DarkMatter
Active Member
It doesn't have the wiring. Tesla won't modify the wiring on older cars to add it.So does this mean if we get a new pack for the older cars with the new mcu2, would it solve the high sleep current issue?
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It doesn't have the wiring. Tesla won't modify the wiring on older cars to add it.So does this mean if we get a new pack for the older cars with the new mcu2, would it solve the high sleep current issue?
The standby supply was introduced to the newer packs (ones with the fuse accessible from the bottom) a couple months before the Model X was shipped (summer 2015 IIRC)... and they weren't putting them in every pack yet either (I have seen quite a few from the crossover period that have a spot for it but no standby supply. Even if it does have one (end of 2015 car, or has had a pack replaced with one that does), pre-refresh S's don't have the wiring between the battery pack LV connector and the MCU+BCM to take advantage of the standby supply at all anyway.
They have improved MCU2's standalone sleep ability a bit, at the expense of delayed app usage and other startup related slowness (they're basically using some crude predictions to try and give the illusion of speedy startups)... but it still uses more power than MCU1 on pre-refresh S's.
So does this mean if we get a new pack for the older cars with the new mcu2, would it solve the high sleep current issue?
So all nose-cone cars regardless of build date will have higher sleep draw from MCU2 because there's no standby power from the HV battery? Or is there some other cutoff where some but not all later nose-cone cars have the wire harness?Basically no unless they also retrofit the wiring from the battery to the MCU2.
So all nose-cone cars regardless of build date will have higher sleep draw from MCU2 because there's no standby power from the HV battery? Or is there some other cutoff where some but not all later nose-cone cars have the wire harness?
Does your car has any warranty repairs in past? Since failure is just a month after warranty try to calculate if car is at Tesla service for warranty repair work. If it's more than a month your warranty should expand as well since technically Tesla has the car.Folks, reaching out here for advice or confirmation of best strategy... Lots of battery pack threads, I am picking this one.
A couple years back I convinced my parents to buy a Tesla. They chose a used 2013 P85+ with about 65K miles at the time. Fast forward to November 23rd of 2021 and the car died on the side of the road. My mom was driving and when it died, she got out of the car, looked around, didn't see anything wrong, got back in and the car started and she drove it home. Long story short the battery was acting up. I took it for a test drive, did the best I could to diagnose what was wrong. What happens is when you push the car, like flooring it, the car starts to quickly loose power. It will briefly achieve 280kw or so then quickly drop. If you keep pushing it you get less and less power output until the car gives up and dies. I drove it a bit and after my test drive I used scan my tesla to try to spot any defective behavior from the battery, such as a brick with low voltage. Everything looked reasonably balanced, less that 20mV of imbalance with the entire pack. Seems OK to me. The car charges just fine, doesn't show any weird charge level limiting or anything. Anyway, we took the car into Tesla. They said the pack is faulty and must be replaced. I asked them to make sure it wasn't something simple like a pack fuse, contactor or something. My dad and I really tried to push Tesla to offer a cheaper repair option. No such luck with Tesla. Only way they fix it is with a refurb pack or a new pack. Oh and by the way it's no longer under warranty, which expired about a month prior.
I understand the nature of these cars but my mother was beside herself with anger and frustration at the situation. She wants to do what the youtuber did and blow up the whole car. Sigh.
Anyway, it's been sitting at the Tesla service center for almost two months now waiting for a battery. Everything I am reading about the refurbished batteries, really seems like it is at best a "lottery" with who knows what pack you end up with. Frankly, as long as it's not another old style 400Volt 85Kwh pack like the one that was in it (severely crippled supercharging) I would be OK with it. The estimate approved from Tesla shows a part number for a 90kwh pack, which is fine if that's what they actually give me. However, I am seeing that at least some folks are receiving old 85packs still (not the new 350V one). Which scares me, as these packs appear to be garbage in every way. Poor reliability, poor charging, and etc..
Does anyone have any better insight into how Tesla refurbishes packs? Is this just a random thing with what pack you end up with?
Should I take the car back and go to a 3rd party shop like WK57 to try another way to fix this car?
As it happens, the company I work for actually has a complete low mileage 85kwh pack that was salvaged from a wrecked car. We used it briefly for something here that I won't get into, but is now just sitting around and is available (not for free). I originally was thinking about doing that, however I really don't want the old 85 packs due to what I have learned over the last couple of years about them.
But, I am really trying to avoid getting more grief about this pack problem with this car, and I know the 'rents will be further incensed if Tesla does put an old 85 pack in it when their approved estimated stated it was going to be a 90kwh pack (which would at least have the newer chemistry cells).
Anyone in the know have any additional advice?
Warranties don't work that way...If it's more than a month your warranty should expand as well since technically Tesla has the car.
This would seem to be assuredly false given the observed wide variability in capacity/degradation across remanufactured packs.Coming to refurbished packs I think (from service center folks) cells would be new and only parts used in pack would be used.
Aren't the 350V packs all the smaller capacity ones? The 400V packs would be the 85, 90, 100 packs. 350V packs are 60, 70, 75.(not the new 350V one).
As far as I remember, only v1 90 batteries are as bad or about, as the 85: degradation and slow SuC.Folks, reaching out here for advice or confirmation of best strategy... Lots of battery pack threads, I am picking this one.
