Salvage Car Owners Support Group.

[Evoforce]

@brur Once you say salvage you will get nothing from them. My advice to you is do not disclose this whatsoever.

I don't know your salvage story but if you can contact the previous owner (before crash) maybe they have a key or willing to give you name and password to help. If you bought it from auction, that is one of the items along with the charge cord that is quite often stolen. The auction house will tell you that they collect the items to keep them from being stolen but those items never are given to the new owner without being asked and when being asked many times cannot be be found. Press the auction house hard and raise a big fuss.

Sometimes it takes a long time to get into Tesla's system that a car has been totaled. I believe Tesla picks up on a lot of them being totaled through when someone establishes a new account after rebuild.

How much does it cost for a recert inspection these days?

 

[MP3Mike]

How much does it cost for a recert inspection these days?

There is no such thing as a recert inspection anymore. They will work on any car regardless of status, but if the HV system is involved you have to pay for, and pass, a HV inspection before they will do the work. (Which last I heard costs about $500.)

Privacy & Legal | Tesla

They will permanently disable Supercharging. (I think CHAdeMO gets disabled as well.)

 

[Evoforce]

There is no such thing as a recert inspection anymore. They will work on any car regardless of status, but if the HV system is involved you have to pay for, and pass, a HV inspection before they will do the work. (Which last I heard costs about $500.)

Privacy & Legal | Tesla

They will permanently disable Supercharging. (I think CHAdeMO gets disabled as well.)

I heard that you can get chademo and paid Supercharging back with HV inspection. I am not certain what the facts are...

 

[Margaritaboy]

well no, I figured I'd expose myself as an idiot for losing both key cards and my phone so I didn't try to hide. Kind of silly, seeing that ship has been out to sea for a long time. But actually, to configure the key they said they wanted to connect to tesla, where they would see everything.

Hi. I had a salvage car and just email Tesla through their website about transferring a vehicle to my Tesla account. A bill of sale was sufficient.

I then rebuilt with parts I ordered from Tesla.

And my car supercharges....at least for now.

I would try to email them and just get the car transferred to your Tesla account. Then use your phone as a key.

 

[Evoforce]

Hi. I had a salvage car and just email Tesla through their website about transferring a vehicle to my Tesla account. A bill of sale was sufficient.

I then rebuilt with parts I ordered from Tesla.

And my car supercharges....at least for now.

I would try to email them and just get the car transferred to your Tesla account. Then use your phone as a key.

If that is so...then it has changed. They had to have my drivers license and a copy of the title when I started an account. The copy of the title is what tips them off...

 

[M0rpH3x]

By the way, going back to Model 3 encryption (which might be interesting for salvage model 3 owners). As far as I understood (correct me if I'm wrong, please), the eMMC is NOT encrypted. The problem is, the filesystem is checked against tampering using dm-verity, i.e., it computes a hash for each block of the filesystem and sees if it matches with some predefined values. So if you unsolder the eMMC, modify the shadow file and solder it again, it won't boot.

I don't exactly know how it works in detail. Does dm-verify apply to all partitions? Does the MCU2 have the same partition structure as the MCU1? If dm-verify checks a persistent partition with user data, how does dm-verify handle changes in files, does it rehash the block every time there is a change? Which algorithm does dm-verify uses for hashing? Early versions were using SHA1, which is not so difficult to work around (a collision is easy).

Any thoughts?

 

[brur]

The car hauler mentioned that when he first entered the car the screen was working. It worked for a while until the driver repeatedly tried to get the car into drive. So now the car sits quietly in my garage. I tried providing 12 volts to the leads of the now missing bumper. Nothing doing. Somewhat fortunately, the driver's window is down so I can get in. Back doors, of course, remain unopenable with the torn front bumper crammed in the rear seat.
It is an odd wreck right front fender, some of the bumper, wishbone, all broken. Tires, wheels all good.
But every conceivable airbag had exploded. Rear bumper off but in fairly good shape, taillights gone. Hood, left fender, doors, trunk lid all good.
I've emailed tesla in an effort to have the car put on my account. But worse case, is there any way to open the charge port to add some juice? The driver claims there was about half a battery showing on the screen so it might last until I rig my next home with battery backup. (a year?) Glove box manually openable?
Someday I'll have dual motors and associated for sale.
sorry to have dropped this bomb in the middle of ongoing discussions but I can't find another heading.

