area as well :) But right now, lot of crazy going on for me. Don't want you to have to suffer with a wonky charge port, so maybe I can promise some evening to meet up and figure out your port together?

Sounds an awful lot like you're running into that issue I had only seen very rarely... except for you it's every-dang-time. Extraordinarily weird...
 
A Ridiculously Easy Upgrade. "A child could do it!" - L. McCoy

Ordered the ECU via the Tesla app Service menu 05/11/22. 05/15/22, Tesla messages me "please come to the Decatur (Ga.) SC anytime to pick up your part". Couldn't buy it by going to the SC; had to use the app first. $140 + tax.

Many thanks to @BobbyC, who made the wiring harness and helped me do the ECU swap! We went to the Decatur SC to access Service Mode, then drove to downtown Decatur, parked in a municipal lot (where there are 2 free L2s) and did the upgrade. Problem: to complete the upgrade, the car needs WiFi to download the software update. Solution: my iPhone's hotspot.

We walked 4 blocks to have a beer at the Brickstore Pub while the car installed the update. Problem: my iPhone had to stay in the car in order for the download to take place. Solution: turnoff bluetooth on the iPhone, lock the iPhone in the car using my Tesla keycard, go have a Kölsch and an enlightening conversation with @BobbyC.

The entire process, from start to finish, probably would have taken 30 min, including the time for the software update download/install. But, hey, there was beer.

Post upgrade, we drove to a nearby EA installation. 182 kW peak on a 350 kW dispenser, and, typical of EA installations, the first dispenser stopped charging after ~ 4 min and we noticed that the cable/connector was quite hot, but the CCS adapter was not. We switched to the other dispenser and another 5 min charging session went off without a hitch, again maxing out at 180ish kW, but settling down to 130ish for most of the 5 min session.

We used @BobbyC's CCS adapter, as mine is enroute from Korea. Total game changer in my book, because I tow a Burro camper and go places where there are no Superchargers...not to mention busy Superchargers...and even the lowly 24kW CCS chargers at Chevy/Harley dealerships are better than L2.
 

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Ha ha ha. "Worked so far but we're not out yet"

Love the truck photo, I have definitely seen this before, probably not going to be too long before there is never an empty charger station and truckers learn it's not a good place to park.
That photo was taken early AM on a road trip; the driver was just walking back to his truck carrying his brekkies from a fast food place and we had a great conversation about EVs. He was apologetic and ignorant about blocking the SCs.
 
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