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Tesla Model 3 DM Performance - Autocross/Time Trial Build for USCA (Optima)
- Thread starter Rexpelagi
- Start date
Normally yes, it would be effective 1/1/2021, but I believe it's actually effective immediately, based on the language:
The reference to 3.2 is the key, as it is the provision for immediate change, and includes the language regarding OTA updates:
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Ok, I'm an idiot. I will document for anyone else.
I only moved my seat forward and back and the bar looks attached and doesn't move. After your reply I tired also moving in the vertical direction and it also moves it forward when doing that. So it is accessible.
What are the 2 little flat black pieces that are seat belt width by 1/4" for?
Mine came with no directions at all.
Thanks!
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I'm keeping an eye on this thread as here in the UK we are on the verge of being allowed to enter electric cars into our equivalent of Autocross and other events such as hillclimbs, sprints, rallies and circuit racing. It may happen this year.
At the moment, the National rules don't even allow it. I'm attending a meeting this week where this is going to be discussed by the people in charge of the regulations for UK motorsport so it's going to be interesting to hear what they say and if they've looked at what's been going on with the SCCA and USCA.
One thing I'm really interested in is how you guys feel about electic cars being put in a class of their own as opposed to mixing them in with ICE cars. That seems to be the main difference between the SCCA and USCA rules if I've read them right. I have no idea how it will go here but I'm concerned that if we are forced into a dedicated class, the entry numbers will be so low at the start it may never get off the ground. Any thoughts?
At the moment, the National rules don't even allow it. I'm attending a meeting this week where this is going to be discussed by the people in charge of the regulations for UK motorsport so it's going to be interesting to hear what they say and if they've looked at what's been going on with the SCCA and USCA.
One thing I'm really interested in is how you guys feel about electic cars being put in a class of their own as opposed to mixing them in with ICE cars. That seems to be the main difference between the SCCA and USCA rules if I've read them right. I have no idea how it will go here but I'm concerned that if we are forced into a dedicated class, the entry numbers will be so low at the start it may never get off the ground. Any thoughts?
A couple of things that may further help someone doing the belts.
The seat going up also goes forward to expose the t20 screw. It doesn't need to come all the way out, just enough to release the metal on top.
The drivers attachment bracket is attached with a t45 and will need to bend outward as you tighten as the inside of where is it attached is not flat.
The headrest doesn't need to come off, just up enough to feed belts thru. I actually didn't push mine down to where it clicked again. I left it so it comes up without doing the clips and I can remove the belts. The clips are farther down in there than you think.
The back seat of mine doesn't have the metal hooks on the trunk side. The seat belt attachment 16mm is low on the pillar not on the base.
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Total newbie here but I am trying to learn from looking at info from this thread and "MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track"
I guess I will ask in this one as it seems more MPP centered and that's route I went.
So I had the MPP coilovers, rear camber & toe arms, front camber arm, steel brake lines, UP street/track pads, Castrol racing brake fluid, all installed with MPP recommended street settings. I have a 3 performance with the 20" wheels and this is my daily driver but will track too.
1st up when I back out of my garage to my driveway there is about a 4 inch drop. After install I bottom out on something as it compresses. The stock suspension didn't do that. I know that's probably not a real world scenario so I can deal with it if it is not something installed wrong/dangerous. Hard to reproduce for installer or video, etc.
2nd, the installer installed all the shims and could only get the front camber to -1 for normal street config. What is recommended? Can more shims be installed to get to 0. It is pretty knife edge steering and AP tends to ping pong more. I don't know yet what the no shims setting would get.
3rd, do I just carry the front knob around for adjustment? Is there a way to have it installed that leaves it with it being accessible? If anyone has a pic that would be great.
After that, I was thinking that I could get the adjustments you guys do or get final settings and work with my alignment guy and document that when I get to the track I can just know to do 5 clicks here, 4 clicks there, remove shims, loosen nut - turn 1 turn clockwise and tighten. Then reverse when done.
I also was thinking that I would eventually run (suggested) light weight 18" with (suggested) tire and spec and that would drop me another inch lower for track and I might not have to adjust the height.
Thank you for any advise in advance from you guys that know what you are doing.
Appreciate it.
I guess I will ask in this one as it seems more MPP centered and that's route I went.
So I had the MPP coilovers, rear camber & toe arms, front camber arm, steel brake lines, UP street/track pads, Castrol racing brake fluid, all installed with MPP recommended street settings. I have a 3 performance with the 20" wheels and this is my daily driver but will track too.
1st up when I back out of my garage to my driveway there is about a 4 inch drop. After install I bottom out on something as it compresses. The stock suspension didn't do that. I know that's probably not a real world scenario so I can deal with it if it is not something installed wrong/dangerous. Hard to reproduce for installer or video, etc.