A couple years back I convinced my parents to buy a Tesla. They chose a used 2013 P85+ with about 65K miles at the time. Fast forward to November 23rd of 2021 and the car died on the side of the road. My mom was driving and when it died, she got out of the car, looked around, didn't see anything wrong, got back in and the car started and she drove it home. Long story short the battery was acting up. I took it for a test drive, did the best I could to diagnose what was wrong. What happens is when you push the car, like flooring it, the car starts to quickly loose power. It will briefly achieve 280kw or so then quickly drop. If you keep pushing it you get less and less power output until the car gives up and dies. I drove it a bit and after my test drive I used scan my tesla to try to spot any defective behavior from the battery, such as a brick with low voltage. Everything looked reasonably balanced, less that 20mV of imbalance with the entire pack. Seems OK to me. The car charges just fine, doesn't show any weird charge level limiting or anything. Anyway, we took the car into Tesla. They said the pack is faulty and must be replaced. I asked them to make sure it wasn't something simple like a pack fuse, contactor or something. My dad and I really tried to push Tesla to offer a cheaper repair option. No such luck with Tesla. Only way they fix it is with a refurb pack or a new pack. Oh and by the way it's no longer under warranty, which expired about a month prior.
I understand the nature of these cars but my mother was beside herself with anger and frustration at the situation. She wants to do what the youtuber did and blow up the whole car. Sigh.
Anyway, it's been sitting at the Tesla service center for almost two months now waiting for a battery. Everything I am reading about the refurbished batteries, really seems like it is at best a "lottery" with who knows what pack you end up with. Frankly, as long as it's not another old style 400Volt 85Kwh pack like the one that was in it (severely crippled supercharging) I would be OK with it. The estimate approved from Tesla shows a part number for a 90kwh pack, which is fine if that's what they actually give me. However, I am seeing that at least some folks are receiving old 85packs still (not the new 350V one). Which scares me, as these packs appear to be garbage in every way. Poor reliability, poor charging, and etc..
Does anyone have any better insight into how Tesla refurbishes packs? Is this just a random thing with what pack you end up with?
Should I take the car back and go to a 3rd party shop like WK57 to try another way to fix this car?
As it happens, the company I work for actually has a complete low mileage 85kwh pack that was salvaged from a wrecked car. We used it briefly for something here that I won't get into, but is now just sitting around and is available (not for free). I originally was thinking about doing that, however I really don't want the old 85 packs due to what I have learned over the last couple of years about them.
But, I am really trying to avoid getting more grief about this pack problem with this car, and I know the 'rents will be further incensed if Tesla does put an old 85 pack in it when their approved estimated stated it was going to be a 90kwh pack (which would at least have the newer chemistry cells).
Anyone in the know have any additional advice?
Does this mean my contactors are again on all the time? Perhaps this is part of a new failure mode where when the 12v battery capacity gets low enough, the contactors stay on and the dc-dc inverter is kept on all the time? I supposed I could test that by disconnecting the new battery to see if everything shuts off.
I know this is getting fairly OT for the thread, but this is what makes Sentry feel bonkers to me. It really offers very little practical advantage that I see, effectively becoming very expensive insurance. Some people love it though, and I'll take that it means I get the benefit of people thinking my car might have Sentry going.For example, sentry mode on newer models uses a ton of power... I've seen around 30 miles of vampire drain in a day on an otherwise idle Model 3 before (suggesting an average 280W load...), which is crazy to me.
Tesla now makes a 350v 85/90 pack (it’s been listed as both capacities, but the pack seems to be the same). Speculated to be a 14 module pack with 100kwh-style modules.Aren't the 350V packs all the smaller capacity ones? The 400V packs would be the 85, 90, 100 packs. 350V packs are 60, 70, 75.
This car has a lot of prior warranty repairs, mostly from the prior owner. Although no HV battery specific repairs that I am aware of. I don't have all the repair paperwork from the prior owner, but the Tesla service adviser did go through it's history with me on his computer screen. Staggering amount of repairs really, compared to my S60. My mom (who was the primary driver) said that the car did seem to start getting weak earlier in the summer, but she never bothered to say anything to me until it up and died. Had she mentioned something, it was still under warranty at that time, probably would have gotten it fixed under warranty. But it wasn't throwing error messages, so hard to prove to Tesla this happened while under warranty.Does your car has any warranty repairs in past? Since failure is just a month after warranty try to calculate if car is at Tesla service for warranty repair work. If it's more than a month your warranty should expand as well since technically Tesla has the car.
Coming to refurbished packs I think (from service center folks) cells would be new and only parts used in pack would be used. I got reman 90kwh pack for 2014 S 85 and it's lot better than old 85.
How much did Tesla quoted you for reman 90 pack?
No need to check, they don’t. There is no real warranty with any of the third party options.You’d have to check on the included warranty and whether they can match or exceed Tesla's.
Can you check this reference, is there no typo?They show it as part number 11029812-01-A
How old, by the way? Will an X always have the standby wiring?The older cars don't even have the wiring from the battery pack connector to the MCU in order to utilize a standby supply even if the pack is replaced. I've not tried retrofitting this wiring in an older car, so I'm not 100% sure if it would work without issues. It'd definitely be a bit of a task.