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Tesla service, what a joke!! Extremely frustrated.

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Just so everyone knows, that spare he bought is only rated for 50mph. The ModernSpare is rated for 81mph.

A 50mph spare is a lot better than no spare, but it's a lot less valuable than an 81mph spare. So less than half the price is still too much for me. Do yourself a favor and spend a little extra to get a spare that will get you where you need to go without being rear ended by a semi truck.
I can read the sticker but it is an H rated Toyo tire (130 mph) on a substantial aluminum rim with a load rating of 1521 lbs. I would think their liability concerns prompting the sticker are over improper use of lug adapters or failing to put in the proper hub adapter. My use would be for short term to drive immediately for a proper internal patch repair or purchase a new tire as I do NOT have the stock foam tires on my Y that most shops won't work on. The spare is also a backup as I have had good success over the years in plugging tires on road and then getting an internal patch. A new EZ spare costs $379, I got this one for $150. For that price I have a LOT of experience driving slow when I tow and have yet to be rear ended by a semi.
 

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^^^ I agree. Mjrotor: So, your check was higher than the amount on your account. You would have received a refund.

My purchasing process was SOOOO much nicer and easier than ANY dealership I've purchased from. NO waiting while the salesman walked back and forth with his "manager", as we were negotiating price. No REQUIRED sit-down discussion with the extended warranty guy, the paint protection guy, the "lifetime service" contract guy, etc. etc. EVERY car I purchased took 3-4 hours of pointless waiting, lined up with other buyers, waiting to sit down with the "financial" guy, even though I was paying cash.

My Tesla? No joke. I drove up with my son, we looked it over carefully for 15-20 minutes, and drove away. Yes, I found 2 issues: wheels weren't properly torqued (around 70ft/lbs, should have been 129ft/lbs). One piece of trim is slightly out-of-line. That's it. Detail shop (25 year experience) said the paint was as good as any high-end car.

Had to replace the noisy steering column (electrical vibration when retracting/extending). Done in 3 hours. Drove an S while I waited.
How were you able to determine incorrect wheel torque? I certainly don't have a torque wrench. Incorrectly tightened lugs is a safety issue and that is inexcusable.
 
I own a torque wrench.

If I were buying a Tesla today, I would NOT have it home delivered, I would pick it up at a Service Center. I would politely ASK for them to double-check the wheel lug nut torque. I've done this for EVERY car I've purchased, as techs can be very casual about this. EVERY SINGLE TIME anyone removes ANY wheel, I ask for them to tell ME the spec so I can confirm it, and then have them doublecheck with a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick. FYI, usually casual techs OVER torque, which can warp or crack wheels. HAHA: with a Tesla, at 129lb/ft, undertorque is more of a problem.
 
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I've always experienced mixed results with wheel lugnuts torque, not anything specific to Tesla. A lot of tire change places just seem to have one set point for all cars (which is usually to high) and even when I tell them what the specs need to be I often find them wrong. A good torque wrench isn't too expensive and should be something owners have so they can double check at home and if they need to swap a tire for any reason.
 
I've always experienced mixed results with wheel lugnuts torque, not anything specific to Tesla. A lot of tire change places just seem to have one set point for all cars (which is usually to high) and even when I tell them what the specs need to be I often find them wrong. A good torque wrench isn't too expensive and should be something owners have so they can double check at home and if they need to swap a tire for any reason.
An excellent idea. any recommendations on good quality/good value torque wrenches.
 
An excellent idea. any recommendations on good quality/good value torque wrenches.
I actually don't know. I've had mine for years... I think maybe it was $50 or something like that. I figure as long as it's close it should be an issue, plus/minus a few foot pounds wouldn't be a make it or break it type thing but still way better than the air guns most tire places use and the crazy high torque they usually do. Watch some youtube videos on how to use one (it's totally not rocket science, but there can be some little tricks to use it more accurately vs not) and maybe Google a little on good brands.