Scrolling wheel on steering wheel easily breaks. Is the part available separately?

[Nifty]

My volume wheel just broke as well, looked the same as what @Pedro.Tx posted a while back. I ended up using the end of the 1.5mm bit (measured 1.7 across the flats) from my mini-screwdriver set (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AL7600A). It pained me to take the bit, but for $14 it's a lot cheaper than buying the parts from Tesla.

Steps I took after disassembling the assembly with the wheel in it:
1. Drilled out the broken hex with a 3/32" bit. I went deeper than necessary to give excess epoxy a place to go.
View attachment 706637
2. Cut the end off the bit where it starts to taper down to the 1.5mm end
View attachment 706635
3. Coated the inside of the scroll wheel with epoxy and inserted the bit.
4. After the epoxy started to gel up (I used a 30 minute work life epoxy) I carefully aligned it to make sure it was perpendicular to the face of the wheel.
5. Cured overnight and reassembled.

View attachment 706636

Awesome post! I had this problem yesterday and was able to fix it in a couple hours by following this post. Luckily, I already had the H1.5 bit. And to think I was ready to wait 2 weeks and pay $350 to have Tesla fix it. Here's a photo of my thumb wheel with the H1.5 bit installed. Thanks!

 

[Nifty]

Thanks for all that. I guess I’ll have one shortly.

Do you think the original part was round with two flats or really hex shaped?

Photo of the piece that broke off. It's definitely hex.

 

[David.85D]

Photo of the piece that broke off. It's definitely hex.

Agree. Definitely hex

 

[dmwahl]

Awesome post! I had this problem yesterday and was able to fix it in a couple hours by following this post. Luckily, I already had the H1.5 bit. And to think I was ready to wait 2 weeks and pay $350 to have Tesla fix it. Here's a photo of my thumb wheel with the H1.5 bit installed. Thanks!

Very nice, glad it worked for you too.

 

[Jseb1504]

I can send you some. I’ll pm you.

The version without the wire seems to be holding up. At least, I haven’t heard back from anyone yet.

Hello David, my tesla have the same problem, can you have other pieces for repair mine ?
I’m in France but I can pay for it… thanks

 

[David.85D]

Hello David, my tesla have the same problem, can you have other pieces for repair mine ?
I’m in France but I can pay for it… thanks

Do you know anyone with a formlabs printer? Might be easier to print some locally. I can send the files.

 

[pjuk]

My LHS scroll wheel and buttons are becoming a little "iffy" and the rotary decoder seems to only pick up 20% of clicks. Has anyone tried replacing the decoder on the PCB? Seems like a very cheap and easy fix if the PCB is accessible.

As for the dial I'd be happy to print out new dials for anyone in the UK (FDM printer) so would need an STL file or similar - postage and beer/coffee money would suffice.

 

[pjuk]

My LHS scroll wheel and buttons are becoming a little "iffy" and the rotary decoder seems to only pick up 20% of clicks. Has anyone tried replacing the decoder on the PCB? Seems like a very cheap and easy fix if the PCB is accessible.

As for the dial I'd be happy to print out new dials for anyone in the UK (I've got a Bambu X1C with some PETG-Carbon Fibre filament so plenty strong!) so would need an STL file or similar - postage and/or beer/coffee money would suffice.

[edit above post] type of printer - just realised that the wheel is a little rubbery so a 3d printed part might feel a little different!
[edit] my scroll wheel just magically worked again perfectly after some SC juice..maybe Elon is listening

 

[David.85D]

My LHS scroll wheel and buttons are becoming a little "iffy" and the rotary decoder seems to only pick up 20% of clicks. Has anyone tried replacing the decoder on the PCB? Seems like a very cheap and easy fix if the PCB is accessible.

As for the dial I'd be happy to print out new dials for anyone in the UK (FDM printer) so would need an STL file or similar - postage and beer/coffee money would suffice.

The stl file is on thingaverse

 

[David.85D]

My LHS scroll wheel and buttons are becoming a little "iffy" and the rotary decoder seems to only pick up 20% of clicks. Has anyone tried replacing the decoder on the PCB? Seems like a very cheap and easy fix if the PCB is accessible.

As for the dial I'd be happy to print out new dials for anyone in the UK (FDM printer) so would need an STL file or similar - postage and beer/coffee money would suffice.

Circuit board is easily accessible once you get the assembly out of the car. Its definitely a commercial mouse encoder part.

 

[pjuk]

I'll check it out. Car is only just out of warranty so it'll be a DIY job along with condensation in the rear lights that has started to pool water

 

[rmoehle]

A huge thank you to @David.85D for the parts and guidance!
I was able to install his printed wheel and have full functionality.
A reminder to remove the broken piece when you reinstall - on my first attempt I had volume scroll but no push click. Also could have been an installation or tolerance issue, but second time around with the second wheel it's perfect.
Cheers

 

[Countermeasure]

Sheesh, $45 for a cut down hex key? In case the seller is watching I also needed a T15 or T20 bit to remove the button assembly, I forget which though. And it's not necessary to disconnect the airbag connector, I did the whole thing without disconnecting anything other than the connectors for the controls.

Yep, sell these kits all day for all years. T30 driver, proper sized metal axles along with the right glue and instructions and even a T20 for all pre-2016 Model S. Works every time and permanent.

 

[MrGonzonator]

Circuit board is easily accessible once you get the assembly out of the car. Its definitely a commercial mouse encoder part.

Hello David.85D, thanks for all your work here, about to try the fix myself. However, I wondered if it might be possible to re-use the broken wheel by drilling out the centre and replacing the "axle". Since I don't have a drill press to help align it perfectly, what would be really handy is an inverse 3D print to act as a guide for my drill bit. Since you already have a model, could you easily create this?

 

[David.85D]

Hello David.85D, thanks for all your work here, about to try the fix myself. However, I wondered if it might be possible to re-use the broken wheel by drilling out the centre and replacing the "axle". Since I don't have a drill press to help align it perfectly, what would be really handy is an inverse 3D print to act as a guide for my drill bit. Since you already have a model, could you easily create this?

Piece of cake. What size drill bit do you intend to use? Would you want a metal guide bushing or just be gentle? Do you have access to a 3D printer?