Tesla wall connector gen3 overheating fix

[Art VandeIay]

I'm on 1.4.4. You're on 21.29.1. Quite the disparity...

Unfortunately we don't have Release Notes for the Wall Connector updates, but my Gen3 went from 1.4.4 to 21.18.1 and then to 21.29.1.

It always updated on it's own, but the only (user facing) differences I could notice between all these versions, were that we lost the "Ground Resistance" measurement, we gained the "Access Control" setting, which let's you select if any car can charge on that Wall Connector or just Teslas, and gained the "Power Sharing" feature.

I suspect there must be some thermal throttling and new heat sensor readings for the Revision "F" units that had this issue as well.

 

[WilliamG]

Unfortunately we don't have Release Notes for the Wall Connector updates, but my Gen3 went from 1.4.4 to 21.18.1 and then to 21.29.1.

It always updated on it's own, but the only (user facing) differences I could notice between all these versions, were that we lost the "Ground Resistance" measurement, we gained the "Access Control" setting, which let's you select if any car can charge on that Wall Connector or just Teslas, and gained the "Power Sharing" feature.

I suspect there must be some thermal throttling and new heat sensor readings for the Revision "F" units that had this issue as well.

Right. Mine is a revision G. Not having any issues so far with the charger (the car is another matter). Cheers!

 

[TomServo]

Just installed my new Gen 3 “G” version updated to 21.29.1. But gonna monitor temps with a infrared temperature gun I borrowed from a friend. So far even after a 2+ hour charging session none of the temps I took exceeded 100 degrees (garage temps were in the low eighties). But since I like to do LONG charging sessions after we go to bed, I don’t want to wake up to a problem. So I want to know how the new Gen 3 WC is performing before we do any more over night charging sessions when we are asleep.

 

[WilliamG]

Unfortunately we don't have Release Notes for the Wall Connector updates, but my Gen3 went from 1.4.4 to 21.18.1 and then to 21.29.1.

It always updated on it's own, but the only (user facing) differences I could notice between all these versions, were that we lost the "Ground Resistance" measurement, we gained the "Access Control" setting, which let's you select if any car can charge on that Wall Connector or just Teslas, and gained the "Power Sharing" feature.

I suspect there must be some thermal throttling and new heat sensor readings for the Revision "F" units that had this issue as well.

Quite right, by the way. I logged into the wall connector and found it had updated to the latest firmware. I’m still not sure I feel that Tesla has maximized the point of a Wi-Fi connection. Why can’t we, for example, access the HPWC over the Internet and disable it (for outside mounts)?

 

[WilliamG]

Unfortunately we don't have Release Notes for the Wall Connector updates, but my Gen3 went from 1.4.4 to 21.18.1 and then to 21.29.1.

It always updated on it's own, but the only (user facing) differences I could notice between all these versions, were that we lost the "Ground Resistance" measurement, we gained the "Access Control" setting, which let's you select if any car can charge on that Wall Connector or just Teslas, and gained the "Power Sharing" feature.

I suspect there must be some thermal throttling and new heat sensor readings for the Revision "F" units that had this issue as well.

By the way, is it normal for the glass front to be a tad loose at the top of the gen 3 HPWC? A little unsettling…

 

[Sophias_dad]

By the way, is it normal for the glass front to be a tad loose at the top of the gen 3 HPWC? A little unsettling…

No, definitely not. Either the slip-in tabs have broken, or they missed where they were supposed to be slipped into during assembly at the factory. The glass is held on by two tabs at the top and two T10 screws at the bottom. Once the screws are removed, the glass is slid DOWN with respect to the rest of the guts of the unit, maybe a half inch. If the glass is properly in place, there is zero play at the top or bottom. The main body of the unit must be removed from the base before you get access to the T10 screws.

There is also some small chance that the glass has separated from the plastic carrier its attached to(since you can't put screws into glass!)

 

[WilliamG]

No, definitely not. Either the slip-in tabs have broken, or they missed where they were supposed to be slipped into during assembly at the factory. The glass is held on by two tabs at the top and two T10 screws at the bottom. Once the screws are removed, the glass is slid DOWN with respect to the rest of the guts of the unit, maybe a half inch. If the glass is properly in place, there is zero play at the top or bottom. The main body of the unit must be removed from the base before you get access to the T10 screws.

There is also some small chance that the glass has separated from the plastic carrier its attached to(since you can't put screws into glass!)

Take a look…

Thoughts?

 

[Sophias_dad]

Take a look…

Thoughts?

Seems loose, but not so bad that it could be that the tabs missed their slots.

 

[WilliamG]

Seems loose, but not so bad that it could be that the tabs missed their slots.

