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Stick on vinyl number plates

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View attachment 535763
Top = Before
Bottom = After.

acrylic plates - front screwed (and stuck) on to the original Tesla mount. Rear stuck on directly to the boot

I think the back looks a lot better, but TBH I prefer the 'sleek' look of the vinyl stick on plate. I think it has a sort of 'vintage sports car' look e.g.

classic.jpg
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Basically front number plates are an embarrassment, especially on curvilinear cars like these or like our Model 3s. All of this discussion is about how to get over this unavoidable fact. It's a shame we can't do without them, as in California.
 
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I think the back looks a lot better, but TBH I prefer the 'sleek' look of the vinyl stick on plate. I think it has a sort of 'vintage sports car' look e.g.

View attachment 535768 View attachment 535767
I think some of the reason I didn’t like the stick on was because I went higher (to get a flat surface) than the original position.

very marmite and of course this thread is all about the stick on plate. Was just suggesting other options
 
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Bloody hell that was harder than I expected!!!

Rear went on fine no issues.

Front I found to be a sod as the front bumper curves in two directions left to right and up and down

I’ve got marks/bubbles showing above the ‘holes’ in the front bumper so I might order another one and have another go tbh

Will see how much it bothers me over the next few days.

also because I lifted and tried to sort the hole out after I’d pressed it down I’m not sure how well stuck the top left corner is

oh well looks dramatically better than the hideous mounts.

advice appreciated how others did the front with no issues?!
 
For those opting to purchase replacement plates, stick on or otherwise, is it still necessary/wise to include the EU country identifier?

I haven't read much about what this could/should/would mean post Brexit and when I purchased my stick on plates I decided to omit this.

I'm planning a road trip to Slovakia next year (hopefully) so maybe I should have retained it?
 
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For those opting to purchase replacement plates, stick on or otherwise, is it still necessary/wise to include the EU country identifier?

I haven't read much about what this could/should/would mean post Brexit and when I purchased my stick on plates I decided to omit this.

I'm planning a road trip to Slovakia next year (hopefully) so maybe I should have retained it?
I dont think its necessary but as I understood it by having them on their it saves separate GB stickers if you do travel
 
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For those opting to purchase replacement plates, stick on or otherwise, is it still necessary/wise to include the EU country identifier?

I haven't read much about what this could/should/would mean post Brexit and when I purchased my stick on plates I decided to omit this.

I'm planning a road trip to Slovakia next year (hopefully) so maybe I should have retained it?

Just buy a cheapie GB sticker for the back; should sort it.
 
advice appreciated how others did the front with no issues?!

As @NorfolkMustard stated soy water and counter sink holes, after counter sinking i also put a small piece of blue tac in the hole to level off, i also used a heat gun on low (hair dryer would do) to help soften the plate and bend it to the contours of the car.
Use credit card wrapped round micro fibre to squeeze soapy water out from behind the plate.
 
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Is there any truth in the story that the radar signal is blocked if the plate is put a bit higher up ie on the flatter part ? I much prefer the look of it like that and it's a lot easier to fit it there.

As I reported in post 164 of this thread, there are reports from the US of stick-on vinyl plates blocking the radar. It appears most reflective plates have a metal layer and that is enough to upset the radar (generating the error "Cruise not available: Reduced front radar visibility") if mounted too high.
 
I researched where the radar was. There is a cutout in the bumper so clearly needs that to see low field which may include 'seeing' under vehicles ahead - worth noting its position in relation to the height of the tow hook eye - its a little higher, but not a lot - see horizontal lines.

Partial occlusion of the radar does not necessarily mean total failure, but it does mean blind spot.

Tesla radar.png


Its just a diagram, but confirms approx location
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I've updated the image and put a yellow line that is probably a bit more accurate as it takes the curve of the bumper into account.

Still looks less than the height of the tow eye between top of tow eye and radar cutout. Caution needs to be exercised as size of tow eye in bumper may not match that in bumper. Green circle bottom right of cutout is visually same size as tow eye.

Tesla radar.png
 
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Having fitted two stick on plates over the last few months on my M3 (the first was pinched!) I'd definitely follow the advice on here and position it lower down. I originally fitted my first plate bang on in the middle and although I didn't get any specific error pop up, the ACC was all over the place. Picking up cars that weren't in my lane and even other objects at the side of the road.

I fitted my 2nd plate 160mm from the bottom lip as per Mark-R's post on page 9 of this thread and it's been perfect.

The irony is that whoever nicked it helped speed up the replacement!
 
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I saw that a while ago in your earlier posts, thanks, shows exactly where the transmitter is.

I've ordered some plates from one stop. They said the plates do not contain metal and they had never heard of this problem before. I'll fit the front temporarily with gaffa tape and try out the cruise control and see what happens. Hopefully it'll be OK.