2nd, the installer installed all the shims and could only get the front camber to -1 for normal street config. What is recommended? Can more shims be installed to get to 0. It is pretty knife edge steering and AP tends to ping pong more. I don't know yet what the no shims setting would get.
3rd, do I just carry the front knob around for adjustment? Is there a way to have it installed that leaves it with it being accessible? If anyone has a pic that would be great.
After that, I was thinking that I could get the adjustments you guys do or get final settings and work with my alignment guy and document that when I get to the track I can just know to do 5 clicks here, 4 clicks there, remove shims, loosen nut - turn 1 turn clockwise and tighten. Then reverse when done.
I also was thinking that I would eventually run (suggested) light weight 18" with (suggested) tire and spec and that would drop me another inch lower for track and I might not have to adjust the height.
Thank you for any advise in advance from you guys that know what you are doing.
Appreciate it.
I don't mean to hijack this Performance thread, but since you asked...being a RWD owner, I would prefer that EVs were mixed with ICE cars into classes based on weight to HP ratio + mods. The problem with EV only classes is that there are too many sub-classes. Take Tesla Corsa for example. They have the Tesla Challenge with the 5 classes:
1. Track Car 1: It doesn't matter what Tesla you have, if you have slicks you fall into this class
2. Street Car 1: Model 3 performance only
3. Street Car 2: Any Model 3 that is not the P (I hate the term non-performance)
4. Street Car 3: Model S or X (Unlike with drag racing, even a P100D+ cannot match a Performance 3 on a road course.)
5. Street Car 4: Beginner class for new drivers. Does not matter which car you have.
That's already a lot of classes, but still includes too wide a range of cars within a class. Classes based on weight to HP ratios would alleviate this disparity.
Also, it is fun to see how EVs can compete on even footing with any car out there like the OP has done in multiple competitions. The couple events that I've done with mixed cars have been fun - in this one I came in second out of 12 cars in my class while I was still on the stock all season tires.
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You sure it's not suspension droop on one wheel that's doing it? How can you tell it's bottoming out, because normally you can not tell when suspension bottoms out going slow, as there are squishy bump-stops that absorb the impact.
You don't want 0 camber if you're planning on any aggressive driving. 1* is a not bad for street and some performance driving, but you want significantly more for the track. You should check your toe values if you feel that the car is too unstable. At 1* camber that shouldn't change driving feel much.
Changing wheel size does not typically change ride height significantly as typically you keep the wheel height and circumference close to stock.
PS - these posts probably belong in the other thread, IMO. Or perhaps a new thread.
T20 was a bitch to unscrew. And another one was T50, not T45. Backseat pillar cushion is not sitting correct anymore - makes sounds if pushing it, but can't fix it... Used your advice to not push the headrest down and now I can take out belts and out back easily.
Thanks everyone for good info. BTW, in EU, Quickfit is not available since it's not certified. Made in Germany only for US. Had to sneak it back.
This is what I discovered too. I looked for another suitable harness which is EU certified, but couldn't find anything as suitable as the Quickfit, so I'm bringing some in from the U.S. as well.
The car is classed in ASP, although a lot of the MPP upgrades use sphericals which as noted in this thread somewhere earlier are not allowed in *SP, which is asinine, but that's the SCCA for you. The car is legal in SM as well, and there is also a new EV class that's basically intended to allow whatever you want, but on 200tw, however rules haven't been released yet.
We sent you some goodies today John!
Ohhhhh, awesome, thanks! I'm looking forward to it, the lift is lonely and this post needs some updates.
I'm using them because they are cheap and available off-the-shelf, and I don't think weight matters much on a 4000lb car with plenty of power. If it was a Miata I'd definitely be looking for lighter wheels.
This year I'm going wider so I may end up going with something more-custom, but we shall see.
Hey everyone - it's been a bit - this year has obviously been a little crazy for everyone, but I did install a few more pieces of the MPP suspension offerings (all rear arms now replaced in the back, along with the front lower bushing), and I recently took my car to NCM Motorsports Park to try to chase down Andy Pilgrim's time in a Taycan Turbo S (2:15.3 - https://www.proracerstake.com/). I didn't quite make it, but I got within 0.5s, and I'm very happy with that - ended up 14/212 overall for the event too! This is the fastest I've run at the track with this car by around 2.5s, mostly down to aggression, more suspension mods, and some of the tweaks from earlier this year provided by Tesla. This was also on the fastest 200tw street tire out there right now that I'm aware of (295/25R19 Kumho ACR), so it's an aggressive tire, but certainly not an A7 by any means.
Check out the video here!
Check out the video here!
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