Right. So yours doesn’t move at all in this place? I may just take it off and put a couple of pieces of electrical tape on the casing behind the glass just to stop the movement.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Right. So yours doesn’t move at all in this place? I may just take it off and put a couple of pieces of electrical tape on the casing behind the glass just to stop the movement.

Right, I've had experience with and disassembled two so far, and they both were tight enough they needed decent pressure to slide on or off.

 

[WilliamG]

Right, I've had experience with and disassembled two so far, and they both were tight enough they needed decent pressure to slide on or off.

Interesting. I can’t catch a break with Tesla it seems. At least this should be an easy fix. Thank you for the input.

 

[Mandarin]

Well, this overheating problem came to my WC too. I did not experience that bad current drop from 48A to 24A only down to 30A.

I was checking for a month this behavior. I have checked the latest soft, turned off and turned on the breaker, etc. I even called the electrician who came over and disassembled everything and reassembled again. The problem was still present.

Sometimes overheating errors popped up right after plugging the car. Unplug and plug again procedure was fixing this for a few hours.

I called Tesla and they told me there are some internal problems and they will send a new WC to my home. Not bad.

Regarding face glass, I think it's normal by design because there are no screws on the top just a couple of L shape tabs.

 

[DerbyDave]

Well, this overheating problem came to my WC too. I did not experience that bad current drop from 48A to 24A only down to 30A.

I was checking for a month this behavior. I have checked the latest soft, turned off and turned on the breaker, etc. I even called the electrician who came over and disassembled everything and reassembled again. The problem was still present.

Sometimes overheating errors popped up right after plugging the car. Unplug and plug again procedure was fixing this for a few hours.

I called Tesla and they told me there are some internal problems and they will send a new WC to my home. Not bad.

Regarding face glass, I think it's normal by design because there are no screws on the top just a couple of L shape tabs.

Overheating is a known problem with early Gen 3 connectors. Tesla replaces them under warranty.

 

[Mandarin]

Overheating is a known problem with early Gen 3 connectors. Tesla replaces them under warranty.

Do you know for how long the warranty lasts for WC? I have purchased it over a year ago and I thought it's good for 1 year?

 

[DerbyDave]

"Subject to the exclusions and limitations described below, the Charging Equipment Limited Warranty covers the refund, repair or replacement necessary to remedy any manufacturing defects in Tesla manufactured and supplied Wall Connector that occur under normal use for a period of 48 months, and Mobile Connector or charging adapter that occur under normal use for a period of 12 months from the date of invoice to the customer. Any Tesla connector or adapter included in the initial purchase and delivery of a Tesla vehicle by Tesla is covered under the Basic Vehicle Limited Warranty section of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for 4 years or 50,000 miles (80,000 km), whichever comes first, subject to the terms and conditions of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty."

That being said, they will likely replace it within reason because it was a known defect. I certainly hope so anyway.

 

[DerbyDave]

Open up a service ticket through the app to replace it because it overheats They can see what is happening remotely if it is properly configured for WiFi, and should just send you a new one

 

[Sophias_dad]

Do you know for how long the warranty lasts for WC? I have purchased it over a year ago and I thought it's good for 1 year?

four years. I was surprised, too.

 

[WilliamG]

I had a weird one last week. My new Model S has a weak antenna where clicking the button on the Gen 3 wall connector doesn’t open the charge port consistently. I had the same issue on my Gen 2 with this new car (no issue on the Model 3).

Anyway, I was furiously clicking the button on the Gen 3 while pointing it at the charge port (yes, I know you can use the app or press the flap!), and got the three-flash red lights on the housing. Did this a couple of times (charger not plugged in, of course - just pointed at the charge port). It flashed 3x red, and then went back to green.

Probably a weird edge-case bug, but weird anyway!

 

[CSFTN]

I had a weird one last week. My new Model S has a weak antenna where clicking the button on the Gen 3 wall connector doesn’t open the charge port consistently. I had the same issue on my Gen 2 with this new car (no issue on the Model 3).

Anyway, I was furiously clicking the button on the Gen 3 while pointing it at the charge port (yes, I know you can use the app or press the flap!), and got the three-flash red lights on the housing. Did this a couple of times (charger not plugged in, of course - just pointed at the charge port). It flashed 3x red, and then went back to green.

Probably a weird edge-case bug, but weird anyway!

Used to be an easter egg ... multiple clicks would lead to an explosion of colors. I think that's gone away but maybe just been modified.

 

[WilliamG]

Used to be an easter egg ... multiple clicks would lead to an explosion of colors. I think that's gone away but maybe just been modified.

I’m referring to red lights on the wall connector, not charge port.