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Tesla says it can't be done: But it can: new higher resolution rear camera

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Are there before and after pictures during the day, twilight and night? Curious just how much this will improve things.

From Pete's website:

LED License Plate Bulb Kit

abstract ocean bulbs.jpg
 
Wait... you have better backup lights too? (My new interior lights arrive tomorrow.) Or do you just mean that your brighter license plate lights help light things up? I don't really care about lighting up my plate, but the backup lights are just so dim....

The license plate replacement bulbs provide more light, which improves visibility when backing up.

Abstract Ocean also sells replacement interior bulbs, but I'm reasonably certain they do not yet have replacement bulbs for the actual back up lights, if that would even be a possibility.
 
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I'm embarking on a project to run a Tesla-compatible camera on the back of my Airstream, and send the imagery up to the main display in the X. I plan to have it switched, but was hoping to hard-switch it and not use a PCB solution. My runs will be longer than the front camera kits, and I'll have to make sure there's a fitting at the hitch point so that I can attach or detach during the hitch process. I would probably make the receiving end available near the 7-way on the Model X.

@Andyw2100 pointed me here - I'm guessing there will be some old Tesla rear camera assemblies for sale. When someone's ready to part with their used camera, let me know. I'm also open to advice related to my particular project.

As indicated in the OP I now have two Tesla cameras (front and rear) as a result of Of replacing them with the new higher resolution versions. PM me if you want them.
 
The license plate replacement bulbs provide more light, which improves visibility when backing up.

Abstract Ocean also sells replacement interior bulbs, but I'm reasonably certain they do not yet have replacement bulbs for the actual back up lights, if that would even be a possibility.
You're exactly right regarding the licence plate lights, and don't forget, Tesla started installing their own (dimmer) LED bulbs somewhere in the VIN90000 range (Oct 2014ish, I think), and they're not easily replaceable. As for the backup lights, and @artsci probably knows better than I, but I think it's necessary to remove the rear chrome trim to get to them, which means it's not really a good fit for the products we sell, since we aim for everything to be installable by the end user.
 
I'm embarking on a project to run a Tesla-compatible camera on the back of my Airstream, and send the imagery up to the main display in the X. I plan to have it switched, but was hoping to hard-switch it and not use a PCB solution. My runs will be longer than the front camera kits, and I'll have to make sure there's a fitting at the hitch point so that I can attach or detach during the hitch process. I would probably make the receiving end available near the 7-way on the Model X.

@Andyw2100 pointed me here - I'm guessing there will be some old Tesla rear camera assemblies for sale. When someone's ready to part with their used camera, let me know. I'm also open to advice related to my particular project.

ohmman, If the idea of a rear-rear Tesla cam does not work out, you might want to look at the Blackvue DR650S-2CH TRUCK version. Mounts a rear cam on the back of the truck or trailer. You can view the image with an ipad or tablet. Although its not on your center console, its still viewable. DR650S-2CH TRUCK

And although its not showing this week, last week, Blackvue was showing a small LCD display that sits on the dash to view live pictures from the camera. Something must have changed, but I suspect it will be back.
 
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Thanks Andy, and yes, we've had no reports of strobing or any other issues with our bulbs...generally people like them becuase they also provide much better lighting for backing up.
I have the same interference issue with my LED downlights in my living room: Faint, but very noticable and disturbing, moving black stripes across my cell phone camera displays. (Affects both Samsung, iPhone and other brands.)

Are you sure that this isn't an inherent problem with LEDs? I'm thinking it has to do with the standard wave lenght / freq bands of LEDs and cameras... Would be nice to hear some more technical details on this particular subject, but I guess we're off-topic...
 
Are there before and after pictures during the day, twilight and night? Curious just how much this will improve things.
My only experience with the new camera was in a loaner car a few months ago, and unfortunately I didn't take any pictures. However I can tell you that the difference is significant. With the new camera, I could clearly read all the letters on road signs and buildings as I drive by, and license plates of all cars behind me. The old camera sometimes even the license plate of the car directly behind me can appear blurry, and there's no hope of reading the plates of cars further back or to the sides.

I've ordered the new camera with my local SC and hopefully I'm handy enough to do the replacement myself. (The SC refuses to help with the replacement because their system says the camera is incompatible with my car.)
 
I have the same interference issue with my LED downlights in my living room: Faint, but very noticable and disturbing, moving black stripes across my cell phone camera displays. (Affects both Samsung, iPhone and other brands.)

Are you sure that this isn't an inherent problem with LEDs? I'm thinking it has to do with the standard wave lenght / freq bands of LEDs and cameras... Would be nice to hear some more technical details on this particular subject, but I guess we're off-topic...

This really isn't interference from the LEDs, it's how the digital camera CMOS sensor records with a "rolling shutter" causing the lines. In this case, due to the frequency of the LEDs not matching the frequency of the shutter scanning.

Here's an example video with an airplane prop:

And guitar strings:


This is also why you can see some LED turn signals or DRLs "flash" on dashcams.

Here's a quick demo of why it happens:

 
Would having the camera on Front View mess with HW2 AP2.0? Does AP settings use the rear-view camera in its decision making?

We don't have any idea at this point. In fact we don't even know if the camera connections are the same/compatible. (At least not that I know of.)

Though from what we have seen Tesla only lists the rear camera as being used with FSD, so it shouldn't cause any problems with EAP. (Unless it is used for safety features which they haven't mentioned.)
 
The RVcam is connected directly to the Nvidia PX2-unit. In order to get a *ninth* camera (front custom) to show up in the 17" display, it would at least require a completely separate cable directly fron cam to touchscreen - or spliced into the RVcam signal from PX2 to touchscreen - and some kind of software hack that actually provides the imagery to the screen.

2-cents and all
 
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The RVcam is connected directly to the Nvidia PX2-unit. In order to get a *ninth* camera (front custom) to show up in the 17" display, it would at least require a completely separate cable directly fron cam to touchscreen - or spliced into the RVcam signal from PX2 to touchscreen - and some kind of software hack that actually provides the imagery to the screen.

2-cents and all

So it sounds like you are saying that just like with the rear camera in the AP1 cars you could disconnect the camera from the back of the CID and hookup the switch to control what the CID sees. And since the camera goes directly to the PX2 box it shouldn't cause a problem. I wonder if the connector/pin-out/signaling is the same.
 
The RVcam is connected directly to the Nvidia PX2-unit. In order to get a *ninth* camera (front custom) to show up in the 17" display, it would at least require a completely separate cable directly fron cam to touchscreen - or spliced into the RVcam signal from PX2 to touchscreen - and some kind of software hack that actually provides the imagery to the screen.

2-cents and all

For one, what tells you the first 8 camera all connect directly to the PX-2 unit? And do they produce the same video image that the rear camera does? What tells you that? Where are each or any of those first 8 images displayed.

Next, do you have a method to splice the completely separate cable from the front cam into the RVcam signal. And some kind of software hack?

I don't see it. I don't see what you are trying to accomplish with all this splcing and hacking. What is it?