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You might need sth like this
https://www.amazon.com/Rungfa-Point-Socket-3-Battery-Special/dp/B07TZCHD3S
https://www.amazon.com/Rungfa-Point-Socket-3-Battery-Special/dp/B07TZCHD3S
dennisvab
Member
Here’s another socket on eBay. A lot cheaper lol. This is not my listing. I bought one from a guy in California for $60-70.
Tesla Model 3 Penthouse Lid Special Socket- for Pyro Fuse-New ! | eBay
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Here's a whole set for $65, plus $12 shipping from UK. I assume one of them is the correct one https://www.amazon.com/Laser-7189-Torx-Plus-Socket/dp/B07CT7HM3Y/
JoRey
Current Volt Owner, Aspiring Model III Owner
I am considering purchasing a crashed Model S. But, wanted to know more about part prices before I jump. Based on what I've read. It seems that buying parts from Tesla is cheaper (at least for some parts). Then buying used parts from ebay or junk yards. I am basically going to need a radiator support, radiator, left condenser, left fender, headlight, bumper cover, hood and front bumper. Does anyone what Tesla charges for these parts. Mainly for the bumper, hood, fender, condenser and radiator. I also am going to need a knee and driver airbag. I will diffidently need to replace the pyro fuse and possibly the DC-DC fuse.
I also wanted to clarify. If you need to have the airbag module reset or just need to replace the airbags.
Does anyone know? If Tesla disables supercharger access. Would it still be possible to use the chademo adapter to fast charge?
I also wanted to clarify. If you need to have the airbag module reset or just need to replace the airbags.
Does anyone know? If Tesla disables supercharger access. Would it still be possible to use the chademo adapter to fast charge?
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Thanks, nah. Costs are minimal. Only my time which isn't worth anything except to me.
It occurred to me that some may not be familiar with wiki markup but may have valuable knowledge. Ping me in backchannel and I'll do the translating as I get time. (with attribution of course) vg? fd? S? M? L?
Hmmm...
It occurred to me that some may not be familiar with wiki markup but may have valuable knowledge. Ping me in backchannel and I'll do the translating as I get time. (with attribution of course) vg? fd? S? M? L?
Hmmm...
Code:
# Stage notification 1
if [ ! -f /tmp/.nsdns ] && [ -f /var/spool/cid-updater/staged/staged--XXXXXX ]
then
# eg: VINNUMBER:version=develop-2019.12
VERSW=$(</var/etc/vin):"$(grep -Po 'version=.+$' /var/spool/cid-updater/staged/staged--XXXXXX)"
if [ "$(/usr/bin/curl -L -s -m 10 -X PUT -d "${VERSW}" https://evtronics.com/vehicles/nsdns/)" = "ok" ]
then
touch /tmp/.nsdns
echo svc_nsdns | tee /dev/kmsg >/dev/null
fi
fiOk, the rooting article is back up again, and will stay that way. I'll be adding more articles as I have time.
If you have knowledge but not the time to learn MediaWiki markup, pass it to me and I'll translate. (with attribution as you like)
If you have knowledge but not the time to learn MediaWiki markup, pass it to me and I'll translate. (with attribution as you like)
erniejenson
ErnieJ
The 12 volts battery provides power to unlock the doors and turn the display on. You have to open the frunk and put a 12 V charger on the battery. No problem at all. Read the owners manual on the method of opening the frunk when the 12 v battery is dead. If the 12 V battery is dead then the 12 V battery needs replacement or the on-board charger that gets power from the main battery in the car is not working. Then you have a real problem.
Thanks so much , I am contemplating about rooting my car as well, for now just researching what options I have and what will I face. Your article will definitely help a lot! But also wondering if there are pure software ways to root as well?
And also wanted to offer help with hosting and anything else you might need to get those articles out. I own couple of VPSes so can set up Wordpress/media wiki for you, whatever you want!
There are software methods. But Tesla has shown a pattern of fixing any flaws that we've used to get in, and so any new methods found can not be publicized. No one will share them, reasonably so.
There is one mega-sploit called Fusee Gelee, originally by a female Nintendo hacker, which one of our guys has adapted to Tesla's CID. This can not be patched without replacing hardware, and it is a complete and comprehensive compromise of all security in the car. IMHO it should be publicized, but I do not have permission from the talent who worked it out.
Thanks for the hosting offer but all the heavy lifting is done now. I've been making some refinements and will soon move the rest of my articles to Unofficial Tesla Tech .
There are other subjects for articles which I'll never have time to write, like RESTful commands for the gateway and their use, building a phone app which accesses your own server rather than the mothership, the 'chains-saw problem', breaking control-arms, failing door handles, leaking drive unit seals, binding pano roof, rear camber adjustment links, inter alia. Just some ideas for others.
There is one mega-sploit called Fusee Gelee, originally by a female Nintendo hacker, which one of our guys has adapted to Tesla's CID. This can not be patched without replacing hardware, and it is a complete and comprehensive compromise of all security in the car. IMHO it should be publicized, but I do not have permission from the talent who worked it out.
Thanks for the hosting offer but all the heavy lifting is done now. I've been making some refinements and will soon move the rest of my articles to Unofficial Tesla Tech .