 

[M0rpH3x]

The car hauler mentioned that when he first entered the car the screen was working. It worked for a while until the driver repeatedly tried to get the car into drive. So now the car sits quietly in my garage. I tried providing 12 volts to the leads of the now missing bumper. Nothing doing. Somewhat fortunately, the driver's window is down so I can get in. Back doors, of course, remain unopenable with the torn front bumper crammed in the rear seat.
It is an odd wreck right front fender, some of the bumper, wishbone, all broken. Tires, wheels all good.
But every conceivable airbag had exploded. Rear bumper off but in fairly good shape, taillights gone. Hood, left fender, doors, trunk lid all good.
I've emailed tesla in an effort to have the car put on my account. But worse case, is there any way to open the charge port to add some juice? The driver claims there was about half a battery showing on the screen so it might last until I rig my next home with battery backup. (a year?) Glove box manually openable?
Someday I'll have dual motors and associated for sale.
sorry to have dropped this bomb in the middle of ongoing discussions but I can't find another heading.

My two cents. If the airbags deployed, the pyrofuse fired, so the hv battery is not charging the 12v battery anymore. That would explain why it worked for a while. Check the pyrofuse first.

 

[brur]

I did jumper the 12 volt battery to no effect. The driver had jumpers on the car too. Which makes me wonder if there is an anti-tamper fuse somewhere in the lv circuit.

 

[M0rpH3x]

I did jumper the 12 volt battery to no effect. The driver had jumpers on the car too. Which makes me wonder if there is an anti-tamper fuse somewhere in the lv circuit.

Did you check the voltage? Maybe it died... You should be able to jump it.

 

[Margaritaboy]

Agree with M0rpH3X. Airbag deployed = pyrofuse blew, and the high voltage system will have been severed from the rest of the car. The car will not go into drive with a blown pyrofuse.

That shouldn’t affect the MCU booting up with fresh 12v power though. Usually takes 1-2 min after being out cold. How are you ‘Jumping’ the car? Do other systems work when 12v power is attached (ie door buttons or interior/exterior lights)?

 

[Margaritaboy]

If that is so...then it has changed. They had to have my drivers license and a copy of the title when I started an account. The copy of the title is what tips them off...

you are right, just double checked the email I got from them. They want DL and either title or registration.

 

[mrfixit]

So they could not offer you a key at the service center? Did you see the process the tech went through? I wonder because the receptionist at the service center relayed that I could pick up a key and program it myself. I tend to believe there was a failure to communicate in the call.

tesla cant program the key without the car it toke him 2.5 hours he told me he almost gave up and i was there the whole time i even had keys i bought from e bay for spares and he didnt want to program them cause he may have to start for scratch again.without tesla software called toolbox you cant program,trouble codes etc, i own a auto repair shop and i cant get the software

 

[rooter]

Nobody's volunteered to host the articles, so FWIW I will as I can. Anyway, nobody will do security like I do.

Bought the domain Unofficial Tesla Tech and set up a secure web server. Took me forever to get some things working, but have HKIP, DNSSEC, TLSA, stapling, SNI, header protection, etc. Also It's HTTP/2 and has responsive CSS. The skin is Vector (like Wikipedia) and coloring is my custom CSS3, available on request. License for articles is Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike, so freely sharable with attribution.

If anyone here has the skillz I welcome you to try and pwn or MitM it. (as long as you show me how you did it)

This is a MediaWiki site so markup is the same as on Wikipedia. Anyone can add or modify content if they register, and I welcome all input. I'll be adding content as I can.

