There’s lots of conjecture and rumours, but has anyone on here actually been contacted by Tesla, or their lawyers, after having supercharging enabled by a 3rd party on a salvage vehicle? Tesla say they make take legal action and seek compensation but has this ever happened?
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I would also be interested in knowing about this:
The source has reputation, but so far zero cases. And something like this would have made waves in this forum. So did this ever happened to anyone?
henderrj
Active Member
I think if I skipped Tesla, I wouldn't want to make a public proclamation about it. I rather doubt anyone will tell you on this forum. Although it does interest me as well, I paid the money to Tesla to get mine reapproved.
brainhouston
Active Member
yes
well 7 times so far...but i stay away from v3 SCs, i was told those could disable u.
not sure how true that is, one day i'll try v3, cause its harder to road trip with only v2s...
PS, don't see a problem sharing this info as long as nobody knows my VIN hehe
brainhouston
Active Member
I’ve got my HV Battery check and Supercharge check appointment tomorrow. Any suggestions on what to look out for, what to expect etc?
But nervous since it’s potentially £800 just for them to fail it and be no better off.
No visible damage to the underside of my car. Driven 22,000 miles since I got it back on the road.
But nervous since it’s potentially £800 just for them to fail it and be no better off.
No visible damage to the underside of my car. Driven 22,000 miles since I got it back on the road.
Passed.
£1,126 total for HV and Fast Charge check. Will have SC reenabled by the end of the week.
Nice, was this an SC01 Free Supercharging vehicle? Did you get that back too?Passed.
£1,126 total for HV and Fast Charge check. Will have SC reenabled by the end of the week.
It wasn’t. I had to specifically request for the Fast Charge safety check as well, in order for them to re-enable SC access.
HV battery check was £792
The rest must have been the Fast charge check and taxes.
I think what helped was I managed to talk to the technician before he started work on it, and he asked me a number of questions to get an idea of what the original damage was from the accident. I also mentioned to him that I’ve been driving the car 20,000 miles with no issues and even supercharged it for many months before it was disabled.
He mentioned that they don’t just check the HV Battery safety but other components too (AC unit), which made me a bit worried because it started to sound like I was paying £1000 for an MOT check
Hey everyone I'm the new guy here and I'm not very smart when it comes to Ev's. In fact I bought a 21' Tesla model 3 SR+ and has yet to move under its own power If that says anything. I have spent 2 months trying to work on this thing and just keep getting hurdle after hurdle. Here's the deal with it It will not let me use any high voltage from the battery, not to drive, not to charge and not for AC which is typical of the HVIL system knowing there's a problem. I have two main error codes in the BMS system which are BMS_a107 and BMS_a171. Basically in testing the two sides of my pack One test at 179 volts and the other side test at 178 volts and I believe the one error is because it has mismatched power between the packs. I was going to do a battery health test to drain everything and let the BMS essentially equalize out the parts however I need under 50% SOC for that to happen and I am at 51.5% go figure. Given that I can't charge it I thought maybe I can manually charge half of the battery to 179 so it would at least be equal but I don't know what kind of charger or variable power supply I would use to do that. Or, somehow drain the one side to match. The kicker is and for those who are going to say you should bring this to the SC, I already did and because the dummies that transported it used a forklift and put a small dent in the bottom of the battery that I never noticed, Tesla did notice and now they will not touch it until I replace a battery which I'm not going to do if possible. Long story short I'm currently upside down in this car and I'm almost at the point where I could have bought a new one at the same cost and I've had a very bad experience and I just want to get this thing to work for a first time EV to test out to see if I like it before ordering the stupid cybertruck 
that may never come out or maybe it will I don't know. Any and all help is appreciated thanks in advance
that may never come out or maybe it will I don't know. Any and all help is appreciated thanks in advanceHi Adam, I’m sorry you’re having a bad experience. It is important to do a lot of research before diving in. I was researching for two years before I bought my salvage Tesla, and I was extremely selective with my auctions.
Anyway, this is not what you want to hear. Here a couple of hints that might help you:
- You can drain the battery fast turning on heating max level, if this is what you want. Also, try sentry mode, if it works. Make sure the DC-DC converter is working, though. The AC system is HV, no problem there, but sentry is low voltage, and with no DC-DC support, you’ll kill your 12V battery. Test always with your hood open, so you can recharge the 12V if needed. To see if the DC-DC system is on, check the 12V battery voltage. It should be very high (~13.3V or even more), even under load.
Of course, if contactors don’t close, none of this will work.
- Have you consider getting a toolbox subscription to disgnose what’s going on?
Hope it helps.
Hello thanks for the response. I did but the $500 subscription to toolbox which was totally worthless with no support what so ever. In fact it was supposed to come with a battery tool and it wouldn't let me download it which was the reason I bought it. As far as drain, I have no functionality of the HV system so I can't utilize anything to drain it. The contactors do open and close but only on startup of battery plug in or isolation testing.
If you're willing to sign on outside help, Butler County Hybrid shouldn't be too far from you near Pittsburg PA (shipping companies quoted me $200, but I opted to tow it myself with a pickup and a U-Haul car trailer). They're rebuilding my LDU with a triple-lip seal instead of a single-lip, for approximately 5k instead of tesla's 8k, and they has access to toolbox.
