You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
While I don't agree that the car charging system is the likely culprit, I do agree that it is easiest to check, cheapest to check, and if it is NOT the problem, gives information to the electrician so they know it isn't the car or charging system.I admit a failed resistor is not likely.
Higher resistance is required for a lower current signal. I remember because I would have paralleled the resistor to use my 14/50 with a 30A outlet if that would have worked.
It really needs to be tested on another receptacle that is known to be in working order, I still suggest the nearest service center. It'll most likely be either be something wrong with the UMC/adapter, or something in the car's charging system. Either way Tesla would take care of it.
Okay... I’ll give you that one. It’s not a dealership... it’s a showroom and sevice center.Off topic, but please don’t call the service center a “Tesla dealership”. It’s like nails on a chalkboard.
Good question... the closest one to me (I live in Longwood, FL) is on the FL turnpike at the Turkey Lake service plaza. It’s about a 40 minute drive and I really have no reason to head in that direction other than to potentially diagnose this issue further... with the holidays in full swing I think I’ll just let the folks at the service center figure this one out when I take it in on the 4th.@Theflash95 does your vehicle still charge normally at a supercharger?
Wow... that’s some good info and it certainly sounds like that could be the case.@Theflash95 Something is now a little familiar and coming back to mind. When Tesla was doing the facelift in 2016 and bringing in the new onboard chargers, the Tesla community (being the curious bunch that they are) investigated it a little and found that the new "single piece" 48A and 72A chargers are still a little bit modular inside, made up of 24A internal pieces. The 48A and 72A versions are built from two and three of those internal modules, respectively.
That's why that 24A number was bugging me about why it would be exactly that. I am wondering if part of the internal charger blew, which may have sent a spike of current up the line, tripping the breaker. Now, only one internal module inside the charger works. That's a graceful failure mode if that's what it is, instead of just being dead.
The service centers can still do that; several people have had it done. I forget the price quote for it, but I think it's something like $1,500. Go ahead and tell them that if they find that it's a bad internal charger that you'd like to do the 72A upgrade instead of replacing the 48A one.If they have to replace my onboard charger I wonder what the chances are that they can throw in a 72 amp one instead of the 48? Unless of course there are other parts that would also have to be changed to accommodate the higher amperage.
Boo-yah!Long story short... they are going to replace the onboard charger and have ordered the part... hopefully it doesn't take long to get here (I've read some horror stories on this forum, so fingers crossed). My guess is that Rocky_H is right and one of the 24A boards died.
That may sound hokey, but it is something that the car can do sometimes. If the battery pack is getting very hot, it can divert the flow so that the battery coolant runs through the A/C chiller for a while to cool the battery down instead of the interior cabin heat exchanger. However, when it does this, it displays a clear notification message on the screen telling you that A/C is being reduced to cool the battery. That generally only comes up in 100+ degree areas or while Supercharging. This probably wouldn't happen in Florida in December/January, so I would think it's something else.I also told him about the A/C issue and he said if you step on it a lot on a hot day the A/C will cut off to divert resources to cool the battery... not sure if that is true, but again it happened only after one hard press on the "go" pedal up until I hit about 65 mph... it wasn't a day of stepping on it at every light.
Boo-yah!
That may sound hokey, but it is something that the car can do sometimes. If the battery pack is getting very hot, it can divert the flow so that the battery coolant runs through the A/C chiller for a while to cool the battery down instead of the interior cabin heat exchanger. However, when it does this, it displays a clear notification message on the screen telling you that A/C is being reduced to cool the battery. That generally only comes up in 100+ degree areas or while Supercharging. This probably wouldn't happen in Florida in December/January, so I would think it's something else.
My advice is be happy you had a Tesla loaner and that your car is now fixed, and stop looking for freebies. Free annual service because you drove a different Tesla than yours for 2 weeks? That’s ridiculous.Wow that took a while... just a day shy of 2 weeks. At least I had a Tesla loaner so it was almost like having the same car while my baby was in the shop. I’ve seen some people post they got free annual service for their car being in the shop, although I’m not sure if my issue warrants something like that. Any advice? I didn’t get anything when I took delivery (mug, shirt, etc.)... I didn’t even get that chrome looking plastic rear license plate frame, which I HAVE asked them for. They told me they were ordering it, so hopefully they can at least give me that.
My advice is be happy you had a Tesla loaner and that your car is now fixed, and stop looking for freebies. Free annual service because you drove a different Tesla than yours for 2 weeks? That’s ridiculous.
Did you go with the 72 amp charger upgrade or stick with the 48 amp unit?