 

[Evoforce]

tesla cant program the key without the car it toke him 2.5 hours he told me he almost gave up and i was there the whole time i even had keys i bought from e bay for spares and he didnt want to program them cause he may have to start for scratch again.without tesla software called toolbox you cant program,trouble codes etc, i own a auto repair shop and i cant get the software

Yep, a lot of people make the mistake of buying keys off the internet that are worthless for using for Tesla. A lot of these keys are from auction houses who stole them to sell or auto dealers who say a traded in car only had 1 key and pocket the other to sell and from previous owners who try to make an extra buck off from a spare key. Sadly most people don't know that they don't reprogram.

 

[ArizonaP85]

a lot of people make the mistake of buying keys off the internet that are worthless for using for Tesla. Sadly most people don't know that they don't reprogram.

Used keys CAN be reprogrammed by the rooting folks here on TMC. I don’t recall if it was for a car which already had one key or had no key, but I saw it done.

 

[Evoforce]

The car hauler mentioned that when he first entered the car the screen was working. It worked for a while until the driver repeatedly tried to get the car into drive. So now the car sits quietly in my garage. I tried providing 12 volts to the leads of the now missing bumper. Nothing doing. Somewhat fortunately, the driver's window is down so I can get in. Back doors, of course, remain unopenable with the torn front bumper crammed in the rear seat.
It is an odd wreck right front fender, some of the bumper, wishbone, all broken. Tires, wheels all good.
But every conceivable airbag had exploded. Rear bumper off but in fairly good shape, taillights gone. Hood, left fender, doors, trunk lid all good.
I've emailed tesla in an effort to have the car put on my account. But worse case, is there any way to open the charge port to add some juice? The driver claims there was about half a battery showing on the screen so it might last until I rig my next home with battery backup. (a year?) Glove box manually openable?
Someday I'll have dual motors and associated for sale.
sorry to have dropped this bomb in the middle of ongoing discussions but I can't find another heading.

@brur The 12 volt battery will only last a very short time without the HV battery connected and charging the 12 volt. The system needs something close to 13.6 volts to operate the computers and power up the 12 volt side. As others have said your pyro fuse is blown. I am not familiar enough with the 3 but on Model S there is a cable release under the carpet wall inside the trunk behind the charge port. I would assume the 3 is the same?

 

[Evoforce]

Used keys CAN be reprogrammed by the rooting folks here on TMC. I don’t recall if it was for a car which already had one key or had no key, but I saw it done.

That is obviously news to me. Years ago, Tesla said to me that they would have to change out the receiver in the car to do it which would be cost prohibitive. I had no idea that it may be able to be done outside of Tesla now.

 

[brur]

@brur The 12 volt battery will only last a very short time without the HV battery connected and charging the 12 volt. The system needs something close to 13.6 volts to operate the computers and power up the 12 volt side. As others have said your pyro fuse is blown. I am not familiar enough with the 3 but on Model S there is a cable release under the carpet wall inside the trunk behind the charge port. I would assume the 3 is the same?

In the 3 the pyro fuse is inside the battery penthouse.
sort of the last thing, I'm going to get to. In the meantime, jumping from a good battery should get me enough time to press the unlock button(?) All I really need is to unlock the doors and trunk. If they hadn't stuffed the broken bumper in the back seat I could likely tunnel into the back and open the trunk from inside.

 

[M0rpH3x]

In the 3 the pyro fuse is inside the battery penthouse.
sort of the last thing, I'm going to get to. In the meantime, jumping from a good battery should get me enough time to press the unlock button(?) All I really need is to unlock the doors and trunk. If they hadn't stuffed the broken bumper in the back seat I could likely tunnel into the back and open the trunk from inside.

If I remember correctly, in the S there is a pyrofuse close to the 12v battery, and another one in the HV battery casing. Normally, only the 12v fires. Might that be the case of model 3?