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Not sure if i was clear but the MCU screen is dead but when i remove the dash i can see from theside that all the LED's are working.
I have the standard faults of a dead MCU ... no odometer, very little charging (2amps) and no control of sun roof etc. Only once was i able to bring up the energy consumpiton graph on the dash display.
 
Hi everyone, greetings from Ireland. I purchased an S85D to rebuild and im nearly finished, the only hurdle i hae left is the dead MCU.
The 10 amp fuse for the charging and MCU was blown, i've reoplaced that but it still doesnt come to life, i swapped the sim for a local sim
and it has spoken to Tesla a few times and has advised me there's an update needed but no matter how many reboots i do i cannot get it
to wake up. I've replaced the 12v battery for a new one but still no luck. I've bought a replacment MCU from ebay so im now in a situation of how to deal with the software. Any help/tips/advice would be hugely appreciated.

If you have (or can make) a diagnostic Ethernet cable, you can connect to the MCU sand see what’s going on... you would also need one for the MCU swap.
 
Hey Appleguru thanks for your response, I'm thinking of ordering this... if you approve

Tesla Service Cable Ethernet FakraHSD for Toolbox 1.5ft Model S/X | eBay

That should work to connect to the diagnostic cable and/or cable going to the IC (but is the wrong gender to plug right into the MCU).

You could also use a solid core Ethernet cable in a pinch.

Do you know what firmware version was on the MCU? If it is old enough, you should be able to still grab the carkeys from the IC and/or gateway SD card. If the firmware is recent though, they won't be there, so unless you can talk Tesla into issuing you new keys, your new MCU won't likely properly connect to the mothership anymore (though this may be changing a bit with the new Hermes web sockets stuff...)

You should also grab your mcu_commands_key if you can get it, as you'll also need that for proper app access.
 
That should work to connect to the diagnostic cable and/or cable going to the IC (but is the wrong gender to plug right into the MCU).

You could also use a solid core Ethernet cable in a pinch.

Do you know what firmware version was on the MCU? If it is old enough, you should be able to still grab the carkeys from the IC and/or gateway SD card. If the firmware is recent though, they won't be there, so unless you can talk Tesla into issuing you new keys, your new MCU won't likely properly connect to the mothership anymore (though this may be changing a bit with the new Hermes web sockets stuff...)

You should also grab your mcu_commands_key if you can get it, as you'll also need that for proper app access.

Thanks for the info, don't laught but ... I dont have a key either !!! I bought a bcm and paired key from ebay. Thats in the car and allows me to do everything except put the car into drive. I also have the Tesla app but because of the MCU i cant connect ! I'm still chasing up the previous owner for the key but still no luck.

I would say the vehicle is definitely pre version 9 but thats all i know.
 
Thanks for the info, don't laught but ... I dont have a key either !!! I bought a bcm and paired key from ebay. Thats in the car and allows me to do everything except put the car into drive. I also have the Tesla app but because of the MCU i cant connect ! I'm still chasing up the previous owner for the key but still no luck.

I would say the vehicle is definitely pre version 9 but thats all i know.

And sorry if I wasn't clear, when I said "carkeys" I didn't actually mean the actual car keys, but instead the openvpn "carkeys" that Tesla uses to connect each car to the mothership (they are unique and tied to the car's VIN).

If you have the MCU out now, pop out the gateway SD card and copy the files off... see if you got lucky and they're there.
 
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And sorry if I wasn't clear, when I said "carkeys" I didn't actually mean the actual car keys, but instead the openvpn "carkeys" that Tesla uses to connect each car to the mothership (they are unique and tied to the car's VIN).

If you have the MCU out now, pop out the gateway SD card and copy the files off... see if you got lucky and they're there.

Storing the car at my family home so i wont have access to her for a month but if its okwith you i will touch base again when im stuck in the thick of it ? Thanks again for your time
 
I am working on a salvage 2017 S. After charging the 12 volt battery, the car wakes up when I open the door. The car will only display "Key Not In Car". The car was delivered with a new fob from Pektron in an unopened bag that I assume is a unprogrammed key fob. All of the air bags are intact. I replaced the pyro fuse. I placed the fob in the cup holder and against the windsheild, but the car will not start. The remote battery is good. The HV contactor closes as the car stays powered up if I disconnect the 12volt battery. The electronics and electrical systems are intact and undamaged. When I complained to the seller that the auction listing at IAA said "Has Keys", I was told that Tesla's involved in crashes have to have the key fobs reprogrammed at a SC. This sounds like bologna to me. Does anyone know if this is true?
 
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When I complained to the seller that the auction listing at IAA said "Has Keys", I was told that Tesla's involved in crashes have to have the key fobs reprogrammed at a SC. This sounds like bologna to me. Does anyone know if this is true?

No the keys aren't invalidated when the car is in a crash. However, most of the time the original owner doesn't turn the fobs in with the car, so it normally doesn't come with them. In this case it sounds like the seller supplied fobs, just not ones programmed for the car.

But how are you opening the door if the fob doesn't work? Have you checked that the fob has good batteries? Do the buttons on the fob pop the frunk and/or trunk? Tesla shouldn't charge too much to program the fobs for your car...

As far as air-bags I can almost guarantee that if the pyro-fuse was blown that at least one airbag went off as well. But maybe the previous owner replaced them and had the SRS module reprogrammed?
 
No the keys aren't invalidated when the car is in a crash. However, most of the time the original owner doesn't turn the fobs in with the car, so it normally doesn't come with them. In this case it sounds like the seller supplied fobs, just not ones programmed for the car.

But how are you opening the door if the fob doesn't work? Have you checked that the fob has good batteries? Do the buttons on the fob pop the frunk and/or trunk? Tesla shouldn't charge too much to program the fobs for your car...

