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I've got a 2024 MSLR and have installed a OBDLink MX+ using this cable: HRN-CT06S1 | Tesla Adapters | Geotab Adapters | GPS Fleet Tracking
However, after connecting it with Bluetooth to my Android phone and installing the SMT app, I'm getting no data.
Every 30 seconds the SMT app says something like "No data for 30 seconds, restarting".
The LEDs on the MX+ are either lit solid or blink in ways that I think are correct.
I also rebooted both my car's screen and my phone.

Any tips or advice how to get SMT working? Is that the wrong cable?
 
I've got a 2024 MSLR and have installed a OBDLink MX+ using this cable: HRN-CT06S1 | Tesla Adapters | Geotab Adapters | GPS Fleet Tracking
However, after connecting it with Bluetooth to my Android phone and installing the SMT app, I'm getting no data.
Every 30 seconds the SMT app says something like "No data for 30 seconds, restarting".
The LEDs on the MX+ are either lit solid or blink in ways that I think are correct.
I also rebooted both my car's screen and my phone.

Any tips or advice how to get SMT working? Is that the wrong cable?

Yes, that's the wrong cable. Any cable that works for 2015 won't for 2021+. I have my old cable which worked on my 2015 P85D which I'm about to use again on a co-workers 2012.

This is the one I use for my 2024 MSP:


I think there haver been 3 versions actually. 2012 to mid 2015. Mid 2015 to early 2021 (pre-refresh). And then finally refresh which they call 2021+ but didn't really come out until late 2021.
 
Yes, that's the wrong cable. Any cable that works for 2015 won't for 2021+. I have my old cable which worked on my 2015 P85D which I'm about to use again on a co-workers 2012.

This is the one I use for my 2024 MSP:


I think there haver been 3 versions actually. 2012 to mid 2015. Mid 2015 to early 2021 (pre-refresh). And then finally refresh which they call 2021+ but didn't really come out until late 2021.
I have the same cable as @sorka and ZERO reboots on the MX+ for six months now on my '22 refresh.

Don't like the SMT Beta. Instead I clone the performance tab and load that with the parameters I use.

Minor issue is I don't have accurate CAC numbers on either SMT version.
 
Definitely seeing weird numbers after the upgrade to 2024.20.1:
IMG_3768.png

Check out the Full Rated Range, good for 6+ trips around the planet!
 
I was trying to set up an energy balance for my last road trip ie (total energy in - Total energy out). I looked at SMT parameters sych as Charge Total, Discharge Total, Drive Total and Total Drive Regen. However, after several quick calculations it didn't seem as simple as I first thought (maybe even impossible without poetic licence). There appeared to be more energy out than put in (this was before 2024.20.1 :)) Can anybody suggest any web article(s) about these parameters that would help understanding? Amund told me there was lots of data but maybe I didn't use the right keywords for the search? Any help appreciated!
 
I was trying to set up an energy balance for my last road trip ie (total energy in - Total energy out). I looked at SMT parameters sych as Charge Total, Discharge Total, Drive Total and Total Drive Regen. However, after several quick calculations it didn't seem as simple as I first thought (maybe even impossible without poetic licence). There appeared to be more energy out than put in (this was before 2024.20.1 :)) Can anybody suggest any web article(s) about these parameters that would help understanding? Amund told me there was lots of data but maybe I didn't use the right keywords for the search? Any help appreciated!

I do not know what numbers you are thinking of, this is my Plaid in exactly 1 week it is one year from delivery.

The car has used 4614 kWh in ”Drive”.
There is a slight difference from the ”drive total” in the BMS, that is 4645kWh
IMG_9315.jpeg


AC charge + DC charge + Regen = 6312kWh, due to rounding it differs 1kWh.
So the sum of these is really 6313kWh.

IMG_9313.jpeg

IMG_9314.jpeg

The difference between charge total and discharge total is losses, like self discharge but also when higher lossesthen the normal rate from driving (the normal ~10% losses from charging - drive is not included, as ”charged total” is energy put into the battery, so the difference in total remaining so to speak).

I think it would be a good thing to be able to distinguish which numbers that are real Tesla BMS numbers and that not involve any calculations from Scan My Tesla.
Sometimes not understanding this difference can lead to misundwrstandings.

One example might be the degradation that earlier was among the numbers in SMT. I thought it was good as it refered to the Full Pack When New.
Another is charge cycles, that divide the total energy with the nominal full pack. A chabge in nominal full pack affects the number, it can go down when the NFP increases. That is not an issue when understanding the logic behind, but when not understanding it it can be confusing.
 
I do not know what numbers you are thinking of, this is my Plaid in exactly 1 week it is one year from delivery.

The car has used 4614 kWh in ”Drive”.
There is a slight difference from the ”drive total” in the BMS, that is 4645kWh
View attachment 1058427

AC charge + DC charge + Regen = 6312kWh, due to rounding it differs 1kWh.
So the sum of these is really 6313kWh.

View attachment 1058420
View attachment 1058421
The difference between charge total and discharge total is losses, like self discharge but also when higher lossesthen the normal rate from driving (the normal ~10% losses from charging - drive is not included, as ”charged total” is energy put into the battery, so the difference in total remaining so to speak).

I think it would be a good thing to be able to distinguish which numbers that are real Tesla BMS numbers and that not involve any calculations from Scan My Tesla.
Sometimes not understanding this difference can lead to misundwrstandings.

One example might be the degradation that earlier was among the numbers in SMT. I thought it was good as it refered to the Full Pack When New.
Another is charge cycles, that divide the total energy with the nominal full pack. A chabge in nominal full pack affects the number, it can go down when the NFP increases. That is not an issue when understanding the logic behind, but when not understanding it it can be confusing.
As always thanks for your detailed reply. I understand your comments. I reworked my table and it's a little more clear now (refer table attached in case of interest). Indeed for some SMT parameters it does not seem clear what information exactly is contained within them, or not (!) (or perhaps regrouped within them), for example "Charge Total" or "Discharge Total". I guess efficiency losses play a role here. Unless you can make an iterative calculation ie SUM (n+n1+n2+n3...) for all the different discharges and efficiency losses it's going to be difficult to optimze this. Anyhow, I've now got a rough idea of where my charging €s are going!

One final remark regards your comment on FPWN and battery capacity estimation. Using FPWN and current NFP certainly seems to work well for me. I can reality check it by looking at the total amount charged (ie added to) the battery when a "BMS calibration" is done charging from 0 to 100% display SoC. Darn it that term really isn't liked in some quarters around this forum :)
 

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  • Ireland Road Trip 2024 Energy Balance.png
    Ireland Road Trip 2024 Energy Balance.png
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There is in my opinion, no need to do a large charge/ discharge cycle to enable calibration to track pack health. Even after months of letting the car sit, my NFP is about the same, within +/-0.2 KwH. Been at 93.1kwh for over 4 months now.

I'm not sure what Tesla borked on the 20.1 update, but as noted earlier, range and perhaps consumption totals are off.

SMT trip consumption tracks the energy screen very well. Also useful to see pack temps, and AC usage. I have found ways be more economical when using AC and modulating my Regen.

Edit: my comments relate to Refresh MS and MX, post 2022.
 
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There is in my opinion, no need to do a large charge/ discharge cycle to enable calibration to track pack health. Even after months of letting the car sit, my NFP is about the same, within +/-0.2 KwH. Been at 93.1kwh for over 4 months now.
You are right at least for my M3. Reducing SoC to around 0 on screen will do the job quite nicely. The reason I did the 0-100% was to get a reality check on the indicated NFP = actual amount charged. My pack NFP varies around about +/- 0.5 kWh.