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Lol. That car won't be parted out. It will be fixed and sold.
It's much easier to unbolt the front clip from that car and bolt it on to one that was hit in the front than weld in all the parts that need to be welded in. On top of that, there are two good doors, a good drivers seat and front airbags, a good hatch, possibly a good rear bumper, and a good battery pack that is worth 10 to 15 grand by it self. No, that car will be used to fix several other cars and then anything of value left over will be sold.
 
It's much easier to unbolt the front clip from that car and bolt it on to one that was hit in the front than weld in all the parts that need to be welded in. On top of that, there are two good doors, a good drivers seat and front airbags, a good hatch, possibly a good rear bumper, and a good battery pack that is worth 10 to 15 grand by it self. No, that car will be used to fix several other cars and then anything of value left over will be sold.

You don't know what you're talking about. They will fix that car. It sold for 38K. They'd have to sell each part twice to make that much money off of that car.
 
You don't know what you're talking about. They will fix that car. It sold for 38K. They'd have to sell each part twice to make that much money off of that car.

I could probably get you close to that asking price with every part I can think of pictured. You'll barely break even, but chalk that up to maybe an inexperienced buyer. I think it could go both ways, who knows... maybe we'll see a new forum member soon.
 
I could probably get you close to that asking price with every part I can think of pictured. You'll barely break even, but chalk that up to maybe an inexperienced buyer. I think it could go both ways, who knows... maybe we'll see a new forum member soon.
The damage isn't even that bad. It's also a P90D. I paid slightly less than that for a 2015 P85D with front end damage.
 

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Yes be careful on copart look for a pure sale witch means no reserve and first time sale. It took me 2 months watching and checking vins against previous auctions. Nothing worse than some one relisting a car after they jumped on the hood to get it shut and zip tie the bumper on and ask thousands over the original auction purchase price. If it's being sold from a insurance company mostly its a first time sale.
 
Hey I'm new here and have a couple questions. I just picked up a model S salvage project.

I'm a hobbiest, not a professional, but I'm not a complete noob (I took auto body classes at a technical schools during summer while I was going to high school. I've rebuilt two salvage titles and restored two other cars).

My question is for those that have had their cars recertified by Tesla, what will they approve? Do they have to do the work and supply the parts?

The car was involved in a side on collision. I'm planning on purchasing the necessary SRS components (Airbags/Pretensioner/Seatbelt/SRS module/Piro Fuse etc), side frame (Anybody have repair docs on this. I know that they need to be steel riveted and bonded with crash-safe adhesive), fender and doors from eBay or salvage yard and installing them myself and then have a shop I've used in the past to do the glass and paint work.

After that do I just schedule an appointment with a Tesla Certified Body shop and pay the $1,500?

BTW for those of you that are curious, I got the car for $23,200 plus Copart fees and vehicle shipping. I figure at this price I can part it out, if needs be. It was a StateFarm auction. StateFarm's damage estimate was $35K. I still have a first day Model 3 reservation too, so like I said if it doesn't work out, not a biggie. I still have a Tesla in my future... :)

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My question is for those that have had their cars recertified by Tesla, what will they approve? Do they have to do the work and supply the parts?

I only know what I have read, but no they don't have to do the work. What they do do is tear the car apart, inspect the repair work to make sure it meets Tesla standards and put it on their frame rack to take measurements to make sure everything is within factory specs while taking tons of pictures to send to Tesla for final approval.
 
The car was involved in a side on collision. I'm planning on purchasing the necessary SRS components (Airbags/Pretensioner/Seatbelt/SRS module/Piro Fuse etc), side frame (Anybody have repair docs on this. I know that they need to be steel riveted and bonded with crash-safe adhesive), fender and doors from eBay or salvage yard and installing them myself and then have a shop I've used in the past to do the glass and paint work.

After that do I just schedule an appointment with a Tesla Certified Body shop and pay the $1,500?

BTW for those of you that are curious, I got the car for $23,200 plus Copart fees and vehicle shipping. I figure at this price I can part it out, if needs be. It was a StateFarm auction. StateFarm's damage estimate was $35K. I still have a first day Model 3 reservation too, so like I said if it doesn't work out, not a biggie. I still have a Tesla in my future... :)

Good luck on getting all the safety components you listed, they are mostly restricted. I can't speak to the re-purposability of other make/model parts (ive heard a MBZ pyrofuse will work in a Tesla).

Additionally it looks like your B pillar is bent/split and your glass roof caved with it. I'm not so sure about the repair-ability of this one...

:p welcome to the forum
 
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Good luck on getting all the safety components you listed, they are mostly restricted. I can't speak to the re-purposability of other make/model parts (ive heard a MBZ pyrofuse will work in a Tesla).

Additionally it looks like your B pillar is bent/split and your glass roof caved with it. I'm not so sure about the repair-ability of this one...

:p welcome to the forum
You can get a pyro fuse and every airbag besides the seats on eBay.
 
confirm that the B pillar might be a major issue to fix ....
good luck and keep us posted with the progresss

Yes, I’m aware of the B pillar. I’ve found a full side frame. I will drop it off at a Tesla body shop to get an estimate and see what they say. I want see an itemized repair quote and ask some questions. If the bill is under $20k, I’ll probably just have them do it, but I doubt it will be. Like I said, State Farm had repairs estimated at $35k, which probably came from a Tesla certified shop. DIY I figure I’ll be around $15k to repair.