As far as air-bags I can almost guarantee that if the pyro-fuse was blown that at least one airbag went off as well. But maybe the previous owner replaced them and had the SRS module reprogrammed?
Drivers side window was 1/2 way down when car was delivered. Fob batteries are good, doesn't work on frunk or hatch. My understanding was that if i go to Tesla with a salvage/rebuilt title to prove ownership, they will disable updates and supercharging on the car. Nope.. none of the air bags poped, only the 250 amp 12 volt battery fuse and the pyro fuse. Seller was listed as American Family Mutual. I don't want to power up again until my radiator comes Friday and I get cooling up. I can feel the coolant pumps running when I touch then (quite). Maybe then I can get owner information from GPS and request keys from them. Thanks
 
Drivers side window was 1/2 way down when car was delivered. Fob batteries are good, doesn't work on frunk or hatch. My understanding was that if i go to Tesla with a salvage/rebuilt title to prove ownership, they will disable updates and supercharging on the car. Nope.. none of the air bags poped, only the 250 amp 12 volt battery fuse and the pyro fuse. Seller was listed as American Family Mutual. I don't want to power up again until my radiator comes Friday and I get cooling up. I can feel the coolant pumps running when I touch then (quite). Maybe then I can get owner information from GPS and request keys from them. Thanks

Most likely Tesla will remote in eventually and turn off Supercharging and Updates. Many things trigger this process for them, but the consistent one seems to be one one of their cars is flagged with a salvage title.

Do you know the Software Version? You might be able to pay someone here to hack in for you and they can program keys with a copy of the Tesla Toolbox software and a proper cable.
 
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My understanding was that if i go to Tesla with a salvage/rebuilt title to prove ownership, they will disable updates and supercharging on the car.

That is certainly possible. But it is possible they will do that anyhow the next time they get updated DMV records and integrate them into their system. (Unless you disable the LTE, which also might disable the Supercharging if it doesn't have a way to authenticate and deal with billing.)

Maybe then I can get owner information from GPS and request keys from them. Thanks

Yep, that is likely a very good option to get the keys. (Though at least one prior owner demanded payment for them.) And of course you can go after the auction seller...
 
Most likely Tesla will remote in eventually and turn off Supercharging and Updates. Many things trigger this process for them, but the consistent one seems to be one one of their cars is flagged with a salvage title.

Do you know the Software Version? You might be able to pay someone here to hack in for you and they can program keys with a copy of the Tesla Toolbox software and a proper cable.
No I don't know the version, but I will post Friday/Saturday. Just gont the car last Monday. Most of the damage is forward of the frame rails. Trying to post pictures... here it goes...
IMG_3139.JPG
 
Hello guys

I am having a problem with a tesla model s ... so i bought a car from an auto auction , a salvaged car ... and the car arrived without a battery (the HV battery)

I bought a new battery and programed it on the car but i faced an issue where all the readings in the car are reversed for example when i hit the peddal the car starts generating power and when i hit the brakes the car starts consuming power. .. any one familliar with tesla batteries or repairs who might help me with this ?

Or if there is any technical guides for the parts inside the tesla that might contribute in this issue ?

Thank you in advance
 
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I rebuilt a Model 3, and started using it as a daily driver this week. Putting a 100 miles a weekday on it minimum. The only error I am getting is that a software upgrade is required. Should I be waiting for a software upgrade to arrive on its own (while connected to WiFi of course)? Or will one have to be pushed by the Service Center.
 
Hi everyone, greetings from Ireland. I purchased an S85D to rebuild and im nearly finished, the only hurdle i hae left is the dead MCU.
The 10 amp fuse for the charging and MCU was blown, i've reoplaced that but it still doesnt come to life, i swapped the sim for a local sim
and it has spoken to Tesla a few times and has advised me there's an update needed but no matter how many reboots i do i cannot get it
to wake up. I've replaced the 12v battery for a new one but still no luck. I've bought a replacment MCU from ebay so im now in a situation of how to deal with the software. Any help/tips/advice would be hugely appreciated.
You cannot simply replace MCU from another tesla with a different firmware and configuration. And you probably do not need to replace anything.
How does it advises you updates if you have not managed to wake it up?

Update: Sorry, missed latest discussion
 
I rebuilt a Model 3, and started using it as a daily driver this week. Putting a 100 miles a weekday on it minimum. The only error I am getting is that a software upgrade is required. Should I be waiting for a software upgrade to arrive on its own (while connected to WiFi of course)? Or will one have to be pushed by the Service Center.
If your Model 3 has a salvage title, sooner or later (probably sooner) Tesla will stop updating it, AFTER turning off your ability to DC fast charge (like Supercharging). They have no legal right to access your computer (MCU) and disable one of its essential functions, but they will anyway.
So you can disable updates and continue to DC fast charge or try to receive updates and lose an essential function of your car. Most folks here choose to keep an essential function of their car, but you must choose for yourself. Good luck!
 
Are there still any problems to root Model S with firmware 2019.8.3? Now I'm on 2018.50.6 but have received an update notification. I will get a new key FOB next week and local guys have to tether it. As I understand they need root for it.
As @appleguru told there are some difficulties with rooting:
Yes, the 2019 builds make getting and keeping access significantly more difficult (for a variety of reasons). Do NOT update to the 2019 builds if you want or need to get root access on your car.
and also @robby said:
Generally, yes. The specific answer for your vehicle depends on your persistence method, but the vast majority of rooted cars will not survive a 19.x upgrade.

Is it still valid or difficulties are solved?
If I just postpone the update for 1 or 2 weeks (ignore the notification) would it be a problem to receive updates in the future?