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Roadster 3.0

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Thanks, It is REALLY charging slowly. The car is reading 207V/16A. I'm at 135miles this morning after 6 more hours. The chargeport is flashing yellow...I seemed to remember it flashes green or blue, am I mistaken?
You're mistaken. Yellow is actively charging. Blue is when it's preparing to charge. Green when it's done.

208V is one leg of a three-phase supply. Bummer. But usually that would be rated for more than 16A... have you tried increasing the charge current on the screen? What does the charger say it is rated at?
 
You're mistaken. Yellow is actively charging. Blue is when it's preparing to charge. Green when it's done.

208V is one leg of a three-phase supply. Bummer. But usually that would be rated for more than 16A... have you tried increasing the charge current on the screen? What does the charger say it is rated at?
I have not tried increasing it. I thought I had 30A. But it's ok, I read that it's better to charge "low and slow," true or false? Is is better if you have the time to charge at 110V?
 
I have not tried increasing it. I thought I had 30A. But it's ok, I read that it's better to charge "low and slow," true or false? Is is better if you have the time to charge at 110V?
The maximum current is told to the car by the EVSE, which might be lower than what the circuit can provide. I don't know what your particular model can do. A 30 amp circuit (breaker value) can supply 24 amps continuously, which is in the sweet spot for charging (24 to 32 amps, 240 volts), I think. Lower than that and you waste power due to the fixed overhead; higher and you lose more with I**2R heating.

120v charging is not the best, since it has the highest overhead percentage, takes the longest, and doesn't provide enough power to run the HVAC if the battery is hot. But, it's pretty much everywhere, so can provide some power if nothing else is available.
 
Thanks, It is REALLY charging slowly. The car is reading 207V/16A. I'm at 135miles this morning after 6 more hours. The chargeport is flashing yellow...I seemed to remember it flashes green or blue, am I mistaken?

Was that the only option for a charger in the area or were you going to be near that area most of the day anyway?
 
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Hi Babydoc,

I recently charged at a 208 volt charger...
I was surprised that it did take longer.
It is 86% of the voltage... so it takes 16% longer in time.

The charge ring sequence I have seen is Blue to start out when it figures out if heating is necessary...
When the battery is heated or heat is not needed the charging starts and the ring turns Yellow flashing slowly or faster depending
upon the charge rate...
When the charge is finished it turns green - I am not sure how long...

Shawn
 
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I had 2 Hybrid Porsches so I have chargers pre-wired. Going to have one re-done for the Roadster rapid charger.

What I meant was, were there Tesla HPWCs or 30A J1772 chargers in the area that you could have used instead of a 16A charger at the Porsche dealership? Taking all day to charge is fine if you'll already be in the area all day but I wasn't sure of your situation.
 
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Flashing yellow is normal while charging. Faster rate while charging at full speed, slower flash when tapering near the end. Solid green when finished.
I do NOT believe that is correct. I usually charge at 40/240 and the rate at which the yellow ring flashes slows down as the battery "fills" - this is noticeable long before that charging rate tapers.
 
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2 years and 7 months ago, my Roadster was not charging due to the "BSM isolation fault" errors.
The battery was still good for 65% of charge but over the next months, especially when Tesla was working on the car, the charge level went down fast, to the point where it reached 0%. It took Tesla 7 months to realize they had "special tooling" that could charge the battery when separated from the car. When that special tooling finally arrived from Tilburg (only 200km away), it was already too late and battery was declared dead.

What followed was a long discussion with lawyers, and this summer they finally made me an offer for a new motor, new PEM and a "new" R80 battery. A month ago they even stated that "parts are on their way from US". But now, just before signing the agreement, they back off and want me to take a 2.0 battery for the same price! I think someone over there is missing a calculator on their desk...

Basically, they just can't make any promises towards delivery time, they are clueless. I just hope they can make me a new deal today or tomorrow, otherwise we see each other in court on Monday..
 
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Seems like the first time I've heard of a Roadster motor having to be replaced. The exception that proves the rule . . .
--

The SeC came to the conclusion that the motor was probably the reason why the car failed to charge.
Although mine is a 2.5 and the motor has nothing to do with charging, I can't do much but following their "expertise".
At the end it's the cheapest part by far of the three I ordered (battery, pem, motor).
 
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2 years and 7 months ago, my Roadster was not charging due to the "BSM isolation fault" errors.
The battery was still good for 65% of charge but over the next months, especially when Tesla was working on the car, the charge level went down fast, to the point where it reached 0%. It took Tesla 7 months to realize they had "special tooling" that could charge the battery when separated from the car. When that special tooling finally arrived from Tilburg (only 200km away), it was already too late and battery was declared dead.............

OK a bit off-topic, but on a supercharger tour of N Europe ... (UK to Sweden and back, as you do with free, easy and fast supercharging :cool: )...
I recognised the Morph number plate on a model S .
I guessed the owner, as @m0rph on here, who was in the restaurant next door .. amazing odds: 2 roadster owners meeting by chance, somewhere in N. Europe :D

Sorry to hear the familiar tail (above) .. basically that Tesla have so few Roadster experienced tech's that often repairs revert to whole system plug/play/guess.

Discussing this at a recent UK meetup (with Roadsters this time) .. as below:

We discussed 'keeping roadsters on the road' .. either
a) 'on-grid' (with Tesla .. needed where some parts are still under warrantee)
or
b) 'off-grid' (independent of Tesla .. ie out of warrantee, and where servicing not by Tesla).
Current situation is complicated by Tesla policy on non-sharing information, or even supplying parts and worryingly, refusing to work on cars with non-tesla mods / work

In UK we have
For a) 'on-grid' Sam at Tesla Gatwick
For b) 'off-grid' Neil Wise ex Tesla (up to 2012, Roadster specialist) now independant

From here these forums there are also independent techs in USA, Switzerland, Germany.
Perhaps we need to collectively compile a list of on and off grid Roadster Expertise ???

But for now, here are the pix ....

IMG-20180905-WA0003.jpg
M0rph.jpg