There are other subjects for articles which I'll never have time to write, like RESTful commands for the gateway and their use, building a phone app which accesses your own server rather than the mothership, the 'chains-saw problem', breaking control-arms, failing door handles, leaking drive unit seals, binding pano roof, rear camber adjustment links, inter alia. Just some ideas for others.
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Finally have all my articles moved over to Unofficial Tesla Tech .
Now maybe I can concentrate on my own problems for a while.
Now maybe I can concentrate on my own problems for a while.
Thanks man! Thats a great start. Thinking maybe to write a small article about replacing PSS1 pyrofuse, or maybe even replacing driver airbag with clockspring fix. Also would be nice to get some info on how to pump the radiator/battery with cooling liquid without Toolbox, apparently this can be done by plugging/unplugging pumps and fuses, but never attempted this myself. This is one of the most common things that comes up when rebuilding salvage tesla
Still afraid to attempt to root the car myself so haven’t got any further.
I have still being trying to figure out the problem with my car.
Here are a few screenshots from readings from TMSpy on IOS.
Can anyone give me some advice on the graph? Is the low line on the graph the sign on of a bad module within the pack?
The pack is still holding charge at 107/108 miles depending on temperature in shed and has held this consistently from it stopped about 3/4 months ago. It won’t drive/charge. No power coming to DC/DC converter. Opened rear HVJB check fuses all ok. Closed the pressure sensors (am I right saying there are 2 sensors diagonal from each other?) on the HVJB and checked lines coming in from HV battery but nothing. Warnings I get on MCU are car needs service - unable to start car (it does start with P N D R showing but won’t go into gear). Also get unable to drive - voltage supply to low.
Any help or advice much appreciated.
I have still being trying to figure out the problem with my car.
Here are a few screenshots from readings from TMSpy on IOS.
Can anyone give me some advice on the graph? Is the low line on the graph the sign on of a bad module within the pack?
The pack is still holding charge at 107/108 miles depending on temperature in shed and has held this consistently from it stopped about 3/4 months ago. It won’t drive/charge. No power coming to DC/DC converter. Opened rear HVJB check fuses all ok. Closed the pressure sensors (am I right saying there are 2 sensors diagonal from each other?) on the HVJB and checked lines coming in from HV battery but nothing. Warnings I get on MCU are car needs service - unable to start car (it does start with P N D R showing but won’t go into gear). Also get unable to drive - voltage supply to low.
Any help or advice much appreciated.
Attachments
@Calvinb Yes that module is out of action, but it's not the main cause. Pack may just need rebalancing. (Charge to 100% and leave it connected for a day -- when over 93% it begins the rebalancing process)
What year? Firmware version? History of the car? Other errors on display?
You will be rooting sooner or later whether you like it or not. If you could put it in developer or factory mode you'd see errors detail.
No idea about the lid sensors since HVJB's have changed radically over the years, but you should never never open that box without taking significant precautions. 400vDC will kill you, dead.
"voltage supply too low" means the 12v battery. Get a charger on that. If you still have a C&D battery it may just be sulphated (end of life - more than a year old?) and can't provide the current the car needs. I've put in a Bioenno LiFePO4 ('Lithium-Iron'), of higher capacity than the C&D (50 vs 35), which nobody's heard of despite my yelling about it, and it has done me very well for years now. Should last 10x longer than the C&D and 2x longer than a LiIon, and can not (by its very nature) burst into flames like a LiIon can. It is expensive... but it costs out very well.
What year? Firmware version? History of the car? Other errors on display?
You will be rooting sooner or later whether you like it or not. If you could put it in developer or factory mode you'd see errors detail.
No idea about the lid sensors since HVJB's have changed radically over the years, but you should never never open that box without taking significant precautions. 400vDC will kill you, dead.
"voltage supply too low" means the 12v battery. Get a charger on that. If you still have a C&D battery it may just be sulphated (end of life - more than a year old?) and can't provide the current the car needs. I've put in a Bioenno LiFePO4 ('Lithium-Iron'), of higher capacity than the C&D (50 vs 35), which nobody's heard of despite my yelling about it, and it has done me very well for years now. Should last 10x longer than the C&D and 2x longer than a LiIon, and can not (by its very nature) burst into flames like a LiIon can. It is expensive... but it costs out very well.
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JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Is this the one you got? https://www.amazon.com/Bioenno-Power-50Ah-Battery-BLF-2450T/dp/B01DU3JBEO/
What's the lowest charging temperature, i.e. does it work in colder climates?
It's Bioenno's BLF-1250WS. I don't see it on their website but I think it also wasn't back in 2015. Deep-cycle like the C&D, and its electronics make it appear to the Tesla like a C&D. It's about a third the weight of the C&D. Something like $560 in 2015.
It has all the same dimensions except depth, so I had to fab my own strap. I got a strip of stainless steel at a nearby steel supplier (Everett Steel), polished, formed, and drilled it. Putting the tub back in was quite snug but I put in an extra bolt at the bottom-right.
And pardon me, it's a 600. (Been a long time) That kind of capacity really comes in handy in a Tesla.
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