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Tesla Model S UMC cut open and modified to J1772

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Would this J1772 modified Model S MC work on a Roadster using a CAN?

Tesla is at least a month out for the Roadster UMC for new Preowned owners and the Model S MC is less expensive than Roadster's UMC (even with your $200 charge). If so, count me in! Do I have to order the Model S MC and ship to you for modification or do you handle that "all in".

Dennis

Of course, it will work with a J1772 "can" on a Roadster.

Just PayPal me $200, and drop ship the UMC and J1772 from Tucson EV (they know me well now!!!). That way I don't have a cash outlay, nor a sales tax issue.

NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. This will void any Tesla warranty on your UMC. Caveat Emptor.
 
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Tesla Model S UMC disassembled. It's a bit difficult to disassemble because they used two plastic exterior shells and filled it with a black plastic material. There's really no air in there (or a place for water).

The aluminum top piece (with TESLA on it) is just glued on, and pops off easily, but probably not without bending. The six holes you see in the black exterior shell directly under the aluminum bit are what I drilled "looking for screws". Of course, they don't use any!

Those holes were where they injected the black plastic that you see all around all the wires. Even the circuit card for the J1772 proximity switch and the remote control for the charge port door is "glued in" with this black plastic.

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Wire colors:

1) Red - Neutral or L2
2) Black - Hot L1
3) Green with Yellow strip - apparently how the Chinese make a green ground/earth wire
4) Purple - pilot signal
5) Blue - 3.3 volts to power remote control transmitter from UMC "box"
6) Green - probably ground for the remote control transmitter (this does not leave the UMC plug handle)
7) Orange - probably an antenna for the remote control transmitter? (this does not leave the UMC plug handle)

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S1 is the switch for the J1772 proximity circuit. R1 is the 150 ohm resistor that signals the proximity pin is connected to the car. When the S1 switch is pressed (closed), the 330 ohm resistor R2 is added in series to R1, creating 480 ohms to ground (150 + 330) which signals to disconnect. Yep, that simple.

S2 is the switch for the transmitter that opens the Model S charge port. It is powered from the UMC with 3.3 volts from the blue wire.

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Left to right, proximity pin, ground pin, pilot pin

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Aren't these beautiful? They feel SOLID! They don't have any anti-rotating devices. Industry standard 4 indent crimp. No seals around these pins; they just sit in the plastic holder.

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The other pins except the two power pins do have seals around them. Those parallel conductors in each power pin are about 12 gauge (sorry, I don't know the metric equivalent)

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See the lining in the socket of the lower power pin? I don't have a very good picture of the center coaxial pin in the socket. It's made out of a different material than the socket, which is likely a copper alloy.

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Interesting pics, thanks!

A couple of questions. What do you mean by "1772 proximity circuit"? A HPWC connecting to a Model S uses no J1772 plugs/adapters... and what is detecting "proximity"?

How is S1 pressed if it's inside this handle and only S2 is the charge port door switch?

Thanks.
 
What do you mean by "1772 proximity circuit"? A HPWC connecting to a Model S uses no J1772 plugs/adapters... and what is detecting "proximity”? How is S1 pressed if it's inside this handle and only S2 is the charge port door switch?
S1 and S2 are both in the handle and both are activated when the handle button is pressed. The Tesla UMC (and HPWC) are J1772 compatible - just the connector is different. The proximity signal is used by J1772 to signal that the connector is being disconnected.
 
S1 and S2 are both in the handle and both are activated when the handle button is pressed. The Tesla UMC (and HPWC) are J1772 compatible - just the connector is different. The proximity signal is used by J1772 to signal that the connector is being disconnected.

Tesla uses the J1772 protocols in both AC and DC. Just the actual plug is different. If you look at this picture of the bottom side of the button, it has two circular protrusions that actually connect to S1 and S2. The three indents in a row are to clear the solder joints on the circuit card.


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Here, you can see the entire J1772 proximity circuit on both the EVSE side and the car side. R4, R5 on the car, and R6, R7 and S3 in the EVSE (that correspond to S1, R1 and R2 in the Tesla plug):


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Can you elaborate why it would be a bad idea? I like the lock feature of the tesla connector. I don't want somebody walking off with a $280 cord.

You can put a simple padlock on the J1772 plug. The easy extension cord answer is the ModularEV solution, where you can plug the J1772 from a public charge station into this unit and then plug your UMC into your car. Don't try and pull 40 amps, however, or you will blow the circuit breaker in a typical 30 amp public charge station. I can't stress this enough... The quickest way to give Tesla a black eye amongst EV drivers is to have frequent failed J1772 public charge stations that Tesla drivers intentionally failed.

Modular EV Power

- - - Updated - - -

Haven't tested my TonyWilliams special J1772 on my better half's Roadster yet... (PEM charging issue had to bring it back after TWO days at home), but I did get to use it on the loaner Model S P85+ AND on my Active E... It works like a dream.

Now we just have to get the Roadster home and we can try it out with the CAN.

Good luck, glad you like it. I haven't had anybody yet not like this combo, and it's becoming somewhat popular with the Tesla powered Rav4 EV folks with only a J1772 charge port and a 120 volt 12 amp charge cable!!!
 
Haven't tested my TonyWilliams special J1772 on my better half's Roadster yet... (PEM charging issue had to bring it back after TWO days at home), but I did get to use it on the loaner Model S P85+ AND on my Active E... It works like a dream.

Now we just have to get the Roadster home and we can try it out with the CAN.

Ok... Got Roadster back. It was a PEM problem. Tesla replaced it, works great now. Charged at 40A from a NEMA 6-50 and NEMA 14-50 with the CAN.

Thanks TonyWilliams.

It is awesome. I now have the flexibility to charge either my ActiveE or Roadster all over the house (I have a NEMA 6-50 in the garage and a NEMA 14-50 outside.
 
Ok... Got Roadster back. It was a PEM problem. Tesla replaced it, works great now. Charged at 40A from a NEMA 6-50 and NEMA 14-50 with the CAN.

Thanks TonyWilliams.

It is awesome. I now have the flexibility to charge either my ActiveE or Roadster all over the house (I have a NEMA 6-50 in the garage and a NEMA 14-50 outside.

Another happy UMC conversion!

J1772 Adapter

$135 for the 70 amp J1772 plug for those converting their Tesla UMC. Sorry, I can't cut any deals with Tesla on the whole $650 UMC kit:

Shop Tesla Gear Mobile Connector Bundle

Have them both dropped shipped to me, and for $200, I'll do the conversion. No warranty, expressed or implied